carfreak85

That's an oxygen sensor, not a single EA-series engine was ever equipped with an EGT. In fact, I don't think a single USDM Subaru ever had an EGT until the 2002 WRX's EJ205.

If the vehicle wasn't offered from the factory with some sort of two-tone look, my personal opinion is to follow that template. If I were doing a BRAT, I'd be looking at the white/orange one SoA owns, and recreate that color scheme with my accent color of choice.

SOHC EJ253, 4EAT. On the third pair of HGs, but the last set is EJ257 MLS gaskets and the first HG repair that wasn't done at the dealership.

1999.

Just fixed our rattles. Parts still available, and cheap!

There are little clips that need to be removed to get the plug off the injector. Use a small pick (And a magnet!) to remove the safety clip.

Our SF Forester has 243k miles on it and is fairly reliable.

Shouldn't take too long in the Florida sun. Do it over a weekend, or source a spare subframe?

You are correct lonstorm66, I just popped outside to look at the twins and, while the difference is less than a half inch, you are correct. The clamping surface in the stock mount IS the lowest point of the mount, where the camber plate doesn't sit quite as far below the strut tower. My statement stands for OEM EJ front strut mounts, but OEM EA82 front strut mounts are indeed different.

Got it. Just fill it with 3M Window-Weld.

Jackman was an aftermarket company that had zero affiliation with Subaru of America. They made wheels for all sorts of 4x4s back in the day. We're talking OEM, Subaru-sourced wheels in this thread.

I'm still not clear what bushing we're discussion here...

Not in the United States. None of the factory photos, or official documentation that I've seen shows ANY EA81 chassis having factory 14 -in. wheels.

This style of camber plate RAISES the front of the car. The OEM strut mounts protrude up into the engine bay, while these plates are flat and actually don't protrude into the engine bay at all.

End up actually reducing the output of said bulb, since only blue spectrum can escape the blue tinted glass globe. Some bulbs, like the Sylvania SilverStar Ultras use a thin strip of blue tint specifically placed so that it reduces bulb output and glare.

The water dunk helps blow off some of the carbon and oxidization that inevitably occurs during the heating process, but the main purpose of quenching copper is to quickly cool it, as copper doesn't harden when quenched (unlike some other materials). It's not required, but it results in a better finished product, and less chance of a burn. Same goes for the sanding, it just knocks down the high spots from the previous installation, giving you a better surface to seal with. If the washer has ridges that catch your fingernail, that is a good candidate for a quick post-anneal sanding.

I agree with 6 Star on this. Honestly, get some driving lamps and use those for night driving in the country. There are ZERO LED or HID "plug-and-play" bulbs that are designed to work with any OEM halogen lamp housing. They either scatter light so badly they blind other motorists, or they're aimed so low on the road as to be useless at night.

Works like a charm and is 100% acceptable from a field service standpoint. Use MAP gas, not propane. Heat to red hot, then drop in water and flatten on sandpaper as stated above.

Cut springs aren't some inherently evil modification, but it's cheap and easy so a lot of people try it. It's also easy to get wrong, which gives it a bad wrap. Cutting a spring makes it stiffer (more load carrying capacity) because you are essentially shortening the lever arm that is wound into a coiled shape. But it also, obviously, makes the free and compressed lengths shorter. I cut one half coil out of the front springs on my EA81T wagon and it rides beautifully. It only bottoms out on the sort of bumps that you would expect any car to bottom out on. The spring doesn't feel like it's overpowering the KYB GR2 strut, but again, I was very conservative with how much I cut off.

Damn Paul, beat me to it by literally a minute!

RockAuto.com will probably have better selection and prices, even after including shipping costs. There is also a 5% discount code that gets posted to the forum every few months.

Yes, that is different than our hot wire MAFs. Ours are 22680AA110, with a green JECS label.

No worries, this isn't a life-or-death situation. As long as they still have the paper catalog (maybe digital in EU?) and a patient soul behind the parts counter, I'm sure they could look up the part number over the phone.

Can your local Subaru dealership look up the part numbers?

To start with, those P/Ns for the injectors don't follow the part numbering for Subaru that I'm familiar with. You don't usually see letters at the end of the number. Could be a Euro thing, but my suspicion is that those numbers are JECS numbers. I don't have any uninstalled injectors on hand, but my catalog lists Turbo/MPFI injectors as: 16600AA010 for MPFI and 16600AA000 for Turbo engines.