carfreak85

Don't turn that engine over anymore... Needs to be disassembled and cleaned with all those shavings in there. I do have a few spare EA81T engines, if you're looking to replace this one.

I'm in for two tan and two grey EA81 door handle trim cups. I can send you a pair to model off of, there is a L and R, but you could probably alter the models so one part could fit both doors. The door handle trim cups are one of those parts that has gone bad on EVERY EA71/EA81/EA82 that wasn't garage-kept. You WILL sell these once folks outside the USMB find out they're available.

Interior door handle trim cups, the ones that turn to dust, for all gens. AAAAAAAAnd, GO!

BEECHBM69 Money talks....

Don't go by the production date on the chassis. Where is the distributor located on the engine, front or rear, left or right?

While I agree with GD that you would be better off starting with a turbo engine, if you really want to make power, but I'd disagree about his condemnation of the N/A 4-cylinder. The VE on the N/A 2.5L engines isn't all that great, probably somewhere around 80-85%, the thing only makes 70 hp/L. The real kings of VE, Honda and Ferrari, have engines that make over 120 hp/L, for reference. If that same 300 ci V8 that had good VE, it would make over 585 hp. But I digress... The point is that you will spend a lot more money on the N/A Subaru engine just to make stock "turbo-engine" power. Spend that same amount of cash (~$3-4k) on the turbo engine and you could be making an easy 350 whp on the turbo engine. A LOT more people have gone down the turbo path, so there is more aftermarket support for the turbo engines, by orders of magnitude.

So, steel-only wheels with about 2-3 inches more offset than the factory wheels?..... 5-lug it is! Also, $90 per wheel is DAMN CHEAP for brand new wheels.

You need to find the troubleshooting diagrams for the EA81T and follow those.

FYI, these are the same injectors used on turbocharged Datsuns in the 80's, but Subaru ran them at a lower fuel pressure, 36 psi instead of the industry standard of ~43 psi. The pressure regulator in in the engine bay, the device down on the fuel pump shelf is a pulse-dampener.

Just trying to get a backup for my own adapter. Apparently there are only 3 of them on this plant.

Let me know if that thing ever gets parted out. I've got cash-money with your name on it for the rotary bits...

I've used them before. I'd prefer OEM or Moog, but at this point, you've got to be happy you can still buy tie rod ends.

GD, I read that the '00+ TCUs have a more gradual AWD engagement than the '99s. Our forester has issues with RWD not kicking in when the fronts slip until you remove some engine load. Would the later TCU help this, or would that be Duty-C failing? I spoke to SuberDave about the 4EATs and he sad if they're going bad, there isn't much you can do to repair them. Best bet, he suggested, was to find a smooth-shifting AT to swap in instead of repair. Thoughts?

I was under the impression that OEM EJ head bolts were TTY. This is not the case? They can be reused indefinitely?

Yeah, I could have told you he would love them. Everyone does, but only because the human brain can be very easily tricked into believing that "brighter is better." Eye-witness testimony is notoriously unreliable, and unless this guy geeks out on automotive lighting and reading dry engineering white papers on the subject, there's a great chance this guy has no idea what he's talking about. Based on the fact that those p'n'p LEDs can't possibly be the correct geometry for his halogen housings, lets start by saying the light they produce is not aimed correctly as it exits the lamp. Some is hitting the road right in front of the bumper, some is shooting up into outer space and the rest is roughly distributed around the OEM hotspot. The light in front of the bumper hits the road and reflects back into the driver's eye. "Wow, I can see the road so well, these new bulbs are a great investment and really improved my forward lighting and night vision!" Wrong. He needs light further down the road, not right in front of the car, and not randomly distributed. Because the road in front of the car (not in the distance, where it should be) is so bright, the driver's mind is tricked to believe that it can see more than it actually can. The cooler color of the LEDs also more closely mimics mid-day light, further tricking our rather primitive brains into thinking the actual volume of light being output is more helpful than it really is. It's not his fault, he just doesn't understand that the poor distribution of light, along with the change in color temperature of the light being output creates an optical illusion. His brain fills in the gaps seamlessly and he is none the wiser, unfortunately. I'd be happy to provide more information to anyone who is interested, but beware, it's pretty heavy on the geek info.

REALLY sticky....

Zap, NO NO NO NO NO!! This is the sort of garbage I was talking about a few posts back. Don't buy that crap, don't suggest it to other people. Understand, those are garbage bulbs that DO NOT help with night vision.

Original post was from 2013, OP was last active July 21st, 2013... I'm gonna say this never happened.

You need auxiliary driving lamps, not LEDs in your fog lamps. Different beam patterns.

That very last statement "...by a wounded..." is the only reason we have an AT in our fleet of eight vehicles (Well, the EA81T hardtop is still AT, but not for long). Two dislocated shoulders and one ruptured ACL in the last 5 years has proven this to be a necessary evil. Also, this 10,000 hp top fuel dragster uses a 5-disc clutch and direct drive. ATs eat power and when your margin of victory is sometimes in the ten-thousandths of a second, every horse counts: http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticles/ID/3161?Nerds-Eye-View--Inside-10000-horsepower-Part-2.aspx

What is the post Gambler fate of this vehicle?

ATs are for the birds. MT all day.

The older ones could be killed by overheating the engine. The newer ones, especially the turbocharged ones, don't tolerate crap oil or long oil change intervals. Rust is the common denominator. These are inexpensive cars built to a price. The chassis are not designed to go 400k miles. In fact, the only vehicles on the road that are built that way are long-haul trucks. Ours have a 1 million mile design life.

PA Grown, I don't have any issues with him, but John Blume has a long a sordid history with this forum. He was once a very active member, building cars for people, lift kits, selling parts, etc. He was a good guy, and I considered spending a great deal of money on his services at one point. Then he started swindling board members, disappeared from the USMB, and stopped answering his phone/emails/etc. Do a search for "mudrat79". Heck, it sounds like you're pretty close to him, why don't you ask him what happened and why he isn't more active in the old school Subaru world, if he still is so passionate about these cars.

Weren't those Sterlings just dolled up Hondas? Or am I thinking of another badge-engineered car?