carfreak85

Why wasn't that gone over in your conversion guide? Are turbo EA81 tanks suitable?

Do I even need to say that if you ever decide to sell that car that I will fly out to NZ and travel home with it?!? I'm serious man, if you ever do decide to get something else, let me know!!!

Dudes, I should have checked the forums before I left, Zap, I didn't see your post until just now. I am going back this week, so I can look for one then. RX is crushed with the tranny still inside. I was battling the rear discs as the fork lift drew near, but didn't have the drive to get the trans.

Ed, why didn't you tell me you were down there today!? I was there around noon and I'll be back tomorrow morning!

Do any of these sypmtoms point toward a blown headgasket or does it sound more like the radiator might be the problem?

10-4 on the Tstat. Already put a new OEM one in and it didn't help.

Does anyone have a favorite brand of radiator? I have the water temp gauge installed, but not hooked up. I think that is the next project along with the radiator. Maybe I could have a shop braze a bung for the water temp sensor!!

Is anyone in Washington planning on going to the track day at Bremerton on Friday or the autox there on Sunday? I think I'm going to try to enter both since I have both days open.

I'm fed up and confused with my wagon. I have had a slow overheating problem for the last few months, not getting any worse and not making the car undriveable, but obnoxious none the less. As I drive, the temp gauge will begin to climb past it's old level (dead solid at five bars on the digi dash) and would overheat if I didn't turn on the heater. If I turn on the heater and drive around the car will gradually cool off and return to normal until the next hill or the next time I get on it. I have a new water pump, all new heater/turbo coolant hoses, rad hoses, etc. No leaks besides the radiator overflow when she does get hot and there is no water vapor coming out of the exhaust. It didn't get any better after I ran a bottle of radiator flush through and back flushed the system today. No oil in water or vise versa. Gets hot on the freeway too, and oil temps gradually climb to 250+ *F. The car gets hot more quickly in the daytime compared to night driving. So what do you all think it could be? When I had the heads rebuilt the shop said I had a minor crack between the valves but that it wasn't something to worry about (Sube shop in South sound area) and I have only once or twice had it in the red on the gauge. Could this crack have enlarged and allow exhaust gas to super heat my coolant? Blown headgasket? Super clogged radiator? Things that I have changed since it began to over heat: header, downpipe, exhaust, chopped air box.

Any progress lately?

Niiiiiiiiiice!! Way to go Brian!!

I have talked about turning up the boost on my wagon, but have not yet done that. I'm fighting what I beleive to be a clogged radiator and excessivly high oil temps (Above 250*F at times). I really don't feel comfortable adding more stress to the system until these problems are figured out. Besides that, I refuse to turn up boost pressure until I have my intercooler on which requires my hood scoop as well. Soon enough (this summer) I will have all these goodies on the car and will report back how it is etc, but I have WAY TOO MANY PROJECTS to get through before I can work on my baby again. As for getting more power from heads and cam, the real problem with the EA81 in general is that they only rev to 5.5k rpm!!! When talking to my profs at school, they reccomended new springs and retainers stating that the Al pushrods would be fine as is. I will be satisfied if the engine revs to 7k rpm after this and with a VF-11 or TD04 I can fill in the top end with the turbo power while the stock cam fills in power below that.

I don't like the idea of any loose metal upstream of my turbocharger. If you are planning on turning up the wick, I would do everything possible to remove those, just to be on the safe side.

I have not disassembled my EA81T but when I installed my header, I did not notice any tins in the exhaust ports. However, when tearing down a 1600 recently I did noticed tins in it's ports. Not sure why your's has them, but they must be origianl. How many miles on your engine? From your decription of your car, it sounds like you are well on your way to having an awesome Gen 2 turbo.

That was the longest run-on sentance I have ever read. Sucks about your HGs though.

Arms and legs I've got!!! See if you can find any info for me about this application. I really see this as the only option I have. An 04 STi rack would be ideal, but would require too much fabrication to other parts to make it worth my while. As long as the unit is around 6-8" in length and under 4" diameter, I beleive I can get it to fit nicely in my wagon. On a side note, subaru should have made all EA81Ts RWD!!!!

I say put the car up on stands, loosen all the suspension bolts and fudge in as much neg camber as you can. There really is NO factory adjustment points for camber on these cars. Its nice because you just throw your suspension on and drive, but you also get stupid tire wear. I have the problem about 50% beat on my EA81. I installed 2WD struts which have about an inch lower spring perch as compared to a 4WD strut and I now have ZERO DEGREES OF CAMBER, WOOOOHOOOOOOOO!!! :banana: This would only work on a street only 'ru since lowering an offroader would do you no good.

I WANT THAT FAST STEERING FOR EMERGENCY/ADVANCED DRIVING TECHNIQUES!!! 4:1 is totally unacceptable in this day and age, especially for a car with sporting intentions such as my wagon. My other option is a 02-04 WRX/STi steering rack which would probably require at least some modification where a steering quickener in theory just be fitted in line with the steering shaft.

Not sure exactly where to post this, but after converting my T-Wag to RWD, it has become painfully obvious that my steering is SUPER slow. Like 4 turns lock to lock slow. After 5 min of research I can get a 1.5 ratio that will give me an S2000 like 2.666666 turns lock to lock. Basically I was wondering if anyone has installed a steering doubler/quickener on their 'ru and how much trouble it was to install.

You would need longer struts otherwise the taller springs will eat up all your droop travel.

I'd be happy to show you mine. I'll be putting another inch front and rear of my hatch in the coming weeks so if you'd like to see that drop me a line. Check out my pics.

1) Not hard to find in general. 2) Depends on the deal you come across. 3) Most likely not from a yard.

Hmmmm, good to know. I ended up installing them in the 4WD position just to get them in. On a side note, it looks like I'm winning my battle for negative camber!

Bump!

What would happen if you did install the strut tops in the 2WD position on a 4WD vehicle? It looks like it would increase your caster (Not a bad thing for me) but I'm not sure why Fuji would have spec'ed it differently. I'm installing my new struts right now and was debating which way to put them in.