carfreak85

Contact Redline Oils and ask them what they recommend.

Sell it to me instead!

MOMO made EA81 adapters as well, but I've only ever seen one, on ebay, and it's now in my EA81T wagon.

I haven't tried that since last winter, but I suppose I'll have another opportunity soon. I've been in "D" when it's happened previously. Most of the time, its at pretty low speeds, like pulling out of a parking lot. The front wheels will be on snow/ice, rears on wet pavement. I'll dip into the throttle to pull away and the fronts will just spin and spin, well past the point that I'd expect AWD to kick in, maybe 2.5-3 seconds of front wheel spin, then BAM!!! RWD engaged. Happened the same way on the freeway once and spun my 90* to the side and almost stuffed it into the guard rail head on... I'd like to get this fixed for my wife before the weather turns for good.

Gloyale, I think the plates are failing in our 4EAT, the AWD system is VERY slow to engage, if you get the fronts spinning, you almost have to release the throttle completely to get the Duty C solenoid to kick power rearwards. Have you performed this repair? Are dealer parts uber expensive? Should I just start looking for a lower mileage transmission?

I've had this happen to my car once before in similar conditions. I'd have to think something is freezing and keeping the tach from operating properly, but it's not a common problem for me, so I've never pursued it beyond doing some research.

What happened to the downpipe? Does the uppipe include the header portion of the exhaust, or just an uppipe, like on an EJ-turbo?

I'll take those parts. TWE header and downpipe plus turbo? Come with anything else?

I'm running a vintage Momo wheel and adapter in my '84 wagon.

You're asking the impossible unfortunately. You really want a tall, softly sprung suspension for any sort of rally activity, the dampening can still be relatively stiff, but the spring rates should be much softer, and body roll will just be a part of the game. I would probably even drop the anti-roll bar sizes, maybe go RX in the rear (bigger than GL, to help with rotation) and GL in the front. There are lots of one-wheel bumps in rally, and anti-roll bars can severely limit wheel travel in these situations. If you can maximize individual wheel travel (i.e. smaller, or deleted anti-roll bars) you can run a stiffer spring and dampening, since a smaller/no bar effectively reduces the dynamic spring rate.) My suggestion, since it seems you want street handling as well as rallyx ability, would be to find a nice set of rally-friendly coilovers (reasonable spring rates without a shortened shock body) and change the ride height based on that day's activities.

Couple options: Measure the ID and OD of your current bushings and look on their website for the corresponding dimensions. Or just call them...

You came to a Japanese car forum with and old, obscure German car and want help finding parts? I want what you're smoking!

Wagon digi-dashes have the turbo indicator.

Are you getting out of the game?

Jono, there is a lot more to proper lighting than a simple "eye test". I'm confident enough in that statement that if you send me one of your lamps and I'll provide a stock halogen lamp. If those eBay-specials out perform the factory halogen lamp in terms of proper distribution of light, beam cutoff, build quality, durability or anything except for total lumens produced, I will send you $250 USD via paypal.

1999 "S" would NOT have the VLSD rear diff. Only 2000+ models got that. Also, the clocks have a bad soldier joint that often needs to be repaired. Many how-to articles on that.

[rant] Ugh, those "15-LED Chinese" lamps are going to be worse for night vision than your original headlamps. You REALLY should only upgrade to LED 4"x6" lamps from reputable companies who actually design their products for improved night vision. [/rant]

I've read that the USDM WRX clutch master cylinder is 11/16" where this one is a 5/8", so I hesitate to mix'n'match... I'll have to double check on the fluid, but I didn't notice any on the slave boot.

Background: 1993 JDM WRX transmission/clutch/slave & master cylinders. No previous problems with shifting or using the clutch. Yesterday I noticed that my clutch fork didn't have its return spring, so I bought one and fabricated a bracket for it to hook onto. When I went to test the free play after installing the spring, the clutch pedal went straight to the floor and stayed there, as if the master or slave cylinders were shot. I removed the spring and the clutch feels pretty normal again. Haven't driven the car since this happened yet, so I can't 100% confirm it works OK without the spring, but the pedal doesn't stay on the floor without the spring. The spring tension is so small that I have a hard time believing that it caused this, but here we are. The slave cylinder (30620AA021) was used on USDM cars and I can get a new one no problem. The master cylinder (37230FC010) however doesn't seem to match up to any Subaru sold in the U.S. and seems pretty hard to locate on a web search. What do you folks think? Is this a master or a slave problem? Does the system just need to be bled? Replace both? Has anyone converted a JDM clutch hydraulic system to a USDM one?

The WRX rear lines are a few inches longer than the STI ones. While the longer lines make it possible to swing the caliper up out of the way on one bolt as designed, it also leaves a lot more line to get snagged on something or to bounce around. I've got the WRX lines on my EA81T and the STI lines on my EA82. Either part number will work, it's just a matter of if you want ease of service, or a more offroad-durable setup.

Haven't tackled this yet, still hoping for photos... Might have to wait until after WCSS.

The aftermarket stainless steel brake lines for an STI are a nearly bolt-in solution for the rear lines on an EA81 or EA82.

Tex...... Your pictures are broken and I need to reference this.

Well, if the $10,000 fine from the EPA for tampering with an emissions control device doesn't do it for you, maybe the fact that without a cat you are basically poisoning yourself and everyone else around you will change your tune. But my guess is that you don't really care and the idea of "going cat-less" is a wet dream of yours. If that's the case, nothing I, the government, nor anything that anybody else will tell you would change your mind. A modern, high-flow cat will provide the same muffling effect as a baffled muffler design with none of the flow restrictions that typically make people delete their cats. If you want an exhaust that ACTUALLY makes more power than stock, here is your recipe: Scrap everything from the exhaust flange rearward. 1 1/4" primaries with a decent merge angle aft of the factory cat location going up to a 2" primary. A single entry/single exit 2" 300+ cell high-flow cat mounted below the driver. 2" Straight pipe out the rear. If this set up proves too loud or too raspy, you can add a resonator after the cat, or a straight through, perforated core muffler in the stock location.

I'm shocked nobody else has said this yet, but: Don't be a jerk and remove your catalytic converter. If all you want is a louder than stock exhaust to do it properly by getting a new, high-flow cat and leave the exhaust without a muffler. You will gain very little power by keeping any portion of the OEM exhaust anyway. Again, don't be "that guy".