carfreak85

Yesterday I trimmed the underside of the shifter area to clear the EA81 style 4WD shifter. After seeing what needed to be done, the current setup is a prototype. A LOT of material had to be removed around the shifter hole to clear the drive selector and it will look kind of cheesy until I figure out how to deal with that. Now the work begins on the stereo, power mirror switch and gauges. I test fit the stereo from my old setup and it appears that I will have enough room to mount the stereo comfortably, but I'll have to remove the console to unplug the head unit, so space back there will be tight for sure.

Lets hope you're right Shawn! I still need to mount my Autometer water-temp sender. One of the locations I found that would have worked was filled by some silly thermo-valve. This was below the thermostat housing. Today's swap update: Brake lights work now! Boost and A/F ratio gauges now permanently mounted on the steering column, and the turbo timer is mounted up, but only wired half way. I'm still working on that. The gauges are all buttoned up now, just fine tuning a few warning lights and other things. I also continued work on the 2WD console swap. Need to start cutting up the new face for the stereo mount, bringing it up to the same standard that was met with my dash set-up; version 2.1. That one was pretty much perfect, but could be better... You'll just have to check it out at the WCSS.

Well, I searched the interwebs long and hard, but I finally found the correct part number for the vented EA81 front rotor from Brembo. They are here now along with EA82 Brembo rear rotors. Pads are from Hawk and Axxis. All I need now is some Motul RBF600, stainless braided lines and two sets of caliper rebuild kits. All of the above equals the opposite of -->

The research continues... I installed the upper 2WD mounting bracket and modified the lower bracket to fit the drill holes in the factory 4WD transmission tunnel. The shifter is indeed very close to the console, but I think it will work out. I also need to verify that the modern stereo will still clear the shifter and heater core.

Status report: Yesterday afternoon and evening saw me installing and testing the analog gauge cluster. Because the car is still immoble, I can't test the speedo or tach, but the illumination works as does the clock and warning lights. The car also starts, but I can't quite drive it yet. The only things holding me back now are these: 1) Fuel gauge shows empty, but we knew that because of the differences in the senders. 2) The brake lights aren't hooked up right now, different style connector... 3) I've been told the water temp sensor needs changing, but I havn't confirmed this on my set up, but we will see... 4) I don't have any mileage on this set up, so who knows how reliable it will be. Pics to come.

Tires are on the move, just leaving Nebraska today! Hopefully they'll be here in time for the show. $50 a piece, gotta love those closeout prices!!

News about the AutoX cancellation = weak sauce...

I think you're right on the pressures. Even so, imagine what a freshly rebuilt and clean OEM injectors could do with the upped pressure and a 5th injector upstream. I'm hoping that won't be necessary after the bump in fuel pressure, but that would mean more money, and I already have the ARRFPR. What are you guys running as far as fuel pumps to back these larger injectors?

I'm not even sure which wires do what on my TT, but I found a really nice ground, e-brake and a switched power. I'm not sure if I can use the power signal because it only gets a signal in the ON position, not ACC. Plus, the translated version of the Blitz installation manual is very short and I'm sure something must have skipped the translation.

Well the engine that these injectors came out of is the same as the EVO engine, just with the head on backwards. I expect the injectors from each engine to be fairly similar because of that. Is there enough room for the bolts with the modified injector housing, or will they bottom out? Just noticed that and wondered about it. What about just cranking up the fuel pressure instead of new injectors? Old subies run a lower-than-standard pressure, and I'd be willing to bet they are rated for flow at that lower pressure. I beleive it is something like 38 PSI and the industry standard WAS 43-48 or something.

So what is the deal with the AutoX? Has anything been figured out yet? Off-site? If so, about how far? When is it planned to be scheduled? Won't interfere with the show and shine will it?

Just an update: Finishing up on the analog dash conversion and turbo timer install. I'll add more to this post when I have results.

Did anyone ever get this figured out? I've got mine intalled, but not wired yet. Which wires for the ignition do I need to tap into?

Nice to see another road racing subie! I haven't gotten mine out on a track yet, but sometimes I feel like the only member around here who still races on pavement! Your car looks great, no suprise since your team did so well! Congrats, you guys have earned it!

Would anyone be interested in getting a set on my order? I'm getting a really good deal on these and if someone else were down for a set, we could get a better price and save on shipping, if you're local to me that is.

Bump for the same questions as post #54.

No, they are only good for scrap but the only place that will take those for scrap is my house... Do exactly as I say... Ed, I sent you a PM about the wheel.

The link to the previously posted web site has sold out. I found some on Ebay for cheaper. Made an offer on six tires in the 205/60/13 size. Fingers crossed!

I made some good progress last weekend, more than I thought I would at least. Got the entire passenger's side done. Just need to double check the wiring manual to be sure the connectors that still don't have mates are unused. Still need to do that on the driver's side, but there are a few more on that side. Then I need to get a battery in the car and start firing systems up to ensure they still operate correctly, if at all. On a side note, I got the turbo timer's "brain" installed. I found a nice spot behind the HVAC controls. I wanted to mount the EBC there too, but the temperature controll cable was creating problems, so I left it alone. I might get a little more creative with a solution in a week. After that, I can devote my full attention to the car and it will be a straight thrash to get the car up to snuff for WCSS10.

Any news regarding axles and EA81 chassis?

Very cool! I'm planning a similar set up for my wagon using RX and GL trannies.

Awwww, why would you get those wheels? They are hard to find replacements for if you bend one, and they aren't even that good looking. Best thing to do would be send them up to me... Don't even think about asking for center caps, they have all long since been lost. Don't even bother looking for any, your search will be fruitless.

Go for the bilsteins!!! Second choice would be the Gas-A-Justs.

Has anyone else tried this mod recently?

So could I just buy a set of WRX front and rear lines from my manufacturer of choice and simply bolt them on?