carfreak85
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Posts posted by carfreak85
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I don't know about anyone else, but I always coat the body of the ball joints, the pocket in the knuckle, and the bolt shank with high temp grease. I don't live in the Rust Belt, but I do take frequent trips to the ski hill in the worst weather conditions, but I've never had parts rust together either.
If reusing the ball joint or tie rod ends I use a removal tool and the Company 23 ball joint extraction tool when they're being replaced in the knuckle.
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11 hours ago, brus brother said:
whoah, did you say pop the ball joint out and no big deal in the same sentence??
Not sure about the op in Italy but here in the northeast rust belt, that ball joint is usually rust welded in place.
It's not hard once you invest in the proper tools.
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Lifting by the rear diff is no problem, but as the OP noted, it does put an extra stress on the rubber bushings. I would not leave a car suspended by the rear diff for an extended period, just for lifting and lowering for maintenance.
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Thanks Paul, saw this on FB!
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Do you have the EA81T FSM supplement? I think there is one on eBay right now.
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On 5/24/2020 at 9:30 AM, 910GL said:
So this catches the story up to "now."
A couple other minor things I'm doing for the new motor: I'm putting some WRX headers on it (because I like the unequal length header sound), and put an aftermarket aluminum thermostat housing on it because the headers are going to be close. I had to cut the exhaust manifold flanges off the stock headers and weld them to the WRX headers to drop them down another 1/2" or so to clear the thermostat. I had to source some longer threaded rods to mount the thicker manifold flanges. Also put a "T" on the oil pressure sensor to put on an aftermarket sender, and also an aftermarket water temp sender to run some aftermarket gauges.
Your car already had unequal length runners on the exhaust manifold. Could also install the oil pressure sender on one of the unused ports on the PS side of the block, no need for a "tee" or additional leak point.
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Give them a call?
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Nope, never heard of them. I try to stay with the bigger outfits in case something goes wrong, and only roll the dice if I can have a layer of protection, like a CC or PayPal buyer's protection.
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Not a bad idea. I'll have another look at it over the long weekend.
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The upper hose neck on your radiator has a hairline crack it's normal on the turbo Subarus around this age. The one on my 2002 WRX let go about five years ago. I replaced it with a Koyo all-aluminum Hyper Core. Perfect fit, fan mounting hardware included and not too expensive if you grab one on sale or from a company with deals ongoing and free shipping.
Rallysportdirect.com has free shipping on orders over $200, I bought the BRZ Koyo rad for the RX-RA from MAPerformance.com. I would just look up the part number and search for it on Google Shopping, see who has it cheapest.
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Do you meant the bolts holding the corner brackets to the bumper frame? Luckily those weren't rusty, but the plastic clips from the bumper skin the secure it to the steel frame, there are so many of them and they all seem to need to release at the same time...
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There are also paints you can use to coat the inside of a boxed weldment, but I'm forgetting what it's called...
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@moosens is supposed to pull out his '85 FSM to look up something for me, maybe he can help two birds with one book, if he sees this?
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I can see the clips on the back side of the bumper but I only have two hands and there are somewhere around 15 clips that all feel like they'd need to be released at the same time for the skin to peel away. Hard to get that many hands in one place during a pandemic!
Hoping the early EA82 FSM provides some hints.
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New carb? Used carb? Did you replace the fuel filter at the same time?
Sounds like the accelerator pump isn't doing it's job.
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Knuckles are the same from '85 through the loyale in '94, there are only two part numbers for the EA82, LH and RH. Doesn't matter what type of steering the vehicle has.
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We need to figure something out as a community. The rear shocks are fairly easy to have made custom, but a dried up supply for front struts could literally be the death knell of the EA81 chassis.
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Ahhhh, FPM, not FSM... I've got an 85-90 parts catalog, same illustration. Looking for the how-to instructions from the 85-86 FSM.
I do appreciate the help though Paul, you're a gentleman and a scholar.
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I bought mine from MAPerformance during a Black Friday sale, but the best price appears to be at Sohi Performance now, free shipping too: http://sohiperformance.com/i-1974983.aspx
It will require some modification, which was pretty scary with a brand new part, but it does fit pretty nicely. I'm not done installing it yet, but @Nico has and can provide more insight. If you have Instagram you can see some of the modifications on my page: @templeoffuji
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Last visited June 2019...
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No, those are for EA82 chassis. They might work, but aren't the correct part for your EA81 chassis. Rock Auto shows a Gabriel strut for the front, but is currently out of stock.
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The radiator out of a BRZ has a core that is pretty much perfect for the EA82 chassis, I've modified an aftermarket Koyo radiator in my '87. @Nico has the same radiator with a slightly different mounting system.
Not sure about the EA81s, I think there is an outfit in Australia that has large aftermarket aluminum radiators, but the shipping to the states costs more than the radiator.
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Any luck with this Paul?
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That is the style of mount that will fit rain gutters, unless you're willing to remove the trim I don't know how else you would mount a roof rack without attaching it directly to the sheet metal?
Coolant Leak! need advice and moral support
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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I'd be surprised if your running more than a few degrees cooler, only because the factory coolant temperature gauge is basically a three position pointer. The needle will sit in the middle of the gauge for a much wider range of temperatures compared to the lower 1/3 and upper 1/3 of the gauge.
The coolant temp gauge on my 1987 Toyota Tercel has no filter on the circuit and you can see the needle rise a bit when stopped at a light, and fall when the fans come on or the thermostat opens. This sort of movement scares people, so manufacturers started building temp gauges that were more sloth like to prevent scared drivers.