carfreak85

Well hello there! I still want a brush guard!

I would do the factory procedure regardless of what gasket is used. It's not as if Fel-Pro knows something about the EA81 that FHI engineers didn't.

Interested in one spare for myself.

The car seems to know when it's hooked up to the SSM and behaves as it should. Stumble persists, but the car seems to need a few extra revolutions to fire off after sitting.

Sprayed down the intake piping while the engine was running to no effect. Did notice the oil pressure sender was wet and was emitting bubbles after I shut it off and was inspecting the intake manifold... Will do some laps this weekend with the SSM2 hooked up.

I sold a non-op, stock RX 3-door with no title and some rust under the battery for $2,200 exactly two years ago. And the buyer paid to have it hauled from Seattle to Coeur d'Alene.

At this point in the vehicle's life, whatever 13-in. tire you can find close to ~22-23-in. diameter is the right size tire. There's only a handful of decent handling, safe options out there (I'm looking at you, re-treaded tires...)

Yes, VINs match. Vehicle has been in our family since ~2004 (or two sets of HGs ). Plain old fixed steel cam gears on this mill, no tumble generator valves. I'm going to try some starter fluid on the intake system today.

It's a USDM 1999 with a non-AVCS EJ253 SOHC engine (build plate on strut tower confirms -253 engine). IACV may be my next target.

Cleaning the MAF did nothing.

Knock sensor is OEM and isn't any older than a few years (replaced last HG go-round). Going to clean the MAF and check for vacuum leaks in the inlet system this afternoon.

1999 automatic EJ253. Plugs (NGK), wires (OEM) and front oxygen sensor (OEM) replaced in the last two years. For many years we've had what I can best describe as a tiny "hiccup" when pulling away from a stop. Used to do it immediately after shifting into 2nd gear, and was hardly noticeable to anyone but myself. Sometimes it will take a few extra revolutions compared to "normal" to start the engine. It's gradually become worse, to the point of having multiple misfires when tipping into the throttle while pulling away from a stop. Full throttle seems to bypass the problem. The check engine lamp has never illuminated during or after one of these misfire events. Based on research here and on SubaruForester.org I replaced the front oxygen sensor last week, and while the problem has improved a little bit, it's still there and still annoying. What am I missing here? Need to clean/replace the MAF sensor? Rear oxygen sensor?

Just looked in the 90-94 parts catalog. 22100AA440 - Distributor assembly, applies to all models 3-door/sedan/SW/TW both turbo and N/A.

I could be mistaken, but the ignition control module might be shared with MPFI/SPFI engines as well.

Grab a long screw driver, put the handle against your ear and start touching the engine all over to find where the knock is coming from. I have a few running EA81T longblocks, if you need a replacement.

Driver's side lower radiator hose is unique to the AT radiator as well.

Yes, @Suber Dave is still selling the axle parts. If you don't hear from him I can shoot him a text.

Are you a big Sam Firstenberg fan, or does the username reference something else?

I thought I read an End Wrench article or a TSB at one point that discussed the AWD-engagement and Slope Control implementation on Phase 2 4EAT transmissions. As I recall, you could take the TCU from a 2003 AT and install it on the earlier Phase 2 4EATs to take advantage of the calibration improvements. I tried finding that link, but it has been a long time and End Wrench articles aren't as easily found as they once were. I sourced a 2003 TCU and installed it in our '99 Forester, but threw a CEL for "AT Communication Error," or something like that. Old TCU was reinstalled and the code cleared. Am I remembering a fever dream, or was this actually a thing at one point?

I could be convinced to sell my one remaining BNIB OEM EA81 front strut. Shoot me a PM.

Oil drain hose is a bear to replace. IDK if you could do it with everything still in place (from below, obviously) but you would need tiny hands. I replaced mine when I was swapping 5MTs, so everything was already out of the way, but it still wasn't "oil change easy."

Sounds like the timing chain cover has sprung a leak. I'm not sure how expensive it is to repair, but based on the number of bolts, it will require a full front-of-engine teardown. @GeneralDisorder or @idosubaru might have some other pointers...

I think it's either the lower radiator hose, or the small angled hoses connecting the water pump to the oil cooler. Coolant scuzz is building up in that area, but not fast enough to show a definite leak, or to have wisps of steam to trace back. Just the occasional whiff of coolant and the aforementioned scuzz on the hoses.

While dealing with the replacement of our failed 4EAT I addressed a few oil leaks that had developed on the remaining original seals on the back of the engine. Should have done it from the start, but oh well. New rear main seal installed with a bolt-down tool vs. a PVC pipe fitting. New DS rear cam seal and the DS wrist pin access O-ring. Still chasing a coolant leak off engine, likely from the oil cooler or lower hose, but too cold and slushy to work outdoors on that for now.

OK, took the Forester to our local ski hill and it shifts and moves the car just fine. The MPT clutch pack is just as FWD-y as the last transmission, so the basket is obviously worn. I'd like to address that at some point, but will probably hold off until Spring, since this is our ski car/dog taxi. But hey, at least it's back on the road!