Rooster2

My 98 had the 2.5 w/AT. Transplanted 95 with 2.2 came out of a car with AT, so no issue with EGR kicking on a CEL. Can you describe where to find the IAC valve? I am not familiar with that valve, or even where to look for it under the hood. I guess when I find it, it will be evident what to rotate.

I just bought a crank position sensor for 95, 2.2 motor for about $37, out the door w/tax for about $40 from O'Reilly Auto Parts. It is after market, and works just fine. A bear to remove old sensor, if you read my recent post.

95 Leggie, from a wrecking yard.

My recently transplanted EJ-22 in my 98 OBW idles low after warm up. It idles at not much more then 500 rpm. It doesn't stall, but the low idle makes for vibration, while waiting for a traffic light to change. Can this be corrected by using Sea-foam in the engine to clean out deposits? Any thing else that can be addressed to improve the idle? Thanks!

I have never heard of PB Blaster being corrosive, nor seen any evidence of corrosion after separating parts that had PB Blaster sprayed on them long ago. If so, I still think it is the all time champion to get parts to loosen up and separate that have corroded together.

Car was running just fine, but would throw a CEL when motor started. I drove to a parts store, where the counter guy pulled the code. I don't know the code that was displayed. Counter guy said the crank position sensor was bad. The sensor was never checked for electrical values. Car did not start immediately upon leaving the auto parts store, but let motor cool down, and then it started okay. Counter guy said a bad sensor was causing the no start. Upon replacing the sensor, the CEL is gone, and motor has started without hesitation every time, so I am thinking replacing the sensor has fixed the problem. Hard to tell how old your crank sensor is. If one of the codes that you have read is for the crank sensor, then I would replace it, if I were you. Cost with tax out the door is about $40 at a parts store.

Very good description " a root canal," lol, lol, you could not have described it any better. Yes, I could look down in the hole after the sensor was fully removed. I could see a little bit of the gear, and was glad I did not drill through the casing, and try inserting a self taping screw to remove. Just too easy to damage the gear, and whatever. Your picture shows just how close everything is.

Thanks for all the advise. Yes, I applied anti-seize on new one upon installation. If I ever have to remove a crank sensor again, and the plastic sheers off at the block line, I will aggressively remove the entire contents of the sensor by cutting away all plastic, then removing contents with needle nose pliers, leaving only the old thin metal sensor casing shell. Use a very thin screw driver or knife blade to start bending the casing inward. Once all sides are bent inward, then needle nose pliers easily pulled out the entire casing shell, and sensor removal was complete. I hope this info helps the next guy, who does a "search" on this topic, and who got stuck like I did.

Back in early 90's Subie Legacy seats were comfy built, and covered with grey "mouse fur" cloth. Lots more comfortable then standard OBW seats out of the mid to late 90's. Enjoy the "mouse furs."

Got the crank sensor replaced........it was a bear!!! With a friend, we slowly chipped away plastic from inside existing crank sensor, slowly removed it's contents, and used an awl to bend the crank sensor tubular housing inward, where needle nose pliers could grasp the bent housing and complete the total removal. Should someone read this post in the future, it is NOT advisable to drill a hole in the bottom of the sensor housing, then screw in a self taping screw, as someone suggested. If this were to be done, there is minimal empty space under the drilled hole. It would be easy to cause damage to gear teeth below, or to the housing. You don't want to chance doing any damage. Glad this job is complete, it was a nasty PITA, that I don't want to do again!!

Do you know when the spark plugs were last changed, or fuel filter last changed?

I too, would be reluctant to take a car with trany issues, with that many miles on an 800 mile trip. It is just too easy to break down. To give you an idea of what can happen, I had a 91 Subie with about 178K on odo, and took it on a 150 mile road trip. The trany seemed fine to start out with, but after about 50 miles, it seemed to slip, and the car would slow down when climbing interstate hills. About 20 miles from home a warning light lit on the dash stating that the automatic transmission was over heating. I pulled off the interstate right away, turned off the motor, and waited about 10 minutes. Upon restart, the warning light went out, but the car would not shift out of second gear. I took back streets to get home, and no amount of changing fluid, or adding additives revived that trany. It was shot. I would hate the above to happen to you. I am thinking you are better off taking another car on the trip if possible.

