Rooster2

I had a similar problem with my 91 Leggie. I thought the fan motor went bad, so bought one from a wrecking yard. However, upon installation, I found the fan unit full of tree leaves and crud to the point of preventing the fan from rotating. I cleaned out the crud, and the original fan unit works good as new. It is not difficult to remove the fan unit. You will need to remove the glove box to gain access, but that is not difficult. Just remove a few bolts, and it is removed.

Sounds like the large nut was backing itself off the end of the axle. Is this right??

I don't think I would use lacquer thinner. What problem are you having??

Go the used spindle/knuckle route. Source one from a wrecking yard, as I described earlier. If you need details on how to do this job, email me at: Fish6525@yahoo.com. Just been there, just done this job last night, so all details are fresh in my mind.

I had not planned on going the JY approach of securing a spindle/knuckle. I have a Harbour Freight Hub Tamer, and had purchased a new hub, bearing, and seals to replace the bearing. However, upon dis-assembly, the new bearing I installed last summer was trash, and falling apart. At that point, I was sure something was bad with the spindle/knuckle, resulting from the problem with the earlier broken end on the half shaft. A new knuckle is dealer only, and I didn't want to wait around several days for the dealer to get one in from their warehouse. So, I decided to go the JY approach, and hope for the best. I got the part in the morning, and had it installed by night fall, while the weather was still decent to work outside. No more screwing around with a car torn down on my driveway.

Same thought on possible bad half shaft axle boots. Recommend turning wheels so you can look under the car at the half shaft boots. Look for boot tears, and if so, you will prolly see axle grease slung around the inside of the road wheel. Hope you get lucky with just ice build up on the tires.

Sounds like a decent car for just $800.00 I couldn't access your pictures, so no can see what you have. All your problems seem inexpensively manageable: 1. Grease the slides on the brakes. 2. Doubt that you are having head gasket trouble. Antifreeze leak from a hose is more likely, or perhaps from failing water pump. 3. Replace bushings on shifter is most likely the problem, as others have said. 4. Exhaust leaks cheaply fixable. Find a cut/bend/weld family owned muffler shop, that will cut out bad pieces, weld in new pieces. Lots less expensive then replacing entire system. Chain muffler shops are the culprits that want to replace entire muffler system. If motor runs good..........sounds like a good buy.

Agree with others that it is highly probable that your wheel bearing is shot. I just had a wheel bearing go bad, and it damaged the spindle knuckle as well. Just last night, I replaced the spindle knuckle unit. Got a used one from a yard for $75. For my 2 cents worth of advise, a used unit from a yard is the way to go. The bearing is already in the knuckle, so just install the knuckle and your done. You will likely need a new ball joint as well, but that only costs about $20.

I posted earlier about needing to replace the spindle knuckle on my 99 OBW. I bought a unit from a yard yesterday for $75. When you live in a large city the cost is more. Now installed, the new knuckle works fine. Special thanks to grossgary and davebugs. I had never done this job before, so was kind of in the dark as to the particulars. I took grossgary's advise about replacing the ball joint with a new unit, vs trying to separate the old one, without damaging the rubber boot. The old ball joint was in really tight, so the pickle fork ruined the rubber boot in a hurry. A new ball joint was going to be needed. Glad I purchased one, and had it readily at hand. In the future, I won't ever mess with replacing a bad bearing. It is so much easier just replacing the spindle knuckle. The only question is making sure you get a good unit from a yard. Also, I nearly got sold a unit for the left side, when I asked for a unit for the right side. Something about the left side unit just didn't look right when paying for it, so checking into it with yard guy, he realized his mistake, and got me the correct right side. You just really have to watch what you are getting at a yard. Thanks again guys!......best regards, Rooster2, (Larry)

Yes, thanks for the visuals.......gives me a better idea of what the entire knuckle unit will look like, when I pick one up at a yard.

Good thoughts, life is always a factor of "time vs money" issue on any project. I know a yard well enough to call, get a price, and then have them pull the part, with a complete understanding that I will absolutely be there to complete the purchase. I will be doing that tomorrow morning to snare a knuckle.

Dave, what you say makes sense. I surmised the hub and knuckle joined together, but now I know. Sounds like if I find a good knuckle, I am in good shape. Thanks!!

