carfreak85

Throwing this out to the community for help. I'm looking to buy/borrow/copy the driver used to release the rear wheel bearings from an EA-series trailing arm. I've got two sets of wheel bearings that need changing and I'd REALLY prefer to not use a punch to break these guys free. Any leads you can provide will help.

I was suggesting Rob's expertise not because I thought the two control systems were very similar, only because, as I understand it, he basically single-handedly decoded and modified the EJ20G ECU code. That experience could prove helpful on your quest.

Has anyone reached out to Rob, or RobTune fame over on Legacy Central? Seems like he did all this decoding for the EJ20G ECUs and might be able to provide some guidance and a heap of experience on this matter. It would be really cool to be able to rechip, or even reflash an EA82T ECU.

I don't bother to wind mine out past the stock 5.5k redline. The turbo kicks in at 1,500 rpm and all the power is in the middle of the rev range anyway. If you're shifting at 6,100 rpm, you're not shifting at the right rpm for acceleration.

Any update on the parts? I've got cash in hand!

Look up in the factory service manual what is used, contact an aftermarket company such as Redline or Motul and ask if they have an equivalent grease.

Don't poo poo cut springs. There is a right way to do it, using math and science, and there is the ghetto way. I used science...

But, but.... You have TWO! Trade me?

I only buy Moog for steering and suspension parts.

Check out the Subaru Forester forum, all Fozzy, all the time! My wife has a '99 and we just fitted 215/65/16 tires (stock is 215/60/16, IIRC), and the spare just barely fits in the trunk well, if you deflate the tire completely.

Contact Redline Oils and ask them what they recommend.

Sell it to me instead!

MOMO made EA81 adapters as well, but I've only ever seen one, on ebay, and it's now in my EA81T wagon.

I haven't tried that since last winter, but I suppose I'll have another opportunity soon. I've been in "D" when it's happened previously. Most of the time, its at pretty low speeds, like pulling out of a parking lot. The front wheels will be on snow/ice, rears on wet pavement. I'll dip into the throttle to pull away and the fronts will just spin and spin, well past the point that I'd expect AWD to kick in, maybe 2.5-3 seconds of front wheel spin, then BAM!!! RWD engaged. Happened the same way on the freeway once and spun my 90* to the side and almost stuffed it into the guard rail head on... I'd like to get this fixed for my wife before the weather turns for good.

Gloyale, I think the plates are failing in our 4EAT, the AWD system is VERY slow to engage, if you get the fronts spinning, you almost have to release the throttle completely to get the Duty C solenoid to kick power rearwards. Have you performed this repair? Are dealer parts uber expensive? Should I just start looking for a lower mileage transmission?

I've had this happen to my car once before in similar conditions. I'd have to think something is freezing and keeping the tach from operating properly, but it's not a common problem for me, so I've never pursued it beyond doing some research.

What happened to the downpipe? Does the uppipe include the header portion of the exhaust, or just an uppipe, like on an EJ-turbo?

I'll take those parts. TWE header and downpipe plus turbo? Come with anything else?

I'm running a vintage Momo wheel and adapter in my '84 wagon.

You're asking the impossible unfortunately. You really want a tall, softly sprung suspension for any sort of rally activity, the dampening can still be relatively stiff, but the spring rates should be much softer, and body roll will just be a part of the game. I would probably even drop the anti-roll bar sizes, maybe go RX in the rear (bigger than GL, to help with rotation) and GL in the front. There are lots of one-wheel bumps in rally, and anti-roll bars can severely limit wheel travel in these situations. If you can maximize individual wheel travel (i.e. smaller, or deleted anti-roll bars) you can run a stiffer spring and dampening, since a smaller/no bar effectively reduces the dynamic spring rate.) My suggestion, since it seems you want street handling as well as rallyx ability, would be to find a nice set of rally-friendly coilovers (reasonable spring rates without a shortened shock body) and change the ride height based on that day's activities.

Couple options: Measure the ID and OD of your current bushings and look on their website for the corresponding dimensions. Or just call them...

You came to a Japanese car forum with and old, obscure German car and want help finding parts? I want what you're smoking!

Wagon digi-dashes have the turbo indicator.

Are you getting out of the game?

Jono, there is a lot more to proper lighting than a simple "eye test". I'm confident enough in that statement that if you send me one of your lamps and I'll provide a stock halogen lamp. If those eBay-specials out perform the factory halogen lamp in terms of proper distribution of light, beam cutoff, build quality, durability or anything except for total lumens produced, I will send you $250 USD via paypal.