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carfreak85

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Everything posted by carfreak85

  1. carfreak85
    Maybe 15 years ago these symptoms would point to a specific problem, but these cars are over 30-years-old now. Anything could be failing at this point and there aren't enough of these cars on the road these days to call much of anything a common failure. Do you have a FSM, or perhaps the EA81T FSM supplement? First things first, check ALL your electrical grounds in the engine bay and under the dashboard. Make sure there is no corrosion, broken or frayed wires, missing wire insulation or broken connectors. After that I would inspect the ignition system. Take off the distributor cap and check for play at the rotor, there should be none. How does the coil look? Cracked or leaking oil? How does the harness between the distributor and coil look? Spark plugs and wires look ok? If all that checks out, let's move on to the fuel system. How is the fuel filter? How is the fuel pump and wiring? Put a long screw driver on each fuel injector while the engine is running and confirm that you can hear it firing in a consistent manner. Does your TPS have a smooth, clean sweep from idle to WOT when hooked up to a multimeter? I have seen the ECUs on these fail, so its possible that is your problem, but those are hard to find, so check everything else first.
  2. carfreak85
    Paul, if you have an uncracked, black '75 dash, let me know!
  3. carfreak85
    I have not had a chance to test the CTS yet, but it was suggested that my injectors might need cleaning. Any thoughts on that as a root cause?
  4. carfreak85
    Typing in complete sentences makes it simpler to understand and people will be more likely to read what you have to say and offer advice. Try typing out your post in MS Word or another word processing software, run spelling and grammar check, THEN post it here. As far as lifting, it sounds like you set out to build your own lift (I couldn't be bothered to read that ridiculous first-post run-on sentence. Unless you have built a Subaru lift before I would budget a lot longer than a single weekend to do it in.
  5. carfreak85
    "...keep it all original." Still not a good enough reason to keep that paperweight of a transmission in the BRAT. She longs to be clutched...
  6. carfreak85
    I will look up the test for the CTS when I get home today. My logs show pretty normal temps, but I'm not exactly staring at the readout as I drive down the road. How would I check for a leaky injector?
  7. carfreak85
    Shame on you for hammering on a brand new ball joint, lets hope you didn't damage either of them. Your problem is with the bore in the steering knuckle. It will most likely be filled with scaly rust, which has misshapen the nice concentric bore. You need to wire brush out that bore and make sure it is clean metal. Also, I like to put a generous coating of grease on the body of all new ball joints. The grease will be held in the small voids between the ball joint and its bore and will keep out moisture, easing installation and future removal.
  8. carfreak85
    Since I replaced the IAVC with a new part the engine doesn't stall as predictably as it used to, but the RPMs still drop to as low as 400 RPM at hot-idle. I was finally able to capture the behavior in a log file (but will have to attach the link later, can't copy paste for some reason). Are there any useful parameters that I left out? As you can see, my engine speed plummets to zero after hitting the clutch as I slow for a stoplight. I fiddled with the IACV connector and wiring harness this afternoon while the engine was running. I also sprayed the inlet/IC/manifold with starting fluid. Both tests proved inconclusive. I have noticed on two occasions, since the idle issue emerged, that the car was difficult to start after it had been sitting for two to three hours.
  9. carfreak85
    You can still buy these for the original application... Moog K9221
  10. carfreak85
    What makes you think an aluminum radiator is superior to copper? Don't use the stop leak, if you plan on keeping the car for any extended amount of time just bite the bullet and buy a new radiator/repair the old one.
  11. carfreak85
    The MAF and front o2 sensor were replaced as maintenance items. Had been throwing an o2 code under sustained WOT, but those was replaced months ago. I'll be doing some data logging on the way home from work today, so I'll have the MAF voltage data for review then. Most of the hoses have either a worm gear clamp on them, or at least two zip ties. The complex molded hoses were replaced with OEM rubber and the simpler ones were replaced with silicone. The inlet hose has been replaced with a Perrin inlet, all connections zip tied or clamped. The car runs really well when cold, and runs well when warm too, besides the low, hunting idle and stalling approaching a stop, when hot.
  12. carfreak85
    Ahhh, I knew I was forgetting to mention something... I replaced EVERY single hose at 90k miles (Currently @ 120k) when I replaced my shortblock, so I would be VERY surprised if anything was cracked or brittle at this point, but I will check that this afternoon.
