carfreak85

Is that an '85/86 shorty bumper?

I seriously wouldn't bother with any kind of intake snorkus. The OEM air box pulls from the passenger's side inner fender, so as long as you have the fender liner installed, it will be pulling cool-ish, dry air. The A/C fan isn't always running, even when the A/C is on. I would be cautious about running that fan at 100% duty cycle for three days straight, especially given its age. It will probably work, but it could fail. Just thought of this: FIRE EXTINGUISHERS IN ALL VEHICLES.

Keep the original air box and DO NOT install the cone filter. You will lose horsepower by having the engine draw in hot, underhood air. I don't think the WRX IC is too big, but properly fitting and plumbing it will be outside your budget, potentially. A DIY manual boost controller set to about 10 psi could be fun, along with a RRAFPR.

He could ask more, but he isn't getting what he's asking now, so what does that say? I agree, a build like that shouldn't stop at the engine. All show, no, well, anything...

Botto, I'll pay you extra to ship it to me, if it isn't all rusted up or busted to hell.

I'm interested in the cyclops lamp, what are you looking to get for it shipped to 98033?

I'm very interested in the rubber end caps of the rear bumper. What would you want for those shipped to 98033?

GD, I don't know your customers, how their cars are set up, or if they're actually any good at driving or not. It really doesn't matter how many sets of rubber they have, or what kind of cars they compete against, or anything else really. First off, I'm talking about the 5x100 wheel bearings only. 5x114.3-equipped STIs got different, stronger wheel bearings. Our WRX is a daily-driven car that, early in it's life, was used as an Auto-X toy by my father and I. Two drivers per event, 6-10 laps per driver, 6-10 events per year for 5+ years. The original wheel bearings started to fail around 120k miles. One failed radially, one failed axially. Stock suspension, wheels and brakes (SCCA D-stock rules), but with the stickiest summer tires we could afford. When I looked into replacement bearing options I did a ton of research. I suggest you do a google/NASIOC search for a guy called Gary Sheehan. He was the driver who debuted the WRX in the USTCC back in 2002/2003. His front wheel bearings were dying due to excessive brake heat conducting into the hubs, the bearings and was cooking the grease until the bearing physically failed. The fix was multi-faceted, but essentially what the team did was: 2-piece brake rotors (Stoptech BBK, said this was the #1 thing to preserve bearing life) An older bearing part number that is now NLA, which had 8,000 lbs. more load capacity vs. the OEM bearing Repack the new bearings with a nylon-cage-compatible, high-temp grease (DuPont Krytox, NEO HP800, etc.) Over-torque the axle nut to 145 lb-ft. (As recommended to Sheehan's team by the lead tech at SOA) Gary believes the bearing package is the weak point. Heck, the conversation even drew in an engineer from NTN who gave us input for the alternate bearing part number and also advised on the proper grease to use that won't degrade the nylon bearing cage. TL;DR - The 5x100 bearings DO have premature failures if in "extreme use" cases.

No, but GL-10 coupes (and probably sedans too) had a fold-down rear center arm rest.

Since we're on the topic of repacking wheel bearings, what is your preferred method of cleaning the original grease out of the bearings? I've done this once so far to get a higher-temp grease in the bearings for my WRX, but it was pretty labor intensive.

Don't turn that engine over anymore... Needs to be disassembled and cleaned with all those shavings in there. I do have a few spare EA81T engines, if you're looking to replace this one.

I'm in for two tan and two grey EA81 door handle trim cups. I can send you a pair to model off of, there is a L and R, but you could probably alter the models so one part could fit both doors. The door handle trim cups are one of those parts that has gone bad on EVERY EA71/EA81/EA82 that wasn't garage-kept. You WILL sell these once folks outside the USMB find out they're available.

Interior door handle trim cups, the ones that turn to dust, for all gens. AAAAAAAAnd, GO!

BEECHBM69 Money talks....

Don't go by the production date on the chassis. Where is the distributor located on the engine, front or rear, left or right?

While I agree with GD that you would be better off starting with a turbo engine, if you really want to make power, but I'd disagree about his condemnation of the N/A 4-cylinder. The VE on the N/A 2.5L engines isn't all that great, probably somewhere around 80-85%, the thing only makes 70 hp/L. The real kings of VE, Honda and Ferrari, have engines that make over 120 hp/L, for reference. If that same 300 ci V8 that had good VE, it would make over 585 hp. But I digress... The point is that you will spend a lot more money on the N/A Subaru engine just to make stock "turbo-engine" power. Spend that same amount of cash (~$3-4k) on the turbo engine and you could be making an easy 350 whp on the turbo engine. A LOT more people have gone down the turbo path, so there is more aftermarket support for the turbo engines, by orders of magnitude.

So, steel-only wheels with about 2-3 inches more offset than the factory wheels?..... 5-lug it is! Also, $90 per wheel is DAMN CHEAP for brand new wheels.

You need to find the troubleshooting diagrams for the EA81T and follow those.

FYI, these are the same injectors used on turbocharged Datsuns in the 80's, but Subaru ran them at a lower fuel pressure, 36 psi instead of the industry standard of ~43 psi. The pressure regulator in in the engine bay, the device down on the fuel pump shelf is a pulse-dampener.

Just trying to get a backup for my own adapter. Apparently there are only 3 of them on this plant.

Let me know if that thing ever gets parted out. I've got cash-money with your name on it for the rotary bits...

I've used them before. I'd prefer OEM or Moog, but at this point, you've got to be happy you can still buy tie rod ends.

GD, I read that the '00+ TCUs have a more gradual AWD engagement than the '99s. Our forester has issues with RWD not kicking in when the fronts slip until you remove some engine load. Would the later TCU help this, or would that be Duty-C failing? I spoke to SuberDave about the 4EATs and he sad if they're going bad, there isn't much you can do to repair them. Best bet, he suggested, was to find a smooth-shifting AT to swap in instead of repair. Thoughts?

I was under the impression that OEM EJ head bolts were TTY. This is not the case? They can be reused indefinitely?

Yeah, I could have told you he would love them. Everyone does, but only because the human brain can be very easily tricked into believing that "brighter is better." Eye-witness testimony is notoriously unreliable, and unless this guy geeks out on automotive lighting and reading dry engineering white papers on the subject, there's a great chance this guy has no idea what he's talking about. Based on the fact that those p'n'p LEDs can't possibly be the correct geometry for his halogen housings, lets start by saying the light they produce is not aimed correctly as it exits the lamp. Some is hitting the road right in front of the bumper, some is shooting up into outer space and the rest is roughly distributed around the OEM hotspot. The light in front of the bumper hits the road and reflects back into the driver's eye. "Wow, I can see the road so well, these new bulbs are a great investment and really improved my forward lighting and night vision!" Wrong. He needs light further down the road, not right in front of the car, and not randomly distributed. Because the road in front of the car (not in the distance, where it should be) is so bright, the driver's mind is tricked to believe that it can see more than it actually can. The cooler color of the LEDs also more closely mimics mid-day light, further tricking our rather primitive brains into thinking the actual volume of light being output is more helpful than it really is. It's not his fault, he just doesn't understand that the poor distribution of light, along with the change in color temperature of the light being output creates an optical illusion. His brain fills in the gaps seamlessly and he is none the wiser, unfortunately. I'd be happy to provide more information to anyone who is interested, but beware, it's pretty heavy on the geek info.