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carfreak85

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Everything posted by carfreak85

  1. carfreak85
    There are no bolt on parts for engine performance on this car, everything will be custom or modified. As GD said above, if you break it, there are very few parts you can substitute. That being said, I have modified my turbo wagon. Also, pics of your BRAT, please.
  2. carfreak85
    Whatever happened to this project?
  3. carfreak85
    I'm still waiting to see it mocked up on a stock, quad-beam '83+ GL front end.... Cuz that's how they came, right?
  4. carfreak85
    Skishop69, did the OP ever get back to you on those air struts?
  5. carfreak85
    Still no photos...
  6. carfreak85
    King Springs refuses to release their spring rates...
  7. carfreak85
    GD, I'm going to disagree with you here. I've used this stuff on two cars so far, one of which was my T-wagon 4 or so years ago. I picked up this trick from Dave Coleman, current design engineer at Mazda R&D. If it's good enough for his championship rally cars, it's good enough for our differential outrigger bushings. Now, that said, I'm not suggesting that a new bushing be made from this material, just that a failed bushing could be refreshed by filing the voids with 3M Window Weld.
  8. carfreak85
    Stay away from poly in any bushing that twists, unless you like routine maintenance.
  9. carfreak85
    It depends on what you value the car at. Too low and they'll ignore you. I looked into it for my EA81T wagon and they rejected both the model and the value I set it at.
  10. carfreak85
    Just buy a tube of 3M Window Weld, tape up one side of the factory bushing and fill in the voids in the bushing with the 3M product.
  11. carfreak85
    Just curious. I know MOMO and Grant had applications for Gens 1-3, but I've never seen or heard of an adapter from Nardi.
  12. carfreak85
    Yeah, I'd say the brushes in the alt probably took a dump.
  13. carfreak85
    On just the EJ22, or any EJ engine?
  14. carfreak85
    Link fixed!
  15. carfreak85
    To close the loop on this thread I installed two SOA-reman'd front axles and this appears to have solved our issue.
  16. carfreak85
    CrazyEights, you got those photos handy? I'd like to start reviewing what needs to be done.
  17. carfreak85
    Yo, Myxalplyx, any updates on the parts?
  18. carfreak85
    Well if that's what some stranger told your daughter, who told you, who is telling us, then it must be correct. Post pics once you've got it all mocked up!
  19. carfreak85
    I'll try to fix the link at home this evening.
  20. carfreak85
    You must trim a 4-beam grill to fit the center lamp. The switch mounts to the left of the steering column, in one of the holes by your left knee. There should be a diagram in the USRM.
  21. carfreak85
    The problem, as stated above, is that the EJ rack is wider than an EA rack. This pushes the inner tie rod pivot point out of alignment with the lower control arm's pivot point. The problem with that is that when you drive over a bump, the tie rods and control arm don't travel in the same arc. This difference in travel can introduce a small (or large) amount of steering input that the driver did not ask for, making the car feel darty and hard to trust on bumpy roads at speed. Using EJ axles doesn't effect steering geometry. The EJ knuckles don't move the ball joint or strut, so the only real change is the Ackerman angle, due to the relocated steering pickup on the EJ knuckle, relative to the same pickup on the EA knuckles.
  22. carfreak85
    Our account didn't make the cut this year, but there are some really great IG accounts that the folks at SRT USA did highlight! Check out our account! @templeoffuji https://drivetribe.com/p/best-subaru-instagram-of-2017-srtusa-NVfIkOcIR-Ka5m3VUKlHkw
  23. carfreak85
    Sounds like a blown head gasket or a crack in the head between the valves on at least one cylinder.
  24. carfreak85
    Ok, color me interested....
  25. carfreak85
    Do any of the air struts on your XT6 still hold air? I'd be interested in those if yes.
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