Rooster2

Thanks guys, I will shop around. I can't find any sensors on the existing radiator, but thought there might be one or some that are not easy to see and find.

I have a 98 OBW that needs a new radiator. Advance Auto Parts list two different part numbers on line. I called the store and was told that one radiator has sensor fittings, the other radiator does not. Any advise on which one I need??

For what it is worth.........I have seen nylon cable ties used to secure a radiator, when the holes did not match up. It is a red neck fix for sure, but it does hold the radiator in place quite well.

It helps to use two filter wrenches at the same time.......one that goes around the filter, and another that fits on as an end cap, and is turned by using a 3/8 " drive handle on the filter end cap. This gives you two handles, and double your power to loosen the filter.

The jumpiness in tight turns sounds like "torque bind." The phenomenon is well written up in the archives of this forum. Changing ATF if your car has an auto transmission may help. Change the fluid 3 times with short drives between changes is recommended. Only about half the ATF can be changed at one time, the other half stays in the torque converted, and won't drain is the reason for the 3 changes.

Not doable to put your tires on rims at home. It takes a tire changer machine to do that. I have been a loyal Discount Tire customer. They have always been good to me until lately. Last time there, the counter guy was rather snotty with me. Maybe it was just him, I don't know. His spouting new Discount Tire Policy to me about not working on tires older then 6 years was ridiculous. All I wanted was to have them aired up on my RV. Walmart will mount and balance tires for $5 per wheel. The price is right.

Mostly likely crappy tires.

I think that a bad KS results in "limp mode" computer function, that retards engine timing to prevent detonation (Ping). Does the KS do this, or affect rich/lean mixture instead?

AZ stores used to have a testing station, where starters could be hooked up to power, and tested inside the store. However, I haven't seen a testing station in some time, so they may have discontinued that service. Tell the AZ counter guy that you know what you are doing in installing a starter, and your cables and hook ups are correct, but your electrical system continues to short out. After completing that discussion, they will swap out another starter to you with no hassle. Hope a "new' starter solves your problem.

I think my 99 OBW has the same plug sitting up near the top of the firewall, just below the wipers. I don't know what it is for, I have never used mine.

You have a dead short somewhere. Hard to believe the starter could cause a dead short. Usually a bad starter simply doesn't work, and produces no other issues, not the problems you are having. Like already responded here........are you sure your battery cables are not reversed?? Any chance the battery was removed, then installed 180 degrees wrong?? I buy quite a bit from AZ. I have never had trouble with their rebuilts, but others say they do. Regardless, AZ has a great guarantee on their products, so you won't have any trouble getting a replacement.

It has been a while since I replaced a starter, but seem to remember the "swing" problem with the handle. I think I remedied that by using about a long 10 " extension bar between the socket and the drive handle.

The trans spin on filter looks exactly like an oil filter, and screws into the side of the trany. Resist the temptation to replace with an oil filter. The trans filter requires a specific trans oil filter. They are pricey at about $30/filter, and available at auto parts stores. Call first to see if they have one in stock. Don't drop the pan looking for an internal trans filter. The little piece of screen wire inside there never seems to clog up. The problem is replacing the tranny pan is a nasty job of removing the old gasket, and then there is a strong possibility that your new pan gasket will leak ATF.

Bolts too tight??

Clean the area super good with gasoline or rubbing alcohol on a rag. Dry thoroughly, then seal up the area with JB Weld. Let set over night before driving the car for JB to dry. JB should fix this easily.

I don't know of any rebuilds that have a bad reputation. I have had good luck with the "Worldwide" rebuild brand. It is priced on the lower side of the rebuilds. I have only had to replace two starters over the past 15 years on my three Subies, so with the rebuilds holding up and doing well, I don't have much experience in running into bad rebuilds. The starter is not that difficult to replace. I do the work from the top of the engine. You have to be a bit of a contortionist to reach a bolt or two, but it can be done. The danger is dropping a mounting bolt upon reassembly. I stuff rags and paper towels under the starter to "catch" a bolt should I accidentally drop a bolt. The rags prevent the bolt from falling somewhere that makes it difficult to retrieve the bolt.

Look at the very front of the engines. The 2.2 will have two round circles in the plastic cover that covers the cams and timing belt. The 2.5 will have four round circles in the plastic cover that covers the cams and timing belt.

I did a google search for "used Subaru motors." That search produced quite a few sites for motors for sale. I tried in vain, but could not find the site that I requested a motor for 1995 Subaru Impreza 2.2 motor. The 2.2 motor from 1995 is the best match to replace a 2.5 in a 1998 Legacy. I read that asking for an Impreza motor would cost less then one from a Legacy. They are the same, but Impreza maybe costs less. It was a matter of filling out a form on line of the motor I wanted. Once submitted, I received about 10 emails from wrecking yards from Chicago to New York state. There were also several telephone calls too. However, for the life of me, I can't find that web site. However, I found my motor locally from a wrecking yard. So, it is worth making some calls to your local wrecking yards to see what they have. Good Luck!!

I am in the process of having my 2.5 replaced with a 2.2 from a '95. I checked several JDM sources, but found the motors rather expensive. I bought the 2.2 with 143K miles on the odo, and a 6 months guarantee for $375. I don't want to come across as bragging, but just want to show you what cost can be from non JDM sources. Other 2.2 pricing I got from other yards had 2.2 motors from about $700 to $875. I was also reluctant to buy a JDM motor because there might be issues of comparability to the US market. If your current motor has EGR, you will need to replace with a motor that has EGR, or your check engine light will always be on. Do you know if the 2.0 motor has EGR? Do you know if it will be OBD 2 compatible? I would hate to see you buy into a can of worms of problems.

Since the block head bolt hole has been over sized, I don't see how swapping 2.5 externals will correct anything. Is dealer wanting to replace the block by going to a JDM engine?

My wife just cooked our 2.5 motor in 98 OBW. I wish Subaru had installed a red flashing light on the dash, if the motor was over heating. My wife never pays any attention to the temp gauge. Better still, it would have been better to install a sensor that would shut down the motor, if it began to over heat. Crappy HG, and a less then great dash warning light system in Subie is not a good combination.

If your 2.5 did not over heat for a long period of time, or repeatedly, your engine is prolly not damaged. Still, it is good to keep listening to the engine for any heavy knocking noise that signals rod bearing trouble. Hope you used Subie HGs, as they are highly recommended. After market HGs don't have as good a reputation. I read something too about the "6" digit match, but don't know what it means. When I bought my 2.2, no one asked the question. So, I hope my motor will work without matching any VIN numbers. Maybe someone reading this can say what the "6" does?? Here in Indiana, there are a fair number of Subies on the road. I think having them assembled near Lafayette, IN has something to do with it.

I felt fortunate to find a '95 2.2 for $375. I haven't had it installed yet, but was told that it came from a running car that had been hit in the side. So, I am keeping my fingers crossed that I got lucky and bought one that is in good shape, and hopefully, PO changed oil at reasonable intervals. I checked around on the internet and found a bunch of 2.2 engines that are priced at around $700 to $800. Who knows their histories, if they are good or not. Like already written, buying a good 2.2 for $200 doesn't exist anymore. Also, 2.2 motors are getting really old, with a lot of miles if they have been continually in service. I suspect the supply of 2.2 motors is dwindling away. Lower supply of good motors, yet with some demand, means prices rise. I suspect that lower bearing failure on an over heated 2.5 is prolly strongly related to oil lubrication failure. Super heating oil breaks down its ability to lubricate properly. With poor lubrication, a connecting rod failure is predictable.

I printed out your advise, and will give it to my mechanic. Thanks again.