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Andy FitzGibbon

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Everything posted by Andy FitzGibbon

  1. Push button 4WDs don't have a center differential. That's why it's not good to run them in 4WD on hard surfaces. Push button (part time) 4WDs have the button in the center of the shifter, and full time 4WDs with differential lock have the push button on the console (I believe, never have owned one). Let us know for sure which transmission you have (push button 4WD, or full time with a center differential lock). A GL-10 could have either one. Andy
  2. The Rockauto price is cheaper than what I paid at Autozone (I think they were $35 each there). Plus, the last time I ordered from Rockauto they sent M&Ms. Andy
  3. What General said. Unless the stock filter is restrictive, there's no benefit to a high-flow filter. The stock Subaru filters aren't restrictive, in my experience. I've driven around with no filter at all in the airbox, and the power difference was marginal at best. Andy
  4. The sad thing is that the car wasn't really that bad off, rust wise. The uniframe was solid. If it ran, I probably would have paid the guy who brought it in more than the scrap yard did (cars are $170 a ton right now). There aren't many dual ranges on the road around here any more. It's mostly Loyales. Andy
  5. Got a call from the scrap yard today, from a friend who works there. A GL wagon had just come in. I grabbed a few tools and headed over. Post-facelift GL wagon, dual range, usual rust for a car around here. I have been seeing it on the road until recently, so it probably was running when it came in. This is a recycling yard, not an auto junk yard, so it's not that friendly to parts pullers unless you know the guys who work there. The best score was a rear spoiler in good shape. How rare are they? I've only ever seen a couple. I was also able to quickly grab the D/R shifter console, 4WD knob, shift knob, and change tray, if anybody needs them. Got roof rack load bars too. Wish I could have pulled the rear shoulder belts and the nice straight hood it had, but they were closing and the second shift is probably crushing it as I type this. It's sad to see these cars hit the crusher- pretty soon I will be the only one around here that drives them. Andy
  6. Water would never leak through a spark plug hole, unless the plug is missing or wasn't installed properly. When my Toyota was losing it's head gasket, all the water was going into one cylinder- the oil stayed clean throughout. It got bad enough that to start it, you had to pull the plug on that cylinder and shoot the water out, or the engine would not crank. It could sit for a week like that- with water in the cylinder- and none ever made it into the oil. I know it's not a Subaru, but it's a vertical engine- gravity would be working in favor of any water getting into the crankcase, if it could get past the rings. Water in a Subaru cylinder doesn't even have that advantage. Andy
  7. There is a circular recess machined into the cam tower, around the oil passage, that accepts an o-ring. The OEM o rings are metal reinforced, and nothing else should be used. This is a separate thing from the grove around the cam tower base that you refer to. Andy
  8. I'm not sure if it will bolt up or not, but basically you don't want to do it. The naturally aspirated engines have a lot higher compression than the turbo engines, so if you put a turbo on one you will probably start blowing head gaskets right away. Above and beyond all that, it would probably be a heck of a lot of work to adapt an EA81 turbo setup to an EA82 motor. Andy
  9. Do a compression test first, to determine if either of your diagnoses is correct. If compression is good, you would probably next want to pressure test the cooling system to see where the mixing is going on. Andy
  10. Are you confusing the cam timing marks and the engine timing marks? The cam timing marks are the three lines on the flywheel, all by themselves. Line up on the center mark, set the cams (one hole pointing up, one hole pointing down on the cam pulleys) and put the belts on. Then rotate the engine 180 degrees to the engine timing marks. These are the marks you use the timing light on. Set the engine on 0 degrees (top dead center) and install the distributor. Andy
  11. No Loyale touring wagons- GL or GL10 only. I have an '89 GL touring wagon with power windows and manual belts, dual range, and SPFI. Andy
  12. OK price, free shipping, and supposed to be a two row. I ordered one. Will report back on how it looks when it gets here. Andy
  13. I have run Bosch wires on two cars and haven't had any problems with them. Odd, though that I bought them only a couple months apart, and one set was red wire and the other was black. Andy
  14. Others with much better knowledge will come along and confirm- but I think you can take a N/A block with a good bottom end, and swap in the turbo pistons. Andy
  15. I am pretty sure that is not true, but not 100% sure. Andy
  16. I have four EA82s and between them there are 3 different A/C system variations. How do you tell what's factory installed and what's dealer installed? The best way is (of course) by measuring, but unfortunately in my case the WP shaft was pushed back into the WP in the wreck. Either shaft length can be used on any car or A/C setup, if you have the right pulley- the 110mm uses studs to hold both the pulley and fan on, and the 105mm has the pulley held on with bolts, and studs threaded into it that hold the fan. Andy
  17. I wasn't too happy with the eBay head gasket kit I bought. The valve cover gaskets did not fit that well, and something around the cams is already leaking (either cam seals or carrier o-rings). Not a lot, but enough to make me buy the better parts next time. Andy
  18. What did you mess up? Are you sure it can't be repaired? Andy
  19. Yes. The valve cover gaskets didn't fit that well, and the cam seals and/or o-rings that came with the kit are already leaking a little. When I bought the stuff, I bought the engine gasket kit and the timing belt kit separately. The same place (Import Experts) have just the belts, tensioners, and idler on ebay for around $60. Andy
  20. Radiator.com lists two that sound right for EA82 applications- a 25 x 13 x 5/8" (1 row) for $105 and a 25 x 13 x 1 1/4" (2 row) for $145. I can't find what their shipping charges are on their site. usaradiator.com mentioned by Dave T has free shipping. Their two row is $170. Andy
  21. Radiatorexpress is $170, Radiatorbarn is $124 and free shipping:-\ Andy
  22. I just tried to order a two-row radiator from RadiatorBarn.com, and they and the manufacturer are both out. ThePartsBin.com has free shipping (like radiatorbarn), but their descriptions don't specify 1 or 2 row. Anyone have another online source? Thanks, Andy
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