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carfreak85

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Everything posted by carfreak85

  1. carfreak85
    Cleaning the MAF did nothing.
  2. carfreak85
    Knock sensor is OEM and isn't any older than a few years (replaced last HG go-round). Going to clean the MAF and check for vacuum leaks in the inlet system this afternoon.
  3. carfreak85
    1999 automatic EJ253. Plugs (NGK), wires (OEM) and front oxygen sensor (OEM) replaced in the last two years. For many years we've had what I can best describe as a tiny "hiccup" when pulling away from a stop. Used to do it immediately after shifting into 2nd gear, and was hardly noticeable to anyone but myself. Sometimes it will take a few extra revolutions compared to "normal" to start the engine. It's gradually become worse, to the point of having multiple misfires when tipping into the throttle while pulling away from a stop. Full throttle seems to bypass the problem. The check engine lamp has never illuminated during or after one of these misfire events. Based on research here and on SubaruForester.org I replaced the front oxygen sensor last week, and while the problem has improved a little bit, it's still there and still annoying. What am I missing here? Need to clean/replace the MAF sensor? Rear oxygen sensor?
  4. carfreak85
    Just looked in the 90-94 parts catalog. 22100AA440 - Distributor assembly, applies to all models 3-door/sedan/SW/TW both turbo and N/A.
  5. carfreak85
    I could be mistaken, but the ignition control module might be shared with MPFI/SPFI engines as well.
  6. carfreak85
    Grab a long screw driver, put the handle against your ear and start touching the engine all over to find where the knock is coming from. I have a few running EA81T longblocks, if you need a replacement.
  7. carfreak85
    Driver's side lower radiator hose is unique to the AT radiator as well.
  8. carfreak85
    Yes, @Suber Dave is still selling the axle parts. If you don't hear from him I can shoot him a text.
  9. carfreak85
    Are you a big Sam Firstenberg fan, or does the username reference something else?
  10. carfreak85
    I thought I read an End Wrench article or a TSB at one point that discussed the AWD-engagement and Slope Control implementation on Phase 2 4EAT transmissions. As I recall, you could take the TCU from a 2003 AT and install it on the earlier Phase 2 4EATs to take advantage of the calibration improvements. I tried finding that link, but it has been a long time and End Wrench articles aren't as easily found as they once were. I sourced a 2003 TCU and installed it in our '99 Forester, but threw a CEL for "AT Communication Error," or something like that. Old TCU was reinstalled and the code cleared. Am I remembering a fever dream, or was this actually a thing at one point?
  11. carfreak85
    I could be convinced to sell my one remaining BNIB OEM EA81 front strut. Shoot me a PM.
  12. carfreak85
    Oil drain hose is a bear to replace. IDK if you could do it with everything still in place (from below, obviously) but you would need tiny hands. I replaced mine when I was swapping 5MTs, so everything was already out of the way, but it still wasn't "oil change easy."
  13. carfreak85
    Sounds like the timing chain cover has sprung a leak. I'm not sure how expensive it is to repair, but based on the number of bolts, it will require a full front-of-engine teardown. @GeneralDisorder or @idosubaru might have some other pointers...
  14. carfreak85
    I think it's either the lower radiator hose, or the small angled hoses connecting the water pump to the oil cooler. Coolant scuzz is building up in that area, but not fast enough to show a definite leak, or to have wisps of steam to trace back. Just the occasional whiff of coolant and the aforementioned scuzz on the hoses.
  15. carfreak85
    While dealing with the replacement of our failed 4EAT I addressed a few oil leaks that had developed on the remaining original seals on the back of the engine. Should have done it from the start, but oh well. New rear main seal installed with a bolt-down tool vs. a PVC pipe fitting. New DS rear cam seal and the DS wrist pin access O-ring. Still chasing a coolant leak off engine, likely from the oil cooler or lower hose, but too cold and slushy to work outdoors on that for now.
  16. carfreak85
    OK, took the Forester to our local ski hill and it shifts and moves the car just fine. The MPT clutch pack is just as FWD-y as the last transmission, so the basket is obviously worn. I'd like to address that at some point, but will probably hold off until Spring, since this is our ski car/dog taxi. But hey, at least it's back on the road!
  17. carfreak85
    Not really interested in tearing into the original transmission, I'd rather get my core refunded and they don't accept disassembled components. Might zip off the oil pan for a peek, but probably won't. If this reman transmission fails, or makes me nervous at all during the next 12 months, I've got the warranty to go back and try again. Sounded good on the initial test drive back to my place. It did slip once pulling onto the main, steep, uphill road, but that was before the ATF was topped off and it hasn't done it again since. Only have maybe 8 miles on the thing because we were out of town and I didn't want the test drive to leave us stranded 150 miles from home. Updates to come once we've got some more road miles.
  18. carfreak85
    Double post.
  19. carfreak85
    Old transmission has been removed, new is being cleaned and inspected. Waiting on a few parts as there were a couple oil leaks from the back side of the engine.
  20. carfreak85
    Don't use an impact driver on the oil pump, you'll likely break it, then you're engine will be dead in the water. Find an appropriately sized phillips SOCKET, and use a breaker bar to apply steady torque while pushing the bit down into the fastener. Maybe use a dab of valve lapping compound to add bite, since you're starting to strip out the fastener.
  21. carfreak85
    The donor looked pretty clean, no obvious accident damage. I have to guess the HGs/radiator went bad and the owner chose to replace it due to an inflated quote for the work? We ponied up for the extra 12-month warranty, so if this reman transmission craps out I'll have another roll of the dice. Thankfully this isn't a primary vehicle.
  22. carfreak85
    Went to the junkyard yesterday and found a Forester with a Subaru Remanufactured transmission (tag glued to the top of the bellhousing). Are there any parts I should replace or inspect prior to installing this transmission (besides the fluid filter)? Input shaft seal, O-ring on the input shaft?
  23. carfreak85
    Hmmm, hard to say. In the video, the transmission is in FWD mode, so the driveline is out of the equation. I think it's a 1:1 ratio, or close to that, but I'll have to try it again tomorrow.
  24. carfreak85
    I was getting ready for a road trip last month and about 45 minutes after I left our caravan stopped for a photo opp. When we got back on the road I noticed what I thought might be rod knock, but it would only make noise under load, and was related to wheel speed. I did some research, checked my wheel bearings and axles, and they checked out fine (although the DOJs for the front diff were loose, I could wiggle them by hand). So I jacked up the front of the car, put the fuse in the FWD slot and put the transmission in gear. The ratcheting sound doesn't seem to be coming from the bellhousing or front diff, but sounds like it's coming from the bowels of the transmission, above the oil pan. Is my transmission trash? Is this a common failure? The Forester has almost 250k miles on it. If the trans *IS* toast, what's the preferred method of finding a healthy replacement? @GeneralDisorder @idosubaru
  25. carfreak85
    Sender or the gauge could also be on the way out...
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