Rooster2

I have same problem with my 98 ObW. I replaced the filler neck, but still must have a vacuum leak somewhere in the gas tank system. It could also be a bad gas cap that is not holding a vacuum. Tracing down that code and fixing it is pretty much trial and error. As mentioned earlier, it could very well be a leak in the filler neck. Salt and crud builds up between the filer neck and the plastic shroud that covers it. I replaced my filler neck, and threw away the shroud, as I did not think it worth the trouble to replace it.

At $13, the price seems like a misprint. The one from AA at $343 seems like a misprint also. How could two parts designed to do the same thing be such wide dollar cost apart?? Buy the one for $13. Even if it doesn't fix your problem, you would be out so very little.

A sticking caliper will not fix itself. Be assured the problem will return. The caliper needs to be investigated to see what is going on. As others have said, it is either a sticking slide pin, or caliper piston is not retracting properly with foot off the brake pedal.

fuel pump or fuel filter??

Yea, missed USMB when it was not working. What happened??

Recommend Ohtsu 7000 series tire. I have buying them for the last 3-4 years. I have them on wife's Outback, daughter's Hyundai, and Jeep Wrangler. Next purchase on my 99 Outback. Ohtsu is made by Falken or vice versa, and manufactured in Japan.. Tires are all season, good and quiet on the road, handle well in snow and rain, and made to last 40,000 miles. Cost in the $60-$70 range. They have a good strong firm sidewall, which I like. That feature is usually lacking in other lower priced tires. Well worth a look, good luck on your tire search.

Nice catch.............enjoy !!

Swap in a wiper motor sourced from a wrecking yard, would be what I would recommend.

I seem to remember during 96-99 Leggies, that Subaru sourced starters from two manufacturers, Denso and perhaps Mitsubishi. I had a starter go bad, bought a rebuilt from a parts store. It was built a little different from what came off the car, but putting on the rebuilt unit worked just fine. Can't remember what brand swapped out, and new one swapped in.

In lie of changing seat belts, you might want to consider adding a color sticker to both the buckle and latch receptacle for a correct match up. That would show the seat belt wearer that the correct color match up is necessary to get the buckle to lock in to the latch receptacle.

About 20 years ago, I tried using a split boot. It did not fit well at all, or even seal together very well. Just a complete waste of time and money. Maybe after 20 years they are better, but I doubt it. From the picture you posted, it looks just like what I had back then.

Advise pursuing a claim against the insurance company of the person who hit your car. I assume you have the name and insurance info from the other driver. You need to call that insurance company. You have, or can get the police report on the accident, and it will probably state the other driver admits fault in the accident. I am surprised that your insurance company did not give you advise on how to pursue this matter with the other person's insurance company. Your agent seems uncaring to the point, that if it were me, I would be shopping elsewhere, when it is time to renew the policy. I also agree with others, it is far better not to carry collision coverage on an older car. It is just not money smart to do so.

After reading your post, and following responses, I agree that your problem is most likely caused by the dealer techs on replacing the air bag. As stated they either forgot to plug in electrical connectors they had disconnected when working on the air bags, or they damaged wiring. Either way, you need to go back to the dealer, and tell them your problem, and have them fix it. You have said they are horrible to deal with, if so, and they try to give you a hard time, then tell them you are going to go over their head, and talk to the Subaru district manager to get your problem fixed. Maybe it is because I am getting old and cranky, but I have learned over a life time not to take it from anyone giving me a hard time. When you know that you did not have these car problems before taking to the dealer, and now you have the problems upon them working on the car, then it is the dealer that has caused the problem. Then be tough, and let them know that, and nicely demand that they fix the problem. Don't take NO for an answer. If you would like some strategy on how to approach this dealer in expanded detail, I would be happy to give you advise. Just send me a PM. Rooster2

Does car crank, but no start?? Or, not crank at all? Have you turned on the head lights, and are they bright? With your beat up charger, maybe it is best to use jumper cables to know that you are getting good voltage added to the electrical system. Suggest you try that.

A friend who is a good mechanic fixed my Subie. Massive oil leak was from a bad cam seal on driver's side. Luckily, I got the motor shut off in time, before I ran out of oil. Engine sounds great with no knocking noise, so I don't think there is any engine damage. Thanks to all who said it was either a crank or cam seal. You guys know your stuff. That helped to know what to look for. Thanks again !!

State laws vary. Here in Indiana, it is against the law for a wrecking yard to sell you a used cat converter. Getting caught, the yard is subject to a large $ fine. Maybe California law is different??

Yes they do. This results in thicker then normal head gaskets for the early 2.5 motors, and resulting head gasket failure problem. Subaru revised the head gaskets several times to make improvements.

Dug into it a bit yesterday. Appears to be a crank or cam seal. A friend of mine is a good mechanic. He will check it out fully in a couple of days. Timing belt is oil soaked. That will need to be replaced. Thanks for all the good advise.

What is the reputation of this timing belt for my 99 OBW?? Sold by Advance Auto Parts.

Nice ride..........enjoy !!

Nice ride..........enjoy !!

My 98 Leggie Outback fog lights work the same way. Turn on brights, fog lights turn off.

Thanks guys for the good advise. Tomorrow, I will check it out.

I hope your luck improves.

My OBW just started leaking oil badly. I had no leaks, then a bad leak developed quickly. I crawled underneath to see it is not leaking from the drain plug, or from the oil filter. The oil pan cover seems okay. It seems to be from the front of the engine. It is too cold and windy today to take off the cam covers, but suspect the leak is from there. Maybe the oil seal?? I will pull the cam covers off tomorrow to check. Are there any other suspicious places to look for a massive oil leak?? Thanx!!