Any chance that the pads are the wrong ones? It can even be the wrong pads in the right box. I did brakes on my 91 Subie, years back, only to discover that I was sold the wrong pads. No wonder they wouldn't fit. It can, and does happen.

Are you double sure that the piston is fully compressed back into the caliper with a c-clamp to allow room for the pads to seat over the rotor? Whenever, I have encountered what you described, it is always the brake pads not compressed enough to slide down and around the rotor. When I compress the piston a little more, all becomes fine. The pin would be most difficult to bend to be the cause of your problem. I use a lot of anti-seize upon reassembly to prevent future galling.

Yes, I think you are right, the threaded holes are for 8mm bolts. The bolts threaded in the two holes push against the backing plate to move the rotor toward you and off the hub. I have never run into a corrosion problem to have that create any problems.

Thanks for the advise. I was already to the point of removing the alternator to get it out of the way, but ran out of daylight to do the job today. I will try twisting with pliers first, and hope to get lucky. I have it sprayed down good with PB Blaster, so maybe a good soak over night with PB will help.

The axle nut does not need to be removed. Simply remove the caliper, and pads. Then, remove the two bolts that hold the pads. The rotor are then ready to come off. Thread one of the bolts used to hold on the bracket into the threaded hole of the rotor. Screwing in the bolt, pushes the rotor off the hub. It is real simple to do. I know this works on the front brakes, prolly the same for the rears. Suggest you lube all bolts and slides with anti-seize to let things come apart easier next time you do brakes. Good Luck!!

I bought a replacement unit, and see that it is a one piece metal sleeve. I tried prying on what is left of the plastic, but that is no good. Little pieces of plastic just want to break off. I am thinking of removing the alternator, which is in the way. The counter guy at parts store suggested drilling a hole, then screwing in a wall anchor. He said get the kind, that expands prongs out, when pushed through a hole. Then, grabbing the wall anchor screw, and pulling the "can" unit out. Who knows, maybe that will work. I have soaked down the unit with PB Blaster, maybe that will help. Any thoughts on what I have just written? Any fresh ideas?? This sure has become a PITA, that I don't need.

The metal probe and two little wires came out. Maybe I am lucky and it is just the brown plastic housing that remains. If so, maybe I can chisel out what remains. I will pick up a new sensor later today, and look at that one to get a good idea of what remains in the block. Thanks for the help.

I have a 95, EJ-22 that threw a code for a bad crank sensor. I tried to remove the old sensor by disconnecting the wire, removing the bolt, then gently prying up on the sensor with a screw driver. Trouble is......the crank sensor plastic housing broke off flush with the block. How can I remove what's left of the sensor? How difficult is this going to be?? Thanks for any help. I really screwed up this project.

Yea, I was of the same frame of mind, always trying to save a buck or two on a purchase. However, as said earlier, universals haven't worked well for me. IMO, it is better to pay extra for one that is made to fit, with no splicing necessary. I have had good luck with Bosch O2 sensors. I check the on line parts companies, get the Bosch number, then shop for the best price. You can find some deals on Bosch O2 sensors.

Several times, I tried replacing an O2 sensor with a universal. The kind where you had to splice & solder the electrical wires together. Maybe it was me, and I couldn't, or didn't solder well, but I could never get the universal to work correctly, or if correct, couldn't get the universal to last more then 6-12 months before throwing a code again. I finally wised up, and went to OEM, where no splicing is involved, and have had no problems. Just my 2 cents worth of history.

Congrats!........sounds like you found the problem, and got her fixed. That's great!!

Best now to call him to see if sold or still for sale. It is worth a call.

How long, and roughly how many miles has the TB and idlers, water pump been on the 95? If a long time, I am betting on a broken timing belt, possibly made broken, when an idler or water pump bearing froze up to cause the belt to break. If so, you may want to take a water pump with you. If you don't use it, it is easily returnable for money back at a parts store. A '95, 2.2 is non interference, so you don't have to worry about any valve damage.