  13. carfreak85
    About two weeks ago my WRX started stalling the engine when I would push in the clutch and shift to neutral as I came to a stop. It seems like as the engine comes up to temperature, it looses its ability to keep the engine at idle. Eventually I have to hold the throttle cracked open at idle to keep it running. If I coast, in gear, up to a stop and disengage the clutch just as engine RPM reaches hot-idle, I can keep it running, no problem. But if I come to a stop quickly and push in the clutch, the engine will immediately stall. There is NO high idle, only a gradual reduction of idle speed as the engine warms up. I haven't done much fiddling lately, besides replacing the MAF and front O2 sensors. I'm also not getting ANY OBD fault codes. Doing some research pointed to the IACV being gummed up. So I cleaned it, per the instructions on NASIOC. My drive to work involves about two miles of surface streets until I get to the freeway onramp, then about 8 miles of highway. There are three stop signs between my house and the freeway and about as many between the freeway offramp and my work. The car started pretty normal the next morning, but each time I stopped at a stop sign the idle would get lower and lower until the engine stalled as I pulled up to the stoplight at the onramp. Same story after driving on the highway, when I pulled up to a stop after exiting, the engine stalled. Some further reading of the IACV-cleaning post on NASIOC revealed that disassembly of the IACV could yield better cleaning results, but often the cleaned valve would fail within the next few months or years. I decided to just bite the bullet and replace the IACV with a new one. Same story. The engine started fine, but with each stop sign between my house and the freeway onramp, the engine would idle lower and lower until it stalled at the onramp. After the IACV, most folks suggest checking for vacuum leaks. I haven't done this yet, but I'm very doubtful that there are any. I haven't taken anything apart recently, save the new sensors, and the car was running perfectly normally up until two weeks ago. I plan to do some data logging tomorrow on my way to and from work, and will post the results here. So, anyone have any ideas? Fuel pump? Fuel pump relay? Bueller? Bueller? Bueller?
  14. carfreak85
    EA81T heads are not "better" than non-turbo heads, they just have bosses cast in them for the fuel injectors, otherwise they are pretty much identical.
  15. carfreak85
    What company were you in touch with? I haven't heard back yet, so I might have to ping them again...
  16. carfreak85
    It appears that, for the time being, you can still order BRAT/sedan/wagon/hatch front windshield seals from the dealer, so we'll put those on the back burner for now. I'm in talks with a company that already does some reproduction work and has Subaru applications, but they don't list them on their web page. I will report back when I have more information, but they have said that we will get a price break at 10+ units per order.
  17. carfreak85
    Well it would appear that I'll need to do some additional detective work to determine the availability of seals.
  18. carfreak85
    At this time I'm really only focused on the front and rear windshield seals. We can look into Halo Roof seals, door/window seals, hatchback rear windshield and BRAT rear window seals based on interest.
  19. carfreak85
    http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/158865-feeler-ea81-reproduction-rubber-windshield-gaskets/
  20. carfreak85
    Hello USMB! Our beloved EA81 chassis is now well over 30-years-old and the parts supply is rapidly disappearing. Rubber parts, specifically, are mostly gone. In fact, RockAuto only lists the front windshield gasket and, as of this post, there is a single gasket left to order. My proposal is that we, as a community, band together like we did for the Gen-1 windshield gasket group buy, and have a run of parts made for the EA81 chassis. Right now, I'm thinking of four parts: BRAT/wagon/sedan/hatch front windshield gasket Wagon rear windshield gasket Coupe front/rear windshield gasket The first part is common across the listed body styles, so that makes perfect sense to me. I feel like the EA81 wagon is the most common body style still on the road, so it would make sense to target that application as well. I'm not an expert and have done exactly zero research on that, but it's my gut feeling. Finally the coupe has unique front and rear windshield gaskets, so it would need its own specific parts. Based on the previous group buy, I would estimate the cost per gasket to be between $50-80. These would be BRAND NEW rubber parts, not some 30-year-old NOS that has been sitting on a dusty shelf for the last three decades. So, who is interested? The minimum order will likely be around 50-units, so I'd hope we can get close to that number of members committed to buying. If you have any questions, comments or general input, please reply below and I will update this post with the usernames of interested parties.
  21. carfreak85
    Yes, EA81 coupe. I knew they were different, but I have no idea where to start looking for new rubber for this beast. Email sent...
  22. carfreak85
    Paul, how about Gen-2 hardtop rear windshield gaskets? Looks like I might be in the market for one of those shortly....
  23. carfreak85
    I'm having trouble pasting the link to the image on the forums. Got an email address I can shoot a link off to?
  24. carfreak85
    I'm in for a black 1975 dash if you've got one uncracked... Also interested in (for a 1975 wagon): 4WD bumpers F/R full set of 4WD mud flaps front valence panel (possibly front fenders too) side window seals, if in good condition front windshield Lots more, but I haven't looked at that car in some time and would need to jog my memory.
  25. carfreak85
    Emailed you.
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