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carfreak85

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Everything posted by carfreak85

  1. I'm about 85% sure that is was. Considering the SVX was a 90's Japanese halo car, it wouldn't surprise me in the least if they went above and beyond. Heck, they patented a new glass vacuum forming process during the development of the SVX, a plastic fuel tank seems like cake walk...
  2. All I have to say about this topic is if you decide to replace the sealed beam lamps with an aftermarket, non-sealed beam lamp, please do some research on night lighting before you buy! http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/tech.html
  3. Heck, I'll buy any remaining sets that you have, shoot me the total.
  4. Well goes to show how much I know about Hondas these days...
  5. CRXs aren't that hard to find, I would just hold out for a used replacement panel...
  6. I'll probably be interested in a set, as well as the drawings for the part!
  7. My parts guy was trying to be helpful and auto-corrected my order to the 633 gaskets, thankfully the 642s were in stock and the same price! I will inspect the bolts and reuse, if acceptable.
  8. When I get around to installing a trans cooler on our forester I plan to plumb it in AFTER the OEM radiator heat exchanger. If we convert to an aluminum radiator however, we will lose the factory cooler anyway.
  9. So @GeneralDisorder at this point should we just spring for the updated pistons w/ new rings or ship my shortblock to you for knurling/re-ring, find a new shortblock and just toss that in?
  10. GD, when I looked up the oil pump part number for this chassis it was listed as a 10mm pump, but I will double check once the timing covers come off. Sidenote, as we tear into the car to get the engine out I noticed this when I pulled the PCV assembly. Not quite 100% blocked in any of the PCV hoses, but getting darn close! My first impression is that there's not much I can do to avoid this besides running a synthetic oil, but what do the experts think of this? @Gloyale@idosubaru @GeneralDisorder
  11. @GeneralDisorder Should we be replacing/resealing the oil pump? Check the assembly bolts? Do we need to change the oil pickup to use the STI oil pan?
  12. Well after some further inspections it looks like the HGs ARE leaking onto our driveway, which is not OK and requires the HG be replaced. SO, does anyone have any tips or tricks of the trade while I'm in there? I think we're going to skip the knurled pistons, due to time constraints (we have about a week to turn this around) and my lack of confidence to do it myself.
  13. So I got another chance to climb under the Forester yesterday. The back of the flex plate and torque converter look dry. The area around the cam seals/timing belt covers appear to be dry. The passenger's side head is bone dry, except for a very minor weeping along the HG at the front end of the bottom of the head casting. The driver's side looks to be leaking oil. There is oil along the length of the HG on the bottom of the head, dripping down the exhaust flange and studs, flowing backwards and soaking the crossmember, skid plate and the elbow of the header, near the transmission. The leak hasn't been leaving noticeable drips on our driveway, but when I removed the skid plate, there were some drops at the trailing edge that looked ready to drip. So, should I just replace the timing belt and wait for the driver's side gasket to start leaking coolant externally before I replace the HG?
  14. As far as USDM EA82 cars go, it seems like anything could be spec'ed with a limited slip, from a DL sedan up to an XT6.
  15. I cannot help with this issue, but a Subaru collector you say?... Go on...
  16. Pull the dang battery out of the car if you're afraid of it being stolen....
  17. Who me? I'm currently pushing the stock 14 psi on my EJ20G, soon to be up to 18 psi. Do all your hard pipes have a lip or bead? If not, that's your problem. Once adequately tightened it is basically impossible to blow a worm gear clamp off a properly beaded hard pipe. Are you running 36 psi or a compound charger setup? T-bolt clamps are nice, but they can unevenly clamp around the diameter of the hose, they're heavier, more expensive. Run them if you want (I do on the above set up) but it's honestly an unnecessary expense.
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