carfreak85
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Posts posted by carfreak85
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Jackman was an aftermarket company that had zero affiliation with Subaru of America. They made wheels for all sorts of 4x4s back in the day.
We're talking OEM, Subaru-sourced wheels in this thread.
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I'm still not clear what bushing we're discussion here...
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On 1/7/2015 at 10:12 AM, Loyale 2.7 Turbo said:
First they came available chromed 14" for the Fully Optioned EA81 Turbo Wagon...
Not in the United States. None of the factory photos, or official documentation that I've seen shows ANY EA81 chassis having factory 14 -in. wheels.
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17 hours ago, Ionstorm66 said:
You can see in that picture the screws to set the camber are against the top of the tower. In order to get my camber set right, the screws would be under the top of the strut tower. Also these style tops lower the car over an inch.
This style of camber plate RAISES the front of the car. The OEM strut mounts protrude up into the engine bay, while these plates are flat and actually don't protrude into the engine bay at all.
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On 4/19/2021 at 3:12 PM, el_freddo said:
...blue lights for driving...
End up actually reducing the output of said bulb, since only blue spectrum can escape the blue tinted glass globe. Some bulbs, like the Sylvania SilverStar Ultras use a thin strip of blue tint specifically placed so that it reduces bulb output and glare.
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The water dunk helps blow off some of the carbon and oxidization that inevitably occurs during the heating process, but the main purpose of quenching copper is to quickly cool it, as copper doesn't harden when quenched (unlike some other materials). It's not required, but it results in a better finished product, and less chance of a burn.
Same goes for the sanding, it just knocks down the high spots from the previous installation, giving you a better surface to seal with. If the washer has ridges that catch your fingernail, that is a good candidate for a quick post-anneal sanding.
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I agree with 6 Star on this. Honestly, get some driving lamps and use those for night driving in the country. There are ZERO LED or HID "plug-and-play" bulbs that are designed to work with any OEM halogen lamp housing.
They either scatter light so badly they blind other motorists, or they're aimed so low on the road as to be useless at night.
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7 hours ago, Ionstorm66 said:
Not the best fix but you can refurb crush washers. Anneal them by heating cherry red and dropping in a bucket of water. Then use sandpaper on a flat surface like plate glass, and flatten both sides.
Works like a charm and is 100% acceptable from a field service standpoint. Use MAP gas, not propane. Heat to red hot, then drop in water and flatten on sandpaper as stated above.
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Cut springs aren't some inherently evil modification, but it's cheap and easy so a lot of people try it. It's also easy to get wrong, which gives it a bad wrap.
Cutting a spring makes it stiffer (more load carrying capacity) because you are essentially shortening the lever arm that is wound into a coiled shape. But it also, obviously, makes the free and compressed lengths shorter.
I cut one half coil out of the front springs on my EA81T wagon and it rides beautifully. It only bottoms out on the sort of bumps that you would expect any car to bottom out on. The spring doesn't feel like it's overpowering the KYB GR2 strut, but again, I was very conservative with how much I cut off.
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Damn Paul, beat me to it by literally a minute!
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RockAuto.com will probably have better selection and prices, even after including shipping costs.
There is also a 5% discount code that gets posted to the forum every few months.-
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Yes, that is different than our hot wire MAFs. Ours are 22680AA110, with a green JECS label.
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No worries, this isn't a life-or-death situation. As long as they still have the paper catalog (maybe digital in EU?) and a patient soul behind the parts counter, I'm sure they could look up the part number over the phone.
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Can your local Subaru dealership look up the part numbers?
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To start with, those P/Ns for the injectors don't follow the part numbering for Subaru that I'm familiar with. You don't usually see letters at the end of the number. Could be a Euro thing, but my suspicion is that those numbers are JECS numbers.
I don't have any uninstalled injectors on hand, but my catalog lists Turbo/MPFI injectors as: 16600AA010 for MPFI and 16600AA000 for Turbo engines. -
1 hour ago, jonathan909 said:
If you're annoyed by these, follow the "youtube" link and leave appropriate feedback for them, because it's pretty certain they're not reading our replies here.
I'll just report the threads as spam, no need to give the OP more hits...
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...Annnnnnnd they're sold out again. Got the last one in the States heading North from SoCal as we speak.
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The door trim is probably a dealer-installed extra, so its location would be determined by whoever was doing the PDI.
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Neither of those ECU part numbers show up in my '85-'90 parts catalog.
Got the injector, downpipe, MAF, boost controller, etc. part numbers?
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On 3/17/2021 at 5:04 PM, bratlife said:
Awesome, thanks a bunch for your opinion and tips. With that set-up, do your tires fit inside the wheel wells then? Like the stock ones do? I don't really want to go over 15" wheels so I will still have plenty of sidewall to be able to air down a bit when need be. But 15" steelies from Subaru's would be real easy to come by.
Did you get hubs off an xt6? or do the conversion? either way, what was the process like?
Thanks a bunch!
The RS wheels do tuck inside the bodywork, but to a lessor degree than the stock wheels.
MY EA82 has the XT6 conversion. I didn't do the install, but it's pretty straight forward, IF you can find the parts. Do a search, someone has done a writeup. -
tomhyyt, do you think you could find part numbers for these EU-specific components so that we could compare them to USDM part numbers?
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Pretty sure Euro EA82Ts didn't have catalytic converters. They weren't required in Britain until the mid 1990's. I think the ECU may also have been different than USDM, but this is all conjecture. Lots of EU-based members on the Facebook groups could answer this easily.
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There are three options for wheels on EA chassis, as I see things.
Option 1: Run 4x140 wheels. There are lots of options out there, but they're mostly 13x5.5 and can get expensive if you have to import them.
Option 2: 6-lug conversion. Most of the 6-lug wheels will have massive offsets and won't fit like the OEM wheels. This is the worst option, IMHO, but also the least expensive.
Option 3: Subaru 5-lug conversion. I run this setup and currently have 16x7 2.5RS wheels with 205/45/16 tires that don't have too much offset and don't rub. This will be the most expensive option as you need to replace the hubs with XT6, or custom machined, hubs to fit the impreza/legacy/forester/STI lug pattern.
Ea82 rear subframe bushings
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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Got it. Just fill it with 3M Window-Weld.