carfreak85

1 Lucky Texan is right, the dealership takes no responsibility for your vehicle. A family friend of ours recently had his nearly-new Outback STOLEN off the service lot at Carter Subaru in Seattle. They are still duking it out over restitution weeks after the vehicle was recovered.

They will want you to send in your lifters to be resurfaced at the same time.

I sent him a PM about parts I would buy, but haven't heard anything back yet.

The EGTs you see will vary depending on where you mount the probe. Ideally, you want to know the temperature inside the combustion chamber, since that is where the magic happens. Trouble is, there really isn't a simple, cost-effective way to get a probe mounted in there. The solution is to mount the probe as close to the exhaust port of the head, as in with a few inches AT THE MOST. The further you mount the probe from the combustion chamber, the more inaccurate your readings will become, since the heat of the exhaust gas column will have dissipated into the walls of the exhaust system. As for temps, many engines see up to 2,000*F in the chamber, over 1,800 in the exhaust may be a cause for concern. ~1,600*F during a WOT pull would be pretty normal.

The best Subaru to offroad is the cheapest one that meets your needs. If you're serious about offroading, this vehicle will get beat to hell and back and will NOT be a show winner. Buy something you aren't emotionally attached to, like a wheeler that someone already built.

Very cool!

Sucky... Sounds like you bought a "Friday car"...

I should have been more clear in my question. What is wrong with your car that required it to be in the shop for 55 days?

What specifically qualified your car as a lemon?

Is that gasket material a straight-through channel, or is it closed off at one end? I'm pretty sure the hardtop side window seals are molded closed at the top to limit water ingress. I'll keep my eyes open for a solution that is a bit closer to OE, but I will have to keep this in my back pocket in case I can't find anything.

The factory tires are a 225/50 section width, IIRC. I don't see why you couldn't move up to a 235/45 or a 245/40. I would start your search on www.tirerack.com. Look up the technical specs of the tires you're interested in and grab your measuring tape to see if they'll fit. (P.S., you'll probably have more luck with SVX-specific questions on one of the two SVX forums, or on the SVX facebook page.

The standard lift height for the older chassis seems to be about 4 inches, so I'd start with that. That'll give you enough clearance for 27 inch tires, maybe 28's if you want to trim/bash fenders. As far as other welding projects, heck just about anything! Bumpers, rock sliders, skid plates, subframe/lift-block connectors. Maybe have your students suggest some projects they'd be interested in?

The semi-trailing arms are virtually the same EA81-EA82, so it should be applicable.

Montana Tom, what is the warranty rate? My employer pays the national shop rate average of about $120/hour.

Kumho Solus KR21 - I'm happy.

You will probably be fine, as long as you lower you speed appropriately. Subarus in Europe have a higher tow rating than in the U.S., but they also have a much lower allowable maximum speed while towing. I don't know the exact numbers, but I'm sure you can find them without too much trouble with a quick web search.

On the road, yes, more caster will be beneficial. It will make more camber as you turn the steering wheel, the opposite is true of the 4WD chassis, they want less caster so that if you hit an obstacle, the wheel will be less likely to be ripped from your hands.

HelloFL - Nissan Leaf = $30k new, but you can find them slightly used for under $9k. The Mitsubishi i-MiEV is $22k brand new. These are just two examples of electric cars that cost less than a base model F150 pickup. Tesla's business model is incredibly brilliant. First product to market is aimed at rich folks with money to burn. Luxury cars have the highest profit margins, so use the rich folks money to fund the development of the Model 3 (with will cost less). Do some reading. This is an American company DESIGNING and BUILDING cars in America, using bleeding edge technology. If you can't get on board with that, well. I've got nothing for you... As for tax dollars, good grief. You know what else wouldn't exist without tax dollars? Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Chevrolet, Buick, Cadillac, Holden, GMC, Corvette, Viper, Hellcat.

Do us all a favor and enter your complaint here: https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/

Since you've already got a FSM, flip to the suspension section and look at the caster angles between the two models. You will see that the 2WD/Sedan has a bit more caster than the 4WD position. For your camber plates, you will probably want to make it adjustable so you can dial in a little more than stock.

CNY_Dave, I use a 4-inch C-clamp...

Electric vehicles a dream?! What year is this again, 1994? I mean, just Google "electric car wiki" and you'll see that there are, literally, dozens of electric cars (and motorcycles and bicycles) to choose from. From tiny city cars like the Mitsubishi MiEV to full-size grand touring sedans and SUVs like Tesla that can go hundreds of miles on a single charge. The future is now and it's electric. And it's not going anywhere.

Tell the owner to trade those Petes in and pick up some locally owned, locally sourced Kenworths! Keep it in the Washington family!

Welcome to the forum! Is that your Pete in your profile picture?

Right. I'm almost positive there is a passage in the owner's manual that will say something to the effect of, "Don't you dare add on any electrical accessories or tamper with our exquisitely executed electrical engineering." Every manufacturer creates schematics for their electrical systems, but they don't necessarily want to share that information if they don't have to, so they bury it in an expensive service manual.