My Firefox server could not find this website. Is it legit??

Thanks guys, I appreciate all the help. I know what a hub is, but I still don't know what a steering knuckle is, or what it looks like. Is the knuckle the same as what is called a spindle? Is there an exploded diagram available, that I can see what a knuckle, maybe called a Spindle looks like?

A little history.........last summer, I had to replace the half shaft, as the end had broken off about 2-3" from the end at the road wheel end. A shop replacing the half shaft thought the wheel bearing was still good. 2 Months later, the bearing went bad. I, and a buddy replaced the wheel bearing using the Harbor Freight hub tamer, but a few months later it started making just a little squeaky, creaky noise. Now, the noise is much louder, and the road wheel would move up and down, while being jacked up. That is a strong indicator that the wheel bearing is bad A friend pulled the hub out today, and says the steering knuckle is bad, along with the bearing, so that is why I posted the question about replacing the knuckle. I don't have much knowledge about these parts and what is needed, but my buddy does, so I am trusting his judgment. Any advise still sought.

I have a 99 Leggie OBW that needs a replacement steering knuckle and hub. I am thinking I can buy this as a unit from a wrecking yard. What would be helpful is to know what roughly the individual parts cost from a yard would be. I am sure that my favorite yard would have parts available. I am thinking any Leggie from 96-99 would fit. Would this be true? Also, is this something that can be bought with some confidence from a yard, that the part(s) would be good? Yes, I realize that the hub can be bought from a parts store, and the steering knuckle is available dealer only. I would prefer not to have to wait days for the dealer to get the part in.

If you have small claims court in CA, I would file a suit against the shop for their poor work. Maybe you can get some, or all your money back!

Since the timing belt looks good.........I got to thinking.....Subies don't burn oil, even with 200K on the odo, so if the car used oil, it would be more then likely that there could be a major oil leak somewhere. I have seen where oil filters, or the pan bolt weren't tight to cause a major oil leak. The result is a seized motor, that won't turn over, and I remember you saying the motor will not turn over. Is the bottom of the motor covered in leaked oil? Just curious??

You posted that the engine was over filled with motor oil. I am wondering maybe the engine used some oil, so owner carried a large can of oil to add on a road trip. Maybe the owner forgot to add oil, and so ran out of oil, and locked up the engine, then added too much oil in hopes of getting the car to run again...with no success. Well if it were an out of oil problem, or timing belt problem, I think you made a good choice to replace the engine. With 204K miles on the odo, it is better to go with a replacement engine. Have fun with your new Subie!!

Aftermarket thermostats will work fine. I am using one now for the past three years. I just made sure to buy an expensive aftermarket unit that has the large and long spring mechanism like the OEM model. It is the cheapie stats with the short spring, that I think are the trouble makers.

I too, have the Yokohama Avid TRZ on my Outback, and recommend them.

Both my 98 and 99 OBWs developed the exact same exhaust problem. I took it to a muffler shop, who torched off the fitting, eliminated the resonator, bent a piece of pipe, welded that in. I was out the door with a cost less then $50. Eliminating the resonator made no difference in exhaust sound. It sounds perfectly like OEM. I don't know why Subaru bothered to use a resonator.

I recently had a 95 motor installed in my 99 OBW. My 99 is the exact setup as your 96. The Impreza motor will install just fine. Only changes that need to be addressed is location difference for the evaporation canister, and take 96 A/C bracket, and bolt to the 95 motor. No issue with the exhaust down pipe. Everything is plug and play. Recommend changing the timing belt, oil seal, water pump, and pulleys, on the 95 motor before installation, and making sure the oil pump bolts are tight. Tons written here on doing the swap, the search archives are your best friend to learn all you need about doing the work.

I live on the north side of Indy. I am not an independent Subie mechanic, but do know a thing or two about Subies, as I work on the two that I own. I do trust a nearby independent shop to do honest work on my car, and can recommend them. I would be glad to take a look at the car, if that would be helpful. I would not trust anything advised by anyone from a Midas shop on any topic. Their people are trained to search out work to be done on any car that comes into their shop, regardless if the car needs the work done or not. IMO, they are far more profit oriented, then service oriented. PM me, or drop me a note at fish6525@yahoo.com, if you like. Regards, Rooster2 (Larry)