carfreak85

I'm pretty sure the Gen 1 uses a single 4x6" speaker in the dashboard that uses a pretty standard mounting pattern.

I have replaced the dash speakers in two EA81s using different sized speakers in each. My wagon has 4" round speakers with adapters to mount to the OEM speaker locations. On my old EA81 hatch, I redrilled the frame on some 4x6" speakers to match the factory mounts. I much preferred the sound quality produced by the 4x6s.

This is a wonderful service! Thank you for offering it to our community!

Only for the front wipers. If you have/want intermittent rear wipers, the module is separate and mounted in the rear (on mk. 1.5 Foresters, at least).

I wanted to convert my wife's 1999 Forester to have an intermittent rear wiper. The timer for the rear wiper is a separate module and on the later Foresters it is located behind the passenger's side cargo area panel. You'll need the adjustable intermittent switch, wiring pigtails and the timer module. The front wiper intermittent timer is located in the wiper switch, so all you'd need to convert an older Legacy/etc. would be to upgrade to an intermittent wiper switch.

Did the wipers/turn signals work and are the combination switch still available?

front wipers or rear? The fronts are in the combination switch, rear is a separate module mounted in the rear.

I'm more concerened with being able to disassemble and reassemble the CV. Sounds like removing the tripod from the CV cup is a force-fit and has to be hammered apart, unlike the DOJs that can be easily disassembled.

Brake cleaner doesn't leave any residue, but solvents like gasoline and diesel fuels will.

Has anyone had success re-greasing and booting the CV joints (NOT the DOJs)? I'd like to get in there and have the same grease in both ends of the axle, but it sounds like the CV isn't REALLY serviceable?

This is what I use when rebuilding CVs and DOJs.

Welcome back! I'm surprised the Mods weren't able to salvage your old account, that's really too bad.

I would stay away from this type of build. Yes, it is a path that many folks have taken, but just putting the car back to stock or going with a 2.1L stoker engine are better/simpler options. I would do a lot of reading before you spend any money. Connect with a local Subaru engine builder and a trusted tuner and discuss your goals with them.

I would agree.

I bought a set of RS six-spoke wheels last year that came with a good set of Bridgestone Blizzak WS70 snow tires. I'll be running those on my WRX this winter.

DO you have any of the optional front seat center arm rests? Also looking for straight, rust free front sheet metal and maybe a wagon hatch.

Just wanted to check back in and provide a follow up on our experience. Things are going great after the repair, no more oil leaks, burning oil smell or other unexpected issues. I had originally thought we still had an oil leak because the car still smelled of oil once it was hot, but a good round of brake-clean seems to have removed the remaining oil from the exhaust/block/etc. Our upper radiator hose had one of the clamps tightened while slightly askew (thanks Dad) which caused a coolant smell when hot. Took care of that and no more smell. The jury is still out on loosing coolant, but if the overflow tank doesn't lose any water this week while the wife drives around, we'll call that one done too. The biggest difference I've noticed is on cold starts. The car used to have some pretty noticeable piston slap that would take a minute or two of driving to get warm enough to make it go away. After replacing all the PCV hoses/valve/plastic tee as well as the oil separator plate, the slapping noise is almost gone on cold starts. Instead of sounding like a diesel, our car sounds like a Subaru again! The car does still use some oil (not enough to see out the tail pipe) but even the oil consumption seems to have let up a little over the last 1,500-2,000 miles. I think I'll be changing over to the H6 oil filters during the next oil change, just to gain that little bit of extra oil capacity. Since these engines are so hard on the oil, I figure every little bit will help and once this car is retired from DD duty for the wife, it will get an STI oil pan and start doing some offroading.

Give SuperPro USA a phone call, they'll sort you out.

Nope, I haven't heard from him in a long while.

It's not so much a brand that you can point to, but it takes some research. Basically you need to look at oil analysis for a variety of oils and determine which oil has the best additive package for your engine needs. Flat tappet and older style "high" friction valvetrains are going to want a lot of anti-wear additives, ZDDP, molybdenum, etc. www.bobistheoilguy.com has a fantastic amount of knowledge and recourses. For me personally, in my EJ-turbo engines I run Rotella T6 (because its cheap and sold everywhere). I haven't been driving my old school Subarus enough to require an oil change, thus, I do not yet have a preferred brand of oil for them.

It's not a matter of diff strength, the RWD transfer gears will strip out before anything else fails (besides the rear wheel bearings).

In 2008 I converted my EA81T wagon to RWD. It already had the stronger EA82 5-speed transmission swapped in. I also have a clutch type rear LSD and 205/60/13 Yokohama A048 tires. I knew the risks going into the conversion and so I generally only did "RWD" activities in the wet/snow/dirt or other low traction situations. By babying the car I was able to get the RWD conversion to last about four years. But the whole point of the RWD conversion is to have fun, right? Burnouts, doughnuts, drifting, etc. The rear wheel drive system on these cars was only ever meant to hold 40 horsepower or so. Once you direct the engine's full torque to the rear, the RWD transfer gears become a weak link and will shear teeth like its going out of style. You'll end up stranded with a ruined transmission, a non-op Subaru, worn out rear wheel bearings (because they're the wrong style for sliding sideways) and an empty pocket. (But it is fun while it lasts!)

Yes, it will work. No, it won't last very long and that poor transmission will be dead when you're finished with it. (Ask me how I know...)

What year is your brat? I might have an EA81 cowl panel.

I disagree with this wholeheartedly. Dino oil is a thing of the past unless your engine is bleeding oil. While many modern synthetic oils are not going to play nice in an older engine, a properly formulated synthetic will run circles around any dino oil.