carfreak85

You would be surprised. Emissions standards in the 80's were less stringent than they are today. Our ignition systems are batch fire, and IIRC, so are the EA MPFI systems. Batch fire of the injectors can also aid in cylinder cooling, but yes, will contribute to higher emissions.

As I understand it, you should lubricate the release fork pivot and the transmission input splines that the clutch rides on. Have you consulted the OEM factory service manual?

I haven't done anything with the secondary fan besides wire it to a switch. It isn't connected to a thermosensor, but I also live in a pretty temperate climate.

These are universal, you should be able to find them at your local auto parts store.

...And for worn out bushings for the pedal pivots, as well as wear on the shaft they ride on.

I've not played with my EA82T very much yet, still need to sort some codes before I start driving it hard. On my EA81T (custom SS header, catless 3" downpipe, 2" exhaust w/ Flowmaster muffler, stock otherwise) I've never had an issue with overboosting. Boost starts building at 1,250 rpm and I've got the full 7 psi by 2,000 rpm, so no real turbo lag to speak of.

Same here on our EJ253. Bit of a workout, buy really only takes about 120 seconds of effort per head to get them flat again. The setup and cleanup take more time than the actual resurfacing.

None of your photos are working for me from the last several months...

Last time I checked you could still buy all but one of the idler bearings new from Subaru of America.

Google doesn't show anything regarding a tax on low range-equipped vehicles, so I'm inclined to think this is not a real tax, nor the reason we stopped getting dual range transmissions. I would think total vehicle cost plays more into that decision than anything else.

This is news to me, I've never heard of such a tax...

If you're interested I can look for my original clutched fan. I replaced it with an electric fan.

The parts you mention would NOT be happy about road spray. Unless you live in L.A. and drive on pavement every day, I would always recommend running the belt covers.

Brake fluid or ACID?! Nonononononono, don't EVER use brake fluid to clean anything, especially rubber parts. Acid isn't a good solution either. Brake CLEANER, carb CLEANER, or even diesel fuel can be used to clean parts, but you need to be aware that some chemicals don't interact well with rubber parts.

I just picked up a NOS center armrest, P/N SOA120000 on this catalog!

My vote is the center diff is going bad. Not sure if/when they updated the design, but my 2002 is sitting until I find time to do the job.

Are these Philips bulbs LED? If the answer is "Yes," then that's why you're having light dispersion issues. Halogen headlamps are simply not designed to properly reflect an LED or HID light source.

I don't have a problem with torque bind, rather, it often feels like my AWD doesn't work. I'm suspecting the basket has some significant grooves worn in it, duty-C could be dead, clutch pack worn out? But no problems with binding.

Pay with a credit card so you can dispute the charges? I've never had a car shipped, so not much help in that regard, but always have a backup plan for any online arrangement or purchase.

My vote is EA81 transmission mounts have failed.

What additive do you speak of? Working for an OEM in the service/warranty department has always made me weary of additives.

Yes, fluid has been changed with the multi-flush method, tires are new and all match.

I've also been experiencing this "intermittent AWD" issue for several years on our '99 Forester. I'll be following along...

Read some of the tire tests and user reviews on www.tirerack.com. I ended up getting a set of Cooper Discoverer AT4 all-terrains for our SF6 forester.

Not Subaru engines, but here's one version of the answer: