carfreak85

Good thinking, never would have posted on CL. Also remembered that one of my co-workers dates a Japanese girl and speaks a little too. He helped with a few things, but he can't actually read REAL Japanese characters, just english that has been written in Japanese, so the hunt is still on.

Hahahahahaha, I like that idea.

Show us how to mount 'em then!! Pics please!

What kind of wheels are on the two-toned brumby?

Is it just me or do all those pictures wheels look familiar to anyone else?

Love that old school scooby knowledge. I've got some JDM info brewing, but that will have to wait for another thread. Also, based on the '84 factory specs manual I just picked up that the 1984 1.8 4WD sedan was the A3 vin code. The same manual also specifies that the SOA166 200 and SOA165 630 winch kit should not be fitted to the Turbo models, interestingly enough. I can attest that an EA81T with any sort of cooling problems would not be helped by a winch mounted in front of the radiator.

Wow, I completely forgot about this thread! Glad I found it again. GD, good thinking on the secondary control unit. I think that will probably be the simplest, most cost efficient solution. I've already got a lot going on under the dash on my red wagon, but depending on the size of the control unit, I might be able to spare some real estate on the passenger's side.

Sorry, I have no idea if Sparco makes anything for cars older than about 15-20 years old. I should ask them, maybe tonight when I get home from campus, but I really doubt they will have anything.

I just stumbled across a bunch of Japanese magazines that I can't read. If I were to scan them, who on the USMB could translate them for me?

Same here. Did you ever find out if Sparco seats will mount to those Corbeau mounts? Are the mounts sliders, or fixed?

Yeah, it would be nice to be able to set a deadline for finishing projects, etc.

A few guys I went to high school with had Gen 1 'runners and they swore by them. I think they all still have them, actually. Congrats on the purchase, that looks like one helluva rig right out of the box, best part is, someone else did all the work! Have fun with it!

One could just get new seals from Subaru and refurbish the pump to be installed.

+1, I really like running around in RWD, except for the soft, squishy rear diff mounting bushings, I need to fill them with urethane.

Read this completely and then perform the mods and take lots of pictures. http://www.faberit.com.au/rxrally/Pics/RX_Docs/index.html

ATF and PS fluid are both hydraulic fluids, so it shouldn't matter.

You might be able to get one of the EA82 brackets they make and mod them to fit your car, but I don't see any on their list that would bolt in. Ask them if Sparco seats mount to their brackets without mods. I've got one but like you, don't trust my fabrication skills, or those of my friends for that matter, to keep me safe in the accident I'll inevitably get into.

Third that. M10x1.25 BUT, if you have EGR ports on the bottom of your engine, you need a 60mm long stud. The regularly stocked length at my local dealership was WAY too short.

Wow, that looks a lot like my hatch, minus the EJ and all the powder coated bits. Keep up the good work and take as many pictures as you can!

Momo's was discontinued a LONG time ago. If you bid on those ebay ones, you will probably be contacted by the seller later saying they don't have the correct part. I thought the Grant one was still available, but never liked their steering wheels. If those are both dead, I think you're SOL.

+1.

So my girlfriend's car has been throwing the same code for a couple weeks now. Scanned and cleared the codes and the only one there was the coolant temp circuit. Should I just replace the CTS or could this be a more sinister problem?

I'll say it for a third time in two days. Drilled/slotted rotors are FOR SHOW ONLY! The whole reason they were invented was to allow the gas created from heat reacting with binders in the friction material that built up as old school racing brake pads (years and years and years and years and years ago) could have a place to escape without the gas being trapped between the pad and rotor, decreasing brake performance. We no longer have this out-gassing problem with any brake pads, so the whole reason these slots/drills were invented is pointless. Except that they look cool. Secondly, Subaru might not have designed a 90/10 F/R brake proportioning valve, but you can bet it was close. Weight transfer shifts a ton of weight up front (If you really want to know I can give you the method for calculating this weight transfer to apply to your own cars). This means less traction for the rear tires and consequently, less need for rear brake power. Sorry, I just woke up and don't quite remember all that I was going to say. I took a class on chassis/suspension/brake design last quarter. I'll go check my notes and get back to you guys on what the brake balance probably is later today.

Just a couple thoughts about brakes on old Subarus... Stay away from drilled/slotted rotors, I can't say it enough. Your wish list should look something like this: Rear: -Rear disc conversion -new BLANK brembo rotors (or whatever you want to spend $ on) -Quality pads. NOT Raysbestos or that type of common pad (Try Hawk or Axxis) -Rebuild your calipers Front: -Rear disc conversion -new BLANK brembo rotors (or whatever you want to spend $ on) -Quality pads. NOT Raysbestos or that type of common pad (Try Hawk or Axxis) -Rebuild your calipers Then go spend the money on 3 bottles of Motul RBF600 brake fluid. It has a dry boiling point of over 600*F. Valvoline is a good, cheap substitute, but its DBP is closer to 500*F. Finally, I just watched a show on SPEED where a 2009 WRX stopped from 60MPH in 118 feet or so. An article I recently read on a 1975 Subaru 4WD wagon listed its 60MPH stopping distance at 120 ft... With stock four-wheel DRUM brakes. Chew on that for a while. GD, I'm also gonna have to disagree with you about the importance of brakes on a 90hp car. With brakes as small as ours are, we need as much heat sink capacity as possible, so anything you can do can and will help... Except for those pointless drilled/slotted rotors.

It is the opinion of several industry leading specialists that with modern brake pad composition, drilled/slotted rotors are not necessacry for out-gassing, a byproduct of pad construction in the past. The loss of mass hurts the rotor's ability to act as a heat sink. But, Porsche and other manufacturers have slotted and/or drilled rotors, you may think. Pure fashion. They would be better off with sold rotors too, but people like the look. Find yourself some Hawk performance pads for the front, rear disc conversion for the rear, some high quality rotors, good brake fluid and call it good.