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carfreak85

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Everything posted by carfreak85

  1. carfreak85
    Well the EA81T cable is already obsolete, but good call on the clutch cables...
  2. carfreak85
    Yeah, Skip, what happened to that guy?! I know one of the really active members with the Mega Squirted EA82T gen 1 BRAT passed away, can't remember his board name...
  3. carfreak85
    What should we start hording next, before it becomes obsolete?
  4. carfreak85
    I already have both of you guys as "saved sellers."
  5. carfreak85
    I ran into Richie at the last WCSS, I don't know how often he checks in, try looking him up. I would suggest calling his shop, but as I'm up in the Seattle area, I don't have the name committed to memory.
  6. carfreak85
    I bought a tube of the Dow Corning lube, do you use it on anything but the inside lip of the seals? Any thoughts on cleaning the cylinder heads/block after lapping?
  7. carfreak85
    I used a medium flat blade inserted into one of the Leslie tool's gouge marks in the seal and careful but firm prying in a few different parts of the seal. It finally creaked and started backing out of the block, no damage that I can tell. I have a PVC pipe coupler to install the new seal and I know I need to be concerned with the install depth. Any other tips? Assembly lube on the inside lip of the seal for sure, but should I install the seal with a dry outer surface? How do the cam seals compare to the crank seals? I've heard they're pretty easy to mess up...
  8. carfreak85
    Ok, any advice on this would be helpful: I'm having a devil of a time getting the rear main seal out. I read that you don't need to touch it unless it's leaking, but with 207k+ on this engine, I figured I might as well. After buying the Leslie tool and trying about 15 times, I'm basically just destroying the seal without actually getting it to move at all. Front main came out without issues, but it almost feels like the seal is glued/staked in place, but I don't see any adhesive residue. I haven't touched the cam seals yet, but the one I peeked at does have some reddish sealant (maybe Loctite seal glue?) around the outside seal surface. Any tips for getting the rear main seal out? Buy a second Leslie tool and use both at the same time 180* apart? Light the whole thing on fire and pray to the gods of Fuji? Halp!
  9. carfreak85
    Kiddo, I know exactly what the Gambler is. Were I building a car for it, it still would not have a pod filter poking out the center of the hood. Personal preference, just like your butthole reference, I suppose. I build my vehicles based on sound design and engineering practices and I err towards a sleeper/Q-ship style build vs. building a "Pep Boys Clearance Section Special Edition" Vape-Mobile. Whatever. Build it your way, I'm not paying for it. The forester looks nice, my wife would be jealous. Have fun with your Loyale build.
  10. carfreak85
    It really doesn't matter to me how many "likes" a car has or how many people have photos of it on their phones. Intakes through the middle of the hood are an automatic boner-killer... Kudos to you for starting with a junker, a great looking one at that. Thank you for leaving the nice ones for the enthusiasts.
  11. carfreak85
    I know Richie has at least one down in PDX, maybe two?
  12. carfreak85
    I'm just afraid to screw something up without reading the actual procedure. I was hoping someone with a bit more access would have the procedure. Lets hope I still have some junk cylinder heads sitting around that I can experiment on.
  13. carfreak85
    @templeoffuji on Instagram.
  14. carfreak85
    I'm ok with the rusty ones getting trashed, but when I see a rust free one getting chopped up, I get pretty resentful.
  15. carfreak85
    @GeneralDisorder Any chance you have the EndWrench block resurfacing procedure handy?
  16. carfreak85
    Poor, poor loyale. That looked like a clean one too...
  17. carfreak85
    Any of the tires you mention will most likely fit on a factory stock vehicle. Lowering may cause issues with fender clearance. I've run the 185/70/13 and 205/60/13 and neither rub, stock height, or lowered on my EA81.
  18. carfreak85
    That's the wheel bearing article, not the head gasket article. I saved that one already!
  19. carfreak85
    @GeneralDisorder Would that be the "Classic" or "Improved" blend?
  20. carfreak85
    Does anyone have the End Wrench article or Subaru TIB/TSB that outlines the HG procedure? Just want to make sure I'm not missing any steps... @GeneralDisorder@idosubaru@Gloyale
  21. carfreak85
    XT6 rear hubs are the only trivial component to find, you can use EJ stuff for the front. Custom rear hubs is the alternative, and there have been several runs of reproductions made to date.
  22. carfreak85
    Adapters are a really poor way to change your lug pattern and will put extra force on your 30 year old wheel bearings, causing them to fail sooner. Do a proper 5-lug swap if wheels are that important to you.
  23. carfreak85
    The fuel filler neck in the passenger's rear wheel well can rust through, so check for that!
  24. carfreak85
    @GeneralDisorder What oil do you recommend for a high mileage Ej253 that hasn't been re-ringed?
  25. carfreak85
    Love, love, LOVE this exhaust on my bugeye!
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