carfreak85

Yes to all of this. Sound fluid dynamic principals at play here. I have yet to do this on my RX-RA, but I did notice a difference in cooling by reinstalling the factory skid plate. The splash guards on the sides of the engine bay help as well (just look at the size of the undertray on any modern car). Another step you could take would be to fill the gaps between the radiator and the sheet metal it attaches to with foam. This will keep the airflow from going around the radiator instead of through it.

I'll start off by saying that wheel adapters are a Band-Aid type fix, they will increase your scrub radius, put more stress on your wheel bearings and if not well designed/machined can cause balance issues at speed. That said, any local machine shop can whip these up, given a decent set of measurements to work with.

Gah, I suppose I'll have to spring for a couple pairs of these (No pun intended...).

Don't pour anything except coolant, water or "water wetter" type additives. "Stop Leak" type products should be called Stop Flow instead...

We subscribe to the "run it hard" break-in theory. That doesn't mean WOT pulls from the first start up, but we did this method on our last rebuild and it has proven to not use a drop of oil in the last 50k+ miles: Fill brand new engine with either break-in-specific oil or cheap 30w dino oil. Start, idle and check for leaks, drips, new engine type stuff. (optional, stop engine, change oil & filter, cheap dino 30w or break-in specific) Take car for a drive along a route with as much change in elevation as possible, varying throttle positions and engine speed. There is no need for WOT or redline shifting, but DO NOT baby the engine. If its turbocharged, try to stay out of boost, but get as close as you can to 0 in/hg and psi as possible. If N/A, half to 3/4 throttle is acceptable. When you have the opportunity to engine brake from medium high rpm, take it! Use engine braking as much as you can during your break-in test drive. (optional, stop engine, change oil & filter, cheap dino 30w or oil of your choice) Drive normally varying engine speed and throttle position (avoid WOT and high gear, high throttle situations) for the next 1,000-3,000 miles. Change oil & filter. Now you're good to go!

CZNY, that tool looks great! DaveT, thank you!

Hey DaveT, I sent your drawing to a friend to have him cut it for me and he asked what the thickness of the back wall would be, since it's not on the drawing. Thanks!

Failing your local hardware store, I'd be looking at McMaster-Carr, Grainger, etc.

So you were able to bolt in an EA81 crossemember onto your EA82, but that the new part doesn't support anything? That would be pretty cool, a low buck chassis stiffener!

Pics of the damage? This can probably still be saved...

That would certainly hinder oil drain back to the pan, which is an issue in all Subaru engines.

Good looking out! I was told that the vehicle's check engine lamp was wired into the engine harness, so should light when there is a code. I have not seen it illuminate, but I've not asked the ECU if it has any stored codes. Something to do tonight, I guess. Good looking out on the cam sensor harness, I may just go throw some shielding on that harness spur, just for piece of mind. The wiring on the car was done by SuberDave and is actually pretty solid for being one of the first EJ-swaps in North America.

We don't recommend our customers use anything to clean/protect the dashboard except for mild soap and water. I work for an OEM.

Did you ever find a Superpro application for the XT6 front inner control arm bushing?

Pretty certain I don't have boost creep, I haven't noticed it creeping up during a pull, at either pressure. I should double check that again after I gap the plugs. Stock NGKs are platinum, heat range 6. I went with NGK iridium, heat range 7.

Sort of off topic, but since we're on the subject: I just completed the EJ205 coil pack conversion on the EJ20G, but they might be STI coils in which case the boots are too short. It's also been suggested by SuberDave and others that I re-gap my plugs down to a maximum of 0.030 in. Stock boost is 14 psi on the V1 WRX Type RA ECU, I have the electronic boost controller's low boost setting dialed in to 10 psi and the high boost set at 14 psi. The engine cuts out at both boost levels. Sounds like I'll be making a trip down to you once I get an ESL board!

I've got a RobTune'd ECU that I'm sitting on while I work through a high load/high rpm cutout issue, but I've been eyeing the ESL board. Who tunes your ESLs? I worry about buying a "standalone" that nobody has worked with before and having to pay for someone to teach themselves on my car...

Fixed it for you... (Currently running an electronic BCS on my V1 WRX swapped RX without issue, but at or below stock boost, for the time being.)

760123220, iirc.

Only with the brown interiors. The blue covers have the opposite problem, only the LH part number is still active...

Would you also mind looking into the hardtop rear window seals at Safelite? I'm going to need one of those too...

Safelite in the US has these gaskets and these are the standard EA81 windshield gaskets?

Same here. Just tried to reorder a smaller quantity. I have left over RH parts, if someone is willing to trade for some NOS LH parts.

My local dealer says the LH side, the -200 P/N is NLA, both in person and via their online portal. They still show as available online, so I tried placing a web order, only to have my order cancelled. I just placed an order from the link above, so we'll see if they cancel this one too.

I regret not spending more time at the show or sharing a brew with you Paul, maybe on my next trip East!