carfreak85

Someone convinced a company to manufacture stiffer rear torsion bars for the EA81. I forget the company, but they're available today.

It's quite simple to lower an EA81, I typed the instructions out in the first post. The pictures would be nice to reference, but it's literally remove and replace the 4WD struts/shocks with 2WD parts. Re-clocking the torsion bar is the most difficult part and even that is quite straight forward, even if it takes some finesse to free the bar/trailing arm assembly from the torsion bar tube and rear height adjustment mechanism.

VDC-equipped have a native 50:50 split that can bias more torque rearwards, they are not FWD-biased.

If you're in SoCal, I think an annual inspection and relube would be sufficient, unless you find the bushings wearing out. If you off-road or drive in dusty conditions, check more frequently. Some anti-roll bar bushings have a "knurled" interior that helps retain additional grease and can help extend the time between inspections, so check for that feature.

I've still got photos on my Photobucket account, and I created a thread here, IIRC. Found it:

The ECU temp sensor doesn't trip a CEL based on temperature, all it's doing is telling the ECU that the engine is up to temp. If you're getting a Code 21, it's because: A) the sensor has failed, or, the harness is damaged/corroded.

Depends on where you install it. If its a stationary bushing, like for the rear differential, yes, poly is a great material for that. Control arm or lateral links though? Poly doesn't like rotational forces unless you plan to lubricate them regularly. I prefer SuperPro brand poly bushings, but I've also used Nolathane and Whiteline in the past.

I guess I should mention that when we camp with the Forester I remove the rear seat and cargo area floor and install a custom sleeping platform that I actually fit onto (6'1"). You have to slide the front seats all the way forward, recline them forwards to the dash, then flip out the headrests for the sleeping platform. Custom cut mattress topper foam (4 -in. thick) and custom cut window covers. Wish I had some photos handy...

My vote for a cheap, modern Subaru would be a 98-02 Forester, pick your flavor of transmission. I'm normally a MT kind of guy, but I'll happily take a 4EAT for off-roading and driving to the ski lodge.

You'll need to lengthen the arm on the EA81 clutch pedal to fully disengage the clutch. This doesn't get mentioned often, I hope I'm not an outlier in this, but after several years I began having trouble with shifting. I replaced the worn clevis pin on the clutch cable with no change. I ended up holding an EA81 and EA82 clutch pedal side-by-side and while they're very similar, the later pedal has a longer arm attached to the cable, hence, more "pull."

A branded version of Barr's Stop Leak was authorized by SoA to help limp EJ25 engines to the end of their powertrain warranty periods before the HGs finally let go and would have to be repaired on Subaru's dime. Had there not been HG issues with the EJ25 in the first place, be absolutely certain that SoA would NEVER recommend servicing the engine oil, or coolant systems, with anything other than the recommended fluids. I base the above knowledge on my experience as a senior design engineer at a vehicle manufacturer.

Two inches is fine for your 2.5. That EJ-turbo header you installed already killed any additional power you would have made from the exhaust.

Code 21 (on my '87) is for the coolant temperature sensor, passenger's side, behind the intake manifold. Either the sensor is going bad or the harness has corroded, probably some of both, based on my experience. You can buy replacement electrical connectors, it's the same style plug used for the fuel injectors on a MPFI EA82 engine.

I don't have the photos anymore, the hard drive was damaged years ago. @franbev this thread has nothing to do with the factory height adjustment.

I've got a couple spare tubes, shoot me a PM.

Gahhh!!! Headlamp washers, side indicators, high roof wagon, rear seat head rests... I want all these fun parts!!!

I'm sure it's less of an issue in North Hollywood, but there isn't a chance in hell I'd ever run without timing covers. The factory rally cars, rallycross cars, the Isle of Mann car, AND the Nürburgring 24hr car all use timing covers. That's a good enough reason for me.

I would seriously recommend against using a stop-leak fluid for your oil leak. Those additives tend to make a mess inside your engine and for the most part, they don't even work. As mentioned above, I would take a look and try to find the source of the leak and fix that. My guess is the oil separator plate on the back of the engine, valve cover gasket or possibly the head gasket itself.

The Enkei gold is different from the gold used on 2.5RS/STI wheels. It is more pale and has no "flake" in it versus the yellow-gold of the Subaru gold. As suggested, just ask to see a swatch of gold shades and pick the one you prefer.

I would never install a physically smaller filter. The reason a smaller filter increases oil pressure it due to a flow restriction, which is not a good thing when it comes to the lubricating lifeblood of your engine.

@GeneralDisorder

Check the last post date... OP hasn't visited the site since 2017...

OP, did you ever get this car running well?

This is a poor way to update the lug pattern. A 5-lug swap nets better geometry, stronger wheel bearings, larger brakes and a wider array of replacement items like rotors, pads, calipers, etc. If that's too large a project, redrilling the hubs for a 6x5.5" lug pattern gets you bolt on wheels that can be found anywhere, in any size.

REALLY?! Was this due to excessive failures or it wasn't profitable? Our Forester has two SoA reman front axles...