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carfreak85

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Everything posted by carfreak85

  1. carfreak85
    Not really interested in tearing into the original transmission, I'd rather get my core refunded and they don't accept disassembled components. Might zip off the oil pan for a peek, but probably won't. If this reman transmission fails, or makes me nervous at all during the next 12 months, I've got the warranty to go back and try again. Sounded good on the initial test drive back to my place. It did slip once pulling onto the main, steep, uphill road, but that was before the ATF was topped off and it hasn't done it again since. Only have maybe 8 miles on the thing because we were out of town and I didn't want the test drive to leave us stranded 150 miles from home. Updates to come once we've got some more road miles.
  2. carfreak85
    Double post.
  3. carfreak85
    Old transmission has been removed, new is being cleaned and inspected. Waiting on a few parts as there were a couple oil leaks from the back side of the engine.
  4. carfreak85
    Don't use an impact driver on the oil pump, you'll likely break it, then you're engine will be dead in the water. Find an appropriately sized phillips SOCKET, and use a breaker bar to apply steady torque while pushing the bit down into the fastener. Maybe use a dab of valve lapping compound to add bite, since you're starting to strip out the fastener.
  5. carfreak85
    The donor looked pretty clean, no obvious accident damage. I have to guess the HGs/radiator went bad and the owner chose to replace it due to an inflated quote for the work? We ponied up for the extra 12-month warranty, so if this reman transmission craps out I'll have another roll of the dice. Thankfully this isn't a primary vehicle.
  6. carfreak85
    Went to the junkyard yesterday and found a Forester with a Subaru Remanufactured transmission (tag glued to the top of the bellhousing). Are there any parts I should replace or inspect prior to installing this transmission (besides the fluid filter)? Input shaft seal, O-ring on the input shaft?
  7. carfreak85
    Hmmm, hard to say. In the video, the transmission is in FWD mode, so the driveline is out of the equation. I think it's a 1:1 ratio, or close to that, but I'll have to try it again tomorrow.
  8. carfreak85
    I was getting ready for a road trip last month and about 45 minutes after I left our caravan stopped for a photo opp. When we got back on the road I noticed what I thought might be rod knock, but it would only make noise under load, and was related to wheel speed. I did some research, checked my wheel bearings and axles, and they checked out fine (although the DOJs for the front diff were loose, I could wiggle them by hand). So I jacked up the front of the car, put the fuse in the FWD slot and put the transmission in gear. The ratcheting sound doesn't seem to be coming from the bellhousing or front diff, but sounds like it's coming from the bowels of the transmission, above the oil pan. Is my transmission trash? Is this a common failure? The Forester has almost 250k miles on it. If the trans *IS* toast, what's the preferred method of finding a healthy replacement? @GeneralDisorder @idosubaru
  9. carfreak85
    Sender or the gauge could also be on the way out...
  10. carfreak85
    RXs and XT6s both have EJ-sized rear differential bushings.
  11. carfreak85
    I do. Front fenders and valance, rear hatch, probably a windshield, etc. Got a list of the parts you have?
  12. carfreak85
    I've bought SuperPro bushings off eBay and directly from SuperPro USA.
  13. carfreak85
    I started to make it a habit to pre-fill the oil filter during oil changes. I'm reconsidering that habit, as I was told by the good folks at KillerB Motorsports that this can actually delay the priming of the system. I hadn't noticed an issue, but when people smarter than me say something like that, I tend to pay attention.
  14. carfreak85
    Originally, it was a one-key vehicle, but often they'll have two keys by this point in time.
  15. carfreak85
  16. carfreak85
    NECRO-BUMP! I'd wager the SF Forester is the king of cheap off-road Subarus these days.
  17. carfreak85
    It depends on how the Duty-C solenoid is deployed. IIRC some years ground the circuit to engage AWD, other years apply voltage to engage AWD. Which failure mode you get may depend on how your AWD is implemented. My car doesn't have torque bind in tight corners, but the rear wheels seem to have a delayed engagement, almost a rubber band effect in snow. If I'm anticipating needing AWD I have learned to "pre-condition" the transmission to shake the clutch packs loose, but if you're simply driving along in the snow and decide to punch the throttle, it'll just spin the front tires until you release the accelerator, then AWD engages with a loud BANG!
  18. carfreak85
    Best to replace the clutch pack, and the drums as a set? Our '99 Forester has a slow-to-engage AWD, and while I'm not at all opposed to a wholesale R&R of the RWD transfer assembly, if you say it's a waste of money, I won't bother buying the clutch pack (if they're still available, that is...).
  19. carfreak85
    I'll try to summarize my thoughts to keep this succinct... As mentioned, this has been discussed and attempted for decades. Back in the early 2000s there was a crew of guys on this forum pushing the EA82T. At that time the turbo EJ was still pretty new to the U.S. and the cost of entry was too high for most of us cheapskates. Not many people had the gumption to invest in an unknown, undocumented EJ swap. People kept pouring time, money and ideas into the EA82T and since I was keen to replicate their success on my EA81T, I paid close attention. From memory, not one of those cars has survived today and is still running. Contrast that to the first few EJ-swapped EA82s and they're still out there. Hell, my RX-RA that @suberdave built back in ~2005 is still on the road with the same engine that was originally swapped into it 16 years and three owners ago. Try making 260 chp for 16 years on an EA82T... Hasn't been done yet, probably won't happen until somebody creates new, redesigned head castings. The bottom end should hold up to quite a bit of abuse, but the pistons and heads crack, HGs aren't up to the task and the stock ECU is closer to an Atari than smartphone. To do what you're describing and keep the engine reliable (we're taking cost of acquisition/hard parts/labor/machining/and ECU tuning labor) you're probably looking at a $10,000 investment. The custom parts will be more expensive because they'll all be one-off parts. You'll want to pay someone to tune it, since there are no base maps for this engine. Now, an EJ? If you've got the coin you can bolt in 300 chp, leave it stock and be able to enjoy it for the next 16 years vs. the next 16 days (until the EA82T blows up...).
  20. carfreak85
    This is specifically about EJ MAFs, but the same principles apply to any 'OEM vs. aftermarket' electronic component discussion.
  21. carfreak85
    Still available from the dealership.
  22. carfreak85
    Interested to see what you've got in the works...
  23. carfreak85
    A couple thoughts on this: Those "dead Subarus on I-70..." Are those newer, well-maintained vehicles, or are they older 90's models? I'd wager they "died" from having older radiators that crack the plastic end tanks or a failed thermostat when flogged in extreme conditions (steep grades, high loads, high ambient temps, A/C usage, etc.). Radiators are a wear item. My WRX's radiator popped at 120k miles and we JUST replaced a cracked radiator in my dad's STI at 75k miles. These cars are durability tested by Subaru during summer in Death Valley, so they SHOULD have no problem climbing Eisenhower Pass in summer with the A/C on. You need to inspect all these components to ensure they're working properly. A dirt-filled or gravel-pelted A/C condenser will restrict airflow to the radiator, so put eyeballs on that, as well as the radiator. Make sure BOTH radiator fans come on. Ensure your cooling system is properly burped (Front end off the ground as high as you can safely get it and while the engine is running, massaging the radiator hoses until the thermostat opens and no more bubbles are seen in the radiator top tank.) If you're dead set on upgrading the radiator for piece of mind, buy an aluminum "racing" radiator for an MT, and add an external, auxiliary transmission cooler. Easy-peasy done.
  24. carfreak85
    I'd say anywhere between $1,000 to $3,000, based on the couple sales of RXs I've seen in the last two years. The lack of originality will knock it down, depending on who is buying it.
  25. carfreak85
    Cute pup. Its head shape looks similar to our 50 lb lab/whippet mix.
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