carfreak85

There is a reason they don't install EA82s in experimental aircraft... What company builds that setup?

Get it, but not for $3K. If you decide you don't like it, you can always sell it to me!

When is it? I've been itching for a road trip...

Any updates?

Glad to hear the parts car worked out for you, mostly, it sounds like. One benefit of really rusty cars is easy disposal. You can practically kick them into a pile of dust and sweep them into the garbage. Keep those photos coming!

Uhhh, my tach just started doing this... Anyone figured out a soultion yet? Anyone have a NOS tach sitting around? I'm 90% sure the tach and speedo, if not all the gauges, are removable from the cluster.

Seriously cool stuff Corky, I have a NOS set of the side emblems if you'd like to show them to your resto guy as a reference. I'd like to see your coupe in the flesh sometime too.

+1 Thats why we became members here, er, for the counseling, not the flame-throwers...

Hahahaha, BRATFINK!!! Looks like a fantastic start and I know I'll be ordering at least one. I would suggest however, removing the flames, just too busy with them in the drawing, in my opinion. And dude, we know Brats didn't have beam front axles, c'mon!

Take that digital door-stop and throw it as far out to sea as possible. I'm VERY pleased with my analog dash swap and will NOT be looking back.

They'll work. I've got a set of Yokohama race tires on a set of Enkei wheels, works fine.

Cheap tricks in a V8 pickup. Looks good though. I like the primered look with black wheels, very undercover.

Eventually, yes it will probably break on any of the transmissions. The rear portion of the drive train was only designed for half the vehicle's power. Putting 100% through the back and going crazy with drifting, burnouts and such, things probably won't last too long. I'll let you know how it works out on mine... .

You've got me thinking now Tex. How can I make our shop more secure... :-\

I've got a couple that I need to tend to anyway, what does this procedure require? Resetting gears or anything like that? Can new syncros and seals still be bought from Subaru?

I wasn't trying to dissuade you from this project and I'm willing to lend as much knowledge as possible, as well as stealing any data that can be applied to my wagon. Do you have any pictures of the car to share?

I guess I have some experience in this department. Three of my friends, all in the same span of time, bought three 944s of various trims and years. All three were bought on a budget or with purchase price as a major deciding factor. All three were maintained by the owners, for the most part and the three cars combined to cover just about every repair imaginable. From their experiences, this is what I have gleened... Parts are expensive. Pelican Parts is a good place to shop, plus they have helpful, USMB-esque forums! Most 944s were originally purchased by less affluent enthusiests leaving most with spotty maintenence histories. Buy the best example money will buy and have it checked by a Porsche mechanic before cash changes hands. If the timing belt breaks, engine=toast. A special tool is needed to install and torque the belts, so be weary of repairs in this department by the home mechanic. Check your grounds! You can carry three guys and three Peugeot wheels/tires or two guys and a full set of pugs. If you install a stereo with a sub, ditch the spare tire and build a box to fit under the rear carpet. More cargo space, out of the eyes of theives. Handles great, looks great, lots of OEM and aftermarket love compared to Subarus and some collector value built into the later Turbo S and Silver Rose editions/968. Not AWD... I'll close this brain dump by saying that all three of these friends own/ed turbo charged Subarus after selling their 944s. 1991 Legacy SS, 1994 Legacy Touring Wagon, 2002 WRX sportwagon.

You didn't mention at what level you were planning on competing on... Local, regional, national. In my opinion, you could build an RX to be a great local/regional racecar, but unless you are an unholy awesome driver, you won't get far with this platform. This chassis is old, unloved and underdeveloped. Most of the mods you would be doing would be homebrewed. There really aren't any "bolt-on" mods. That being said, if you're just doing this for the love of Fuji, it would be a fun build and would surely entertain everyone here. Just want to let you know the realities of competing with an unloved, obsolete car. I've done one autocross event in my '84 GL turbo wagon (countless events in WRXs and STis) and there were a lot of things I would want to change. Let me know if you have any setup questions.

Nope... Looks like crap man. You should take them off and sell them to me for REAL cheap. Ugliest wheels ever made for a Subaru! JK, looks really good!

Go on... Used aircraft parts? SUB4 perhaps?

That is pretty effing sick! :slobber: LOVE the stance, although impractical for me, it looks like it would make a great snow plow!

I have one of the mufflers off my friend's Mustang's old Flowmaster American Thunder exhaust system. Not a glass pack, but still not a straight through design, which probably hurts the power some. My reasoning for using it? 1) It was free. 2) It has 2.5" inlet and outlets. 3) It is pretty thin in the vertical plane giving me more ground clearence. 4) It was free. Video here: http://rides.webshots.com/video/3001985700044565751uYvAhl?vhost=rides BTW, its a turbocahrged car, so your results may differ, but it is a FlowMaster.

Dyno proven or seat of the pants? Subaru uses unequal length headers because they are cheap to engineer and manufacture. 90% of the engines Fuji makes are more about smooth, quiet operation rather than out and out performance. To have an equal length header actually do its job, a lot of CFD and math needs to be put into the design to achieve the desired effects. This is money that can be saved by making a header that simply merges two seperate exhaust flows into a single pipe (Then split it again on newer ones for the 100% pointless dual mufflers). Subaru's Group N challenger, the STi Spec C, uses a twin scroll turbocharger which has a similar effect as EL headers in that it is more efficient at extracting power from the exhaust pulses. I'm not sure if that car uses EL headers. The "boxer rumble" or deep bass-like boom is not a Subaru only thing. The poorly yet cost effective headers Subaru uses do make it more pronounced, but like many have mentioned already, air-cooled VWs also emit a classic boxer burble. Follow any Porsche and you will hear the deep rumble from their posteriors. Based on this we can conclude that despite all the different styles of exhausts, port design, bore/storke ratios, fuel systems or induction tuning, all horizontally opposed engines make something like a "boxer rumble". As for how you can enhance it, uncork the exhaust (Not the intake) and make the headers MORE unequal. Beyond that I have no idea.

Siiiiiiiick! Just the kind of thing I'm looking for! Could you email those charts to me? car_freak85 at hotmail dot com What type brand of dyno was it?