carfreak85

WHAT?!?!? You're more local than I am, GO FIND THEM!!! I want those heads, whaaaaaa!!!

No demand from me! I have redrilled hubs (4x114.3) and just got some SICK adapters (4x100). I'll have to see which one works better because those adapters are awefully thick and will require an offset of 40 or more to get close to the stock wheel offset with the seven inch wide rims I'm planning on running. :-\ I'll report back once I find a suitable set of wheels.

Its either Sub4 or Ram Performance. One of those companies made heads with dual intake ports/single exhaust ports (Ram I think). The other had dual in, dual out (Sub4 I think). Also built to the tune of $1500 and $2000 USD respectively.

There is more benifit to be had by converting to dual intake ports than dual exhaust ports.

More like just lowrider, hahaha. Its in RWD mode right now.

Are you going to clean up the intake port on the top of the head? There is a large ridge that can be ground down to increase the passage's cross sectional area. Are you willing to modify an additional set or two of heads? I need one for my wagon and one for a hi po N/A EA81. Make sure you get a before and after flow rate, so we can compare the two.

For those looking to upgrade the handling of their Gen 2 cars, the route is fairly simple. By using factory parts and the upgrade path forged by FHI we can lower our cars a few inches without hurting the ride too badly. Mine is 4WD but this should also apply to 2WD cars, but the effects will be less in the front. FRONT: For the front, find some EA81T front springs as they are almost .5" shorter with a slightly higher spring rate. Then source some 2WD front struts since the miminum length is over an inch shorter than a 4WD strut as well as having a longer stroke (always a good thing for McPherson strut suspensions). Make sure that you install the strut tops so they match your drivetrain. Thats it, we're done! Put the new parts back in! REAR: The rear is almost easier. Again, find a set of 2WD rear struts and install them. To lower the rear, just unbolt the trailing arm and the small bolt on the bottom of the torsion bar housing. Hammer out the torsion bar ONE AT A TIME and reclock by one notch. Two is possible, but unless you remove your bumpstops the ride will suffer. Finished! NOTE: I lowered my wagon by one notch in the rear and it still contacts the bump stops on some bumps. I trimmed them and the ride improved, so you can fix the problem by trimming an inch or so off the rear bump stop.

Has your ECS light come on at all? You might want to connect the green, two pole connectors under your dash and see if you pull any codes. There is a procedure for checking the flashes and codes in the USRM.

This is bad news for EA81 owners contemplating a similar swap (). My EA82 DR 5er is virtually bursting the seams of my 3EAT tunnel. I'm thinking along the lines of a custom subframe that would lower the engine/trans slightly while moving it back at the same time.

Sweetness, keep us updated!!! Caboob, I wanna see your coupe once those brakes are on there. And when the SuperPros go on...

As they often say: "If you don't have anything nice to say... SHUT THE **** UP!" First off who of us really knows if this guy is serious or not about this? He has a sweet idea that obviously nobody has tried before (there are those who may never take on such a build, they just want to tell you why you shouldn't). Instead of guessing on his real intentions, why not give him some CONSTRUCTIVE criticism? I'll start: As has been mentioned in previous posts, the STi engine should shoehorn in there with few hurdles. The 6 speed will be a bear to get to work with the DCCD, but (here comes the constructive part:) the 06-07 Legacy Spec Bs have the same trans without DCCD, so if you can find one of those wrecked, grab its tranny. That would remove a lot of unnecessary complexity and extra wiring. As GD said this swap IS wiring. If you plan on having someone else do the wiring for you, find someone knowledgeable and local (like Suberdave) who will be able to visit you and the car (it will be non-op for quite a while) to do the work. I have similar asperations of putting an EJ turbo engine in a GL for cheap. The difference is that I'm on a LONG time table to finish and I look for great deals on the parts I need which makes the process even longer. Don't let the nay-sayers keep you down. Lots of folks have done this swap (If not here then on the AUSUBARU board) and those who have done it will step forward and offer their help (Like some have already).

PM sent.

Just uploaded some scans of the FSM EA81T supplement. Check out my photos, also let me know if you need any other pages.

Work begins... Pics to follow.

Even the factory pressure switch? I won't have my FSMs or supplements until later tomorrow. I'll look then.

I have never had a problem like that, I wish I could be more helpful.

SS headers and downpipes with the factory turbo flanges or EJ-IHI turbo style flanges. Stainless braded brake line sets. Tune up kits (plugs, wires, filters, etc)

I've been keeping an eye on this item on ebay... Just waiting for proper fundage to arrive. It is SLIGHTLY larger than a factory EA81 AT front anti-roll bar. I also agree that a rear bar will have a greater noticable effect on the chassis balance, but I have been advised that on cars with poor front camber having a roll bar that is traditionally "too stiff" will help to keep the front end from leaning too much, actually improving front end grip.

I like the idea on a high HP ej turbo engine but, unfortunatly for us, there is a coolant passage running through the intake manifold on this generation engine. There may be gains, but for this application the parts would have to be custom made. Unless the DIY approach was taken!

Bump.

It seems that you're trying to blow your motor. Why would you want to do that?

How did you happen to get yourself a 22B?

What kind of boost pressures are people running on their cars?

For the fronts I used 2WD KYB struts with EA81T front springs. The rear end took another set of 2WD KYBs with the torsion bars clocked down one notch. As for the tires, I've been enamored with Falken RT-615 tires and they come in 205/50/15s. Now I'm in the process of finding the appropriate wheels to fit those. Factory: Lowered: EDIT: The second picture is with the rear bar at two notches lower. I'll find a pic with the car on one notch.

Quick search found this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=77362&highlight=spfi+doesn%27t+like+boost http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=67572&highlight=quattro+san http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=23639&highlight=quattro+san http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=80422&highlight=turbo+ea81 As for the ceramic coatings, I was talking about it as it pertains to EA81Ts and preventing future cracking of the combustion chamber, sorry for the confusion. EA81Ts are my bread and butter, so don't think that I'm trying to lead this thread off track.