carfreak85
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Everything posted by carfreak85
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Free Lift Kit for the newer car SJR
carfreak85 replied to Scott in Bellingham's topic in Products for your Subaru
Scott, what does your day look like on Saturday the 20th? -
I agree with Numbchux, 5x100 is a terrible pattern to convert to. Either 4x100, 4x114.3 or 5x114.3. I'm not interested, because I think wheel adapters/wheel spacers are a terrible choice to begin with, but I figured I'd comment on the lug pattern.
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Has the planning begun for the next installment yet?
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Free Lift Kit for the newer car SJR
carfreak85 replied to Scott in Bellingham's topic in Products for your Subaru
2015 is the start of the current body style. -
Free Lift Kit for the newer car SJR
carfreak85 replied to Scott in Bellingham's topic in Products for your Subaru
Still looking for an SJ Forester ('15)? I'll probably be able to get the car up there this month, if you're still looking for one. -
The End of Yokohama Geolandar A/T-S - in Subie Sizes?
carfreak85 replied to wtdash's topic in Off Road
Sad day! The Geolander was one of the few AT tires in the correct sizes I was looking at for our forester... -
Monday I drove my wife to her kickboxing class in the Forester. It shook on the highway and made some popping/clunking noises during a tight 3-point turn in the parking lot. As I drove home, I got the feeling that something was wrong with the front brakes. When I got the car home I jacked it up and rotated the tires, but before I finished, I had a peek at the brakes. Passenger's side front caliper had a piston that had locked up and was starting to eat the trailing edge of the inner pad. I used a C-clamp to drive the piston back in and proceeded to NAPA for warranty replacement calipers and new pads. No shaking. The wife drove the car for work yesterday and reported no shaking and that the brakes didn't seem to be binding. Today I will install the new calipers and pads up front and hopefully we can put this behind us. Still no idea what the bearing clunk in the transmission is, or if it is still present (I think it is), but I need more seat time in that car.
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Since the clunking can only really be felt on the passenger's side, I removed the spindle assuming the wheel bearings on that side were bad. Once I got that spindle on the bench, I could not detect any axial or radial play in the bearing and it turned smoothly, without any clunking or binding, so yeah, I assume that is still good. I felt the driver's side wheel bearings as well while the spindle was still installed, both with and without an axle in the hub. Turned smoothly without binding and no detectable axial or radial play in the bearing...
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Did not drive with the new axle installed, as the clunking had not changed.What has me concerned is that the clunking can only be clearly felt on the passenger's side. Swapping axles side to side does not change this. I understand that there will be lash built into the diff and can feel that when rotating the axle back and forth. But the clunks are present while turning the axle through a continuous 400-or-so degrees of rotation, do I'm confident that I'm not feeling gear lash. I should also note that the clunk I'm describing is more felt than heard.
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I managed to find a pretty nice used axle in the junkyard over the weekend. I installed it on both sides of the car, swapping the two original axles around at the same time to try a different axle in every position. No luck, the clunking was still there. At this point my wife is getting impatient and I think we will take it to the local shop today and let them diagnose the problem, then I'll perform whatever repairs they discover.
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More testing in progress...
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More background: Back end of the car is on the ground, front end on jackstands with the transmission in park. Update: We did some playing around with the halfshafts to see if it made a difference from side to side. I pulled both, reinstalled the passenger's side axle on the driver's side (only one axle installed) and the clunking was very faint. With only one axle out you couldn't really tell there was a problem. I could feel something, but my dad said it felt like the ring and pinion meshing to him. However, with both axles installed in their original positions you could feel the clunking, loud and clear. We swapped the axles side-to-side to confirm, and the clunking was still there, unchanged. I'm headed to the junkyard to try to find a spare axle.
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Where do you folks source quality replacement axles? I just looked them up on www.subarugenuineparts.com and they want $375 PER AXLE!!!
