carfreak85

Check for failed bushings.

Running on E85 is a great idea that would not only cut cylinder temps (reliability +) but with the appropriate injectors and pump, you could make more power without much work outside of tuning. Only downside is availabilty, tuning for lower than 85% E, and the slight dip in fuel economy vs. gasoline, but a worthy trade IMHO. That said, the easiest and cheapest way to make power on a turbocharged engine is with boost. While staying at 8 psi and upgrading everything else to find gains is noble, it's the wrong way to start eating an elephant.

Interesting. Is that header NOS, or did you convince them to build one for you? Neither of my TWE headers have the flexible section.

That D-Sport article is suspect. They show fancy looking graphics and charts, with no attribution or explaining how they got the numbers presented. This leads me to believe (using my journalism background) that all they did was interview a TBC company, borrowed some "data" from those companies, and published the article. In fact, a quick scan of the article shows mention of SwainTech Coatings. Now, to be fair, SwainTech is THE BEST company you can find for this sort of thing, anyone else is just a pretender. The uppipe on my WRX has their White Lightening coating and while I'm sure it helps (I never did any pre/post testing) I would NEVER touch that pipe when hot. These coatings are thin, and even the best TBC isn't magical. You can't cheat the laws of physics, and (using my vehicle design engineer background) there is little chance that SwainTech's coating will prevent an EA82T cylinder head from cracking under extreme use. The root of the problem is the design of the heads, hence why FHI revised the casting twice during production. I have seen White Lightening pill, bubble, and flake, but at a MUCH slower rate than other ceramic coatings. I had my COBB Inconel uppipe coated in 2012, and it's not flaking yet, but has pilled where I had a minor coolant leak drip onto the pipe. Best/cheapest way to up the output is a big intercooler, a mint cooling system, and to crank up the boost. Anything beyond that (custom pistons/rods, head porting, etc.) gets expensive quickly. There's a reason these engines aren't plentiful these days, and it's because they weren't particularly reliable, even when new... OK, all that said, it's your money and your car. I'd love to see someone push the limits with an EA82T, just be aware that with such a compromised cylinder head design and such a low specific output, you will quickly reach the point of diminishing returns in terms of output and reliability.

I think most people go with a VF11 or TD04.

I'd love to get a set of those Genuine Subaru Parts optional wheels! Great looking car!

Who was that? I have a header made by forum member BoostedBalls, and a couple of TWE headers and downpipes.

Oooooo, the accessories parts catalog would be a gold mine!

They don't carry it at the local auto parts stores, I can verify that! I ended up double clamping that hose as insurance.

Why not contact SJR directly?

Oil dripping onto the exhaust?

Could it be unburnt fuel that flooded and washed out of the cylinder, left over from troubleshooting the initial swap?

etrailer.com has lots of good model-specific research. Look there if you have any other chain issues.

As I recall, the rear washer hose runs under the driver's side of the cargo area floor. I'm not sure where it runs forward and aft of the main cargo area, but you should be able to trace it from there.

What does your owner's manual have to say about tire chains? That should be the first stop on this adventure.

Depending on the year the button to activate this lamp said "Passing Lamp" or "Center Lamp." If anyone wants to add one to their EA81, I've got a spare lamp assembly. The only thing it needs is a replacement linkage to open the door/emblem.

Certainly is a nice, clean example! I do prefer the dual headlamps to the later quad-lamped face.

Just a thought on your installation based on my time working for a vehicle manufacturer. Applying a thermal barrier to a part will itself have some level of effectiveness, but if you design an air gap between the component, in your case the intake manifold, and the barrier, it will be MILES more effective at insulating from radiant heat. Once your thermal tape heat soaks, it will begin transferring the radiant heat from the block and coolant crossover into the manifold, albeit, at a slightly slower rate and over a slightly longer period of time than without it. This is why the exhaust heat shields either have a flame-retardant filling, or they encapsulate the exhaust pipe and have a 0.25-0.5 -in. gap between the pipe and the shield. I'm not trying to dissuade you from this project or trying to be critical, just trying to share some of the best practices we use in vehicle design and manufacturing to get the most out of your mods.

I think your efforts would be better spent isolating heat from the exhaust system and getting a clean, cool supply of intake air to the engine's inlet. The intake charge spends such a small amount of time flowing through the intake manifold that it really doesn't heat up that much, especially if it's already been compressed and heated by a turbocharger. Not that this idea wont help, but I don't think you would notice any difference on a dyno, for example. These engines aren't particularly efficient at turning fuel and oxygen into power, and the power levels are so low that we're talking 0-2 hp total for modifications at this level. A bigger radiator, some sort of high-flow water pump, lots of heat shields/ducting and a big intercooler would be more influential on engine performance and longevity.

It's certainly cheap enough to take a flyer on. Someone was fitting one of these to a HF Predator engine on one of the go-kart forums I'm on. Not sure how it turned out for him, but this application seems more inline with what that blower would fit. The listing does leave out a LOT of information that would be critical to know.

Well, not all exactly the same. The compressors changed at some point, and there are several P/Ns for evaporators, but if you didn't have A/C you should be able to swap in either of the systems.

Nope. I've poked around a couple EA82 DL models and at least one GL that didn't come with A/C. There is no evaporator under the dash (replaced with a simple plastic bellows) and the holes in the firewall have rubber plugs, they're not hiding any hardlines.

I remember talking to a board member who plumbed the turbo coolant outlet into the LH (N.A. driver's side) head. Might be worth looking into. IIRC he used an OEM hardline and straightened/re-bent it to reach the coolant port on the other cylinder head.

Short answer? No, and neither will an A/W IC.

They show up if I right click and "open image in new tab," but who wants to do that every time, for every image...? (Using Chrome browser, btw)