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carfreak85

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Everything posted by carfreak85

  1. carfreak85
    Does anyone live in or around the Baltimore area? There is a subie out there that I am very interested in buying, but I live 2,754 miles away. I'd be happy to pay you for your time. If you're able to act as my proxy and store it for a short time as well, I would compensate you accordingly. Tell your friends!
  2. carfreak85
    My wife's Forester has the same symptoms you describe and her 2.5l has piston slap. Was this noise present before your valve work? As for oil additives, not a good idea. I work for a vehicle manufacturer and we don't recommend using any sort of additive in the engine oil.
  3. carfreak85
    $145 per wheel is nothing when you can spend $1,000 per wheel for some applications. For a steel wheel it is a bit spendy, but where are you going to find another 4x140 application?
  4. carfreak85
    @skishop69 - Well the engineers behind EA81/82 axles never intended these vehicles to be lifted, much less Rubicon-capable.
  5. carfreak85
    Trans rebuilds on a Subaru are NOT cheap. I'd almost recommend sourcing a good working used trans. You'll probably be looking at over $1,000 at least, for a rebuild.
  6. carfreak85
    To piggyback off what GD said above: On any engine in general, carb'd or fuel injected, you want to keep the intake ports a bit rough. Not as-cast, per say, but not polished. This is because of the boundary layer of turbulent air right next to the port wall that keeps atomized fuel from dropping out of suspension. The exhaust ports in general, regardless of fuel delivery, may be polished to expedite the flow of the exhaust gas column.
  7. carfreak85
    I've seen cracked cylinder heads on at least three different generations of Subaru engines: EA81, EA82, EJ205. In many cases the engines run fine and I've been told that the cracks are both bad for the engine and that they are harmless. Since you'll be in a plane, I'd suggest having them repaired or replaced, for piece of mind. Flygas is an outfit in Italy that makes custom cast, dual port EA81 heads. Ram Performance in the States is an engine builder who specializes in EA81s for aircraft use.
  8. carfreak85
    KYB all day.
  9. carfreak85
    Ferp420, we're talking about a 90 hp engine with garbage flow rates. One inch diameter isn't great, but just removing that pipe introduces much warmer air to the engine and will probably result in a net loss in output. Replace that duct if you wish, but don't just remove it.
  10. carfreak85
    FIXED! New strikers for both doors fixed the issue. The driver's side had worn through the plastic coating and was starting to wear down the striker itself. The passenger's side still had the plastic, but it was loose and in pretty rough shape anyway. I should note that while I was able to order the strikers from SOA, the hardware to mount it is NLA...
  11. carfreak85
    Ahhhhh, I see it now. Do you know how thick the head is on the top of that pin in the joint, before I destroy the mirror to measure? I'm a little nervous to stick a screwdriver between the mirror and the housing, it looks like there are six or seven screws back there and not all of them have a direct line of sight to get a driver on them, much less being able to start them again during reassembly.
  12. carfreak85
    As an automotive design engineer I can tell you that it will make a difference in output, but with such a low-output motor, you may not even notice the difference unless you have a well-calibrated butt dyno. For every 10*F you lowere or lower your intake temperature, you gain 1% of total engine output. I would estimate (based on winter in MI) that your hot air intake has increased your intake air temperature by AT LEAST 40*F, so running through the math: (Your engine started life with 90 hp, but it's probably closer to 80 now) 80hp x 0.96 = 76.8 hp. And that's at the crankshaft. Let's assume a 20% loss from the drivetrain 76.8 x 0.80 + 61.44 hp. With 61.44 anemic horses dragging your Subaru around, you really need each and every horse working at its peak performance. If you're stuck on your new intake, at the very least you need to build a shield of some kind that seals off the filter from the rest of the engine compartment, no need to make a hood vent or scoop. Your original intake drew cool, dry air from the passenger's side inner fender.
  13. carfreak85
    Front valance for a Gen1 Stage1?
  14. carfreak85
    Get the appropriate fuel tank from any fuel injected Subaru (An EA81T, in the case of your BRAT) and be done. A surge tank is used when the OEM fuel tank is not baffled. It is essentially a mini fuel tank that is so small that fuel can't slosh away from the pickup. On a turbocharged car it is VERY IMPORTANT TO AVOID HIGH-LOAD/HIGH-BOOST FUEL STARVATION (aka RUNNING LEAN).
  15. carfreak85
    Good luck finding replacement trim... Start looking for a parts car.
  16. carfreak85
    I recently picked up some XT mirrors for an upcoming project and I'd like to repaint them. I'm thinking it would be simpler if I could disassemble the mirrors. Is there a simple way to get the mirror glass off the side-view mirror assembly? Can the mirror be disassembled to remove the rubber bellows at the folding joint?
  17. carfreak85
    Wheel adapters bad, converted hubs good...
  18. carfreak85
    A hot-air intake, eh? I'd be willing to wager that not only has that cost you power, but that your perceived increase in acceleration is just a placebo effect based on the louder intake honk.
  19. carfreak85
    Let me stop you right there. The first option you referenced is the correct avenue to go down. Proper 4x6" LED and HID lamps are expensive because there has been actual engineering and math put into the design and dispersion of light across your field of vision. These lamps WILL be an upgrade over your sealed-beam halogens. Cheaper alternatives are cheaper for a reason. They were "designed" around a halogen bulb, which is fine, but they were never intended to provide the correct beam pattern when fitted with an LED or HID "plug-n-play" bulb. The qulaity and legality of the PnP kits is enough for its own thread, so all I'll say about them is they are illegal for road use in all 50 states (IIRC) and are sold for "off highway" use only. These lamps WILL NOT be an upgrade over your sealed-beam halogens. The problem with slapping PnP LED/HID bulbs in these cheap lamp housings is that the shape of the light source from each of the three types (halogen/LED/HID) is different. The halogen lamp's reflector bowl shape and distance from the projector lens is different than that of a lamp that was intended to run an LED, which would also be different from that of an HID 4x6" lamp. There are other alternatives to the JW Speaker lamps, such as Grote and Truck-Lite, but you want to make sure you are buying DOT compliant lamps. That compliance testing and R&D costs money, no way around that...
  20. carfreak85
    Strikers are still available from the dealer!
  21. carfreak85
    I'll try to snag a picture of the procedure from my FSM tonight. There are several sets of reasonably priced EA82 FSMs on ebay right now.
  22. carfreak85
    Did a little recon yesterday after work and wouldn't you know it, that little sleeve on the striker was nowhere to be found! Looks like I need a replacement striker or two...
  23. carfreak85
    This is EXACTLY what I was hoping to find. If my memory serves me correctly, the striker doesn't have a sleeve on it, but this car is so new to me that I can't recall. Will pick up some spray lithium grease on the drive home.
  24. carfreak85
    I didn't have any trouble loosening the striker bolts, but I currently have it adjusted all the way in towards the center of the car, with no change. What part of the latch needs grease? I sprayed a bunch of WD-40 from the outside, but it sounds like the latch needs attention on the inside. The window glass is not hitting anything but the rubber seal and the latch doesn't seem to be catching prematurely.
  25. carfreak85
    I did a search, but most of what came back was about adjusting windows. I've got an EA82 coupe that doesn't like to fully latch the driver's side door. When the door is closed, you can push the trailing edge of the door in towards the body about a 1/4 inch and when you get up to highway speeds, the wind noise is pretty unbearable. I tried adjusting the striker closer to the driver's seat, but nothing seemed to change. I tried adjusting it outwards, away from the seat and still, nothing seemed to change. What am I missing? The 1987 FSM isn't much help either.
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