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Update: I pulled the halfshaft from the offending corner and it feels pretty smooth. No binding as it goes through it's movement, DOJ extends and compresses ok. I'll drop the driveline after work today to see how that feels.
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Update: I drained the front differential and the fluid was caramel colored, not too smelly, perhaps a bit thin, but otherwise in great condition. The magnet on the drain plug only had a light dusting of debris, nothing alarming at all.
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The clunking is only audible at lower speeds in lower gears, while in gear, not during shifts. I can't figure out how to make the clunk consistently while driving, but my wife claims to hear it often. I heard it at least twice on a five minute test drive before I pulled it in for the repairs. The trans mount looks great for the mileage on the chassis, haven't inspected the pitch mount yet.
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Background: Struts are all newish, brakes recently serviced, new inner/outer tie rods, new ball joints, new FCAR bushings, wheels rebalanced, recent alignment. Symptoms: Faint clunking noise at low speeds while accelerating. Shaking at 60 mph, felt like unbalanced wheel, except we just had them rebalanced. Back story: I've been chasing an issue with the passenger's front wheel on our 1999 Forester for a few months now. The car is closing in on 200k miles and I had just finished replacing the ball joints and tie rod ends on the car when I noticed the passenger's side front control arm rear bushing was pretty badly torn. I replaced that bushing, got an alignment, then my wife tells me that the car is shaking on the highway. OK, wheels must be out of balance, so we get them rebalanced. No change. I do the wheel shake test and I felt some play, so let's take a look at the wheel bearing. Wheel and brakes removed, I can feel some clunking as I turn the hub. The driver's side feels smooth when rotated, but there is obviously something wrong with the passenger's side. I get the passenger's side spindle assembly on the bench expecting to find some grumbling and play, but it feels pretty smooth in rotation, with no axial or radial play. So I grab the halfshaft and rotate it. The clunking is still present, but it doesn't feel like it's coming from the CV or DOJ. I supposed it could be either of those parts, but I get the feeling that the passenger's side differential carrier bearing is going south. Question: I've read a lot about Subaru transmissions over the years and that if not reassembled properly with the correct backlash and bearing preload, they will fail again in pretty short order. As I see it, we've got a few options on how to proceed: 1) Rebuild the original transmission - Has to go to a shop and could get expensive with labor and, "while we're in there" incidentals, rebuild could re-fail 2) Replace original transmission with a good used one - I can do this, no problem, but I worry about getting a bad used transmission 3) Sell the car and find the wife a new vehicle - Since our Forester is a the bottom of it's depreciation curve right now, does it really make sense to sink $600-3,000 into a vehicle that's only worth $4,000 tops? Looking for opinions, experiences, etc. If you've got a nice, used transmission, I'm all ears too!
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Just because you found a search result doesn't mean that person completed a 5 speed swap.
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LOL at "thousands". "Hundreds" would be more accurate and is still probably optimistic. OP, it's your call on the flywheel bolts. I chose to put sleeves on my bolts because, even with the bolts torqued to spec, it sounded like a rod was knocking when I started the engine.
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Will it fit? Yes and no... As mentioned, the early EA81s will need to have some aluminum ground off the lower engine-side bellhousing. AT and turbo engines don't need to have this done. While the flywheel bolt pattern matches the pattern on the EA81 flywheel, the EA82 uses fatter bolts, so you'll have to machine sleeves to take up the space between the EA82 bolt hole and the thinner EA81 flywheel bolt. Not sure about the pressure plate interchange, but look up the part numbers and see.
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GD, I think you might be mistaken on the EA81 GL-10 and Turbo info. I've got some documents to scan and share...
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I'd be willing to bet the stock brake bias for most Subarus of any generation is closer to 80% front /20% rear.
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GD, got a link to your buddy's inlet? I'm in need of something to delete the silencer on my EJ20G swap.
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LOL, you're out of the Subaru game? MORE FOR ME!!!! You got lucky that you didn't keep that Honda Odyssey as long as you kept your Civic, otherwise your transmission would have surely s#it the bed by now.
