carfreak85

Certainly is a nice, clean example! I do prefer the dual headlamps to the later quad-lamped face.

Just a thought on your installation based on my time working for a vehicle manufacturer. Applying a thermal barrier to a part will itself have some level of effectiveness, but if you design an air gap between the component, in your case the intake manifold, and the barrier, it will be MILES more effective at insulating from radiant heat. Once your thermal tape heat soaks, it will begin transferring the radiant heat from the block and coolant crossover into the manifold, albeit, at a slightly slower rate and over a slightly longer period of time than without it. This is why the exhaust heat shields either have a flame-retardant filling, or they encapsulate the exhaust pipe and have a 0.25-0.5 -in. gap between the pipe and the shield. I'm not trying to dissuade you from this project or trying to be critical, just trying to share some of the best practices we use in vehicle design and manufacturing to get the most out of your mods.

I think your efforts would be better spent isolating heat from the exhaust system and getting a clean, cool supply of intake air to the engine's inlet. The intake charge spends such a small amount of time flowing through the intake manifold that it really doesn't heat up that much, especially if it's already been compressed and heated by a turbocharger. Not that this idea wont help, but I don't think you would notice any difference on a dyno, for example. These engines aren't particularly efficient at turning fuel and oxygen into power, and the power levels are so low that we're talking 0-2 hp total for modifications at this level. A bigger radiator, some sort of high-flow water pump, lots of heat shields/ducting and a big intercooler would be more influential on engine performance and longevity.

It's certainly cheap enough to take a flyer on. Someone was fitting one of these to a HF Predator engine on one of the go-kart forums I'm on. Not sure how it turned out for him, but this application seems more inline with what that blower would fit. The listing does leave out a LOT of information that would be critical to know.

Well, not all exactly the same. The compressors changed at some point, and there are several P/Ns for evaporators, but if you didn't have A/C you should be able to swap in either of the systems.

Nope. I've poked around a couple EA82 DL models and at least one GL that didn't come with A/C. There is no evaporator under the dash (replaced with a simple plastic bellows) and the holes in the firewall have rubber plugs, they're not hiding any hardlines.

I remember talking to a board member who plumbed the turbo coolant outlet into the LH (N.A. driver's side) head. Might be worth looking into. IIRC he used an OEM hardline and straightened/re-bent it to reach the coolant port on the other cylinder head.

Short answer? No, and neither will an A/W IC.

They show up if I right click and "open image in new tab," but who wants to do that every time, for every image...? (Using Chrome browser, btw)

You would be surprised. Emissions standards in the 80's were less stringent than they are today. Our ignition systems are batch fire, and IIRC, so are the EA MPFI systems. Batch fire of the injectors can also aid in cylinder cooling, but yes, will contribute to higher emissions.

As I understand it, you should lubricate the release fork pivot and the transmission input splines that the clutch rides on. Have you consulted the OEM factory service manual?

I haven't done anything with the secondary fan besides wire it to a switch. It isn't connected to a thermosensor, but I also live in a pretty temperate climate.

These are universal, you should be able to find them at your local auto parts store.

...And for worn out bushings for the pedal pivots, as well as wear on the shaft they ride on.

I've not played with my EA82T very much yet, still need to sort some codes before I start driving it hard. On my EA81T (custom SS header, catless 3" downpipe, 2" exhaust w/ Flowmaster muffler, stock otherwise) I've never had an issue with overboosting. Boost starts building at 1,250 rpm and I've got the full 7 psi by 2,000 rpm, so no real turbo lag to speak of.

Same here on our EJ253. Bit of a workout, buy really only takes about 120 seconds of effort per head to get them flat again. The setup and cleanup take more time than the actual resurfacing.

None of your photos are working for me from the last several months...

Last time I checked you could still buy all but one of the idler bearings new from Subaru of America.

Google doesn't show anything regarding a tax on low range-equipped vehicles, so I'm inclined to think this is not a real tax, nor the reason we stopped getting dual range transmissions. I would think total vehicle cost plays more into that decision than anything else.

This is news to me, I've never heard of such a tax...

If you're interested I can look for my original clutched fan. I replaced it with an electric fan.

The parts you mention would NOT be happy about road spray. Unless you live in L.A. and drive on pavement every day, I would always recommend running the belt covers.

Brake fluid or ACID?! Nonononononono, don't EVER use brake fluid to clean anything, especially rubber parts. Acid isn't a good solution either. Brake CLEANER, carb CLEANER, or even diesel fuel can be used to clean parts, but you need to be aware that some chemicals don't interact well with rubber parts.

I just picked up a NOS center armrest, P/N SOA120000 on this catalog!

My vote is the center diff is going bad. Not sure if/when they updated the design, but my 2002 is sitting until I find time to do the job.