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carfreak85

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Everything posted by carfreak85

  1. carfreak85
    On the hardtops? Apparently there are existing applications that will work. Dannybreadman apparently used 60's Camaro 1/4 window seals, but he hasn't responded to any of my messages regarding what he used...
  2. carfreak85
    Yes, brand new OEM IAC with a new OEM gasket.
  3. carfreak85
    You need to measure how much PAG oil is in the drier and top off the system with the same volume. You don't hear about a lot of people doing this because most people leave A/C repair to pro mechanics who have the proper recovery tools. There is an ideal ratio of oil to refrigerant. The idea is that if you open the system and replace a component, you should replace the amount of oil lost from the system in that failed component. If you use only 1% of your bottle of new PAG oil, so be it, that's all the system needs (Or just replace ALL the oil in your system).
  4. carfreak85
    I have a Tactrix cable and RomRaider loaded on my laptop. The problem is that I'm unable to copy/paste on USMB for some reason, which makes it tough to link to anything. I will try linking to my log file on a different PC.
  5. carfreak85
    Any progress on this project?
  6. carfreak85
    After recent developments and research by several different parties, it would appear that the EA81 Chassis still has the majority of window rubber available. Thus, I will be suspending my campaign for reproduction parts.
  7. carfreak85
    Still stalling...
  8. carfreak85
    I've had a MSD Blaster 2 coil on my EA81T for the last 12 years and it was on my friend's Jeep for a few years before that. Pertronix is well known as a quality manufacturer.
  9. carfreak85
    McBRAT, any chance you've found that brochure again?
  10. carfreak85
    If you have the original Briggs & Stratton engine I just found the FSM for that and I'd be happy to shoot you the link to it.
  11. carfreak85
    Maybe 15 years ago these symptoms would point to a specific problem, but these cars are over 30-years-old now. Anything could be failing at this point and there aren't enough of these cars on the road these days to call much of anything a common failure. Do you have a FSM, or perhaps the EA81T FSM supplement? First things first, check ALL your electrical grounds in the engine bay and under the dashboard. Make sure there is no corrosion, broken or frayed wires, missing wire insulation or broken connectors. After that I would inspect the ignition system. Take off the distributor cap and check for play at the rotor, there should be none. How does the coil look? Cracked or leaking oil? How does the harness between the distributor and coil look? Spark plugs and wires look ok? If all that checks out, let's move on to the fuel system. How is the fuel filter? How is the fuel pump and wiring? Put a long screw driver on each fuel injector while the engine is running and confirm that you can hear it firing in a consistent manner. Does your TPS have a smooth, clean sweep from idle to WOT when hooked up to a multimeter? I have seen the ECUs on these fail, so its possible that is your problem, but those are hard to find, so check everything else first.
  12. carfreak85
    Paul, if you have an uncracked, black '75 dash, let me know!
  13. carfreak85
    I have not had a chance to test the CTS yet, but it was suggested that my injectors might need cleaning. Any thoughts on that as a root cause?
  14. carfreak85
    Typing in complete sentences makes it simpler to understand and people will be more likely to read what you have to say and offer advice. Try typing out your post in MS Word or another word processing software, run spelling and grammar check, THEN post it here. As far as lifting, it sounds like you set out to build your own lift (I couldn't be bothered to read that ridiculous first-post run-on sentence. Unless you have built a Subaru lift before I would budget a lot longer than a single weekend to do it in.
  15. carfreak85
    "...keep it all original." Still not a good enough reason to keep that paperweight of a transmission in the BRAT. She longs to be clutched...
  16. carfreak85
    I will look up the test for the CTS when I get home today. My logs show pretty normal temps, but I'm not exactly staring at the readout as I drive down the road. How would I check for a leaky injector?
  17. carfreak85
    Shame on you for hammering on a brand new ball joint, lets hope you didn't damage either of them. Your problem is with the bore in the steering knuckle. It will most likely be filled with scaly rust, which has misshapen the nice concentric bore. You need to wire brush out that bore and make sure it is clean metal. Also, I like to put a generous coating of grease on the body of all new ball joints. The grease will be held in the small voids between the ball joint and its bore and will keep out moisture, easing installation and future removal.
  18. carfreak85
    Since I replaced the IAVC with a new part the engine doesn't stall as predictably as it used to, but the RPMs still drop to as low as 400 RPM at hot-idle. I was finally able to capture the behavior in a log file (but will have to attach the link later, can't copy paste for some reason). Are there any useful parameters that I left out? As you can see, my engine speed plummets to zero after hitting the clutch as I slow for a stoplight. I fiddled with the IACV connector and wiring harness this afternoon while the engine was running. I also sprayed the inlet/IC/manifold with starting fluid. Both tests proved inconclusive. I have noticed on two occasions, since the idle issue emerged, that the car was difficult to start after it had been sitting for two to three hours.
  19. carfreak85
    You can still buy these for the original application... Moog K9221
  20. carfreak85
    What makes you think an aluminum radiator is superior to copper? Don't use the stop leak, if you plan on keeping the car for any extended amount of time just bite the bullet and buy a new radiator/repair the old one.
  21. carfreak85
    The MAF and front o2 sensor were replaced as maintenance items. Had been throwing an o2 code under sustained WOT, but those was replaced months ago. I'll be doing some data logging on the way home from work today, so I'll have the MAF voltage data for review then. Most of the hoses have either a worm gear clamp on them, or at least two zip ties. The complex molded hoses were replaced with OEM rubber and the simpler ones were replaced with silicone. The inlet hose has been replaced with a Perrin inlet, all connections zip tied or clamped. The car runs really well when cold, and runs well when warm too, besides the low, hunting idle and stalling approaching a stop, when hot.
  22. carfreak85
    Ahhh, I knew I was forgetting to mention something... I replaced EVERY single hose at 90k miles (Currently @ 120k) when I replaced my shortblock, so I would be VERY surprised if anything was cracked or brittle at this point, but I will check that this afternoon.
  23. carfreak85
    About two weeks ago my WRX started stalling the engine when I would push in the clutch and shift to neutral as I came to a stop. It seems like as the engine comes up to temperature, it looses its ability to keep the engine at idle. Eventually I have to hold the throttle cracked open at idle to keep it running. If I coast, in gear, up to a stop and disengage the clutch just as engine RPM reaches hot-idle, I can keep it running, no problem. But if I come to a stop quickly and push in the clutch, the engine will immediately stall. There is NO high idle, only a gradual reduction of idle speed as the engine warms up. I haven't done much fiddling lately, besides replacing the MAF and front O2 sensors. I'm also not getting ANY OBD fault codes. Doing some research pointed to the IACV being gummed up. So I cleaned it, per the instructions on NASIOC. My drive to work involves about two miles of surface streets until I get to the freeway onramp, then about 8 miles of highway. There are three stop signs between my house and the freeway and about as many between the freeway offramp and my work. The car started pretty normal the next morning, but each time I stopped at a stop sign the idle would get lower and lower until the engine stalled as I pulled up to the stoplight at the onramp. Same story after driving on the highway, when I pulled up to a stop after exiting, the engine stalled. Some further reading of the IACV-cleaning post on NASIOC revealed that disassembly of the IACV could yield better cleaning results, but often the cleaned valve would fail within the next few months or years. I decided to just bite the bullet and replace the IACV with a new one. Same story. The engine started fine, but with each stop sign between my house and the freeway onramp, the engine would idle lower and lower until it stalled at the onramp. After the IACV, most folks suggest checking for vacuum leaks. I haven't done this yet, but I'm very doubtful that there are any. I haven't taken anything apart recently, save the new sensors, and the car was running perfectly normally up until two weeks ago. I plan to do some data logging tomorrow on my way to and from work, and will post the results here. So, anyone have any ideas? Fuel pump? Fuel pump relay? Bueller? Bueller? Bueller?
  24. carfreak85
    EA81T heads are not "better" than non-turbo heads, they just have bosses cast in them for the fuel injectors, otherwise they are pretty much identical.
  25. carfreak85
    What company were you in touch with? I haven't heard back yet, so I might have to ping them again...
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