Rooster2

Used P/S pump purchased from a wrecking yard cost about $40 around here. Easy to install, when mine broke on my 91 Subie. A good chance this will fix the problem, if not, being out $40 is not all that bad. In comparison, simple diagnostic work done at the dealer cost $100 or more.

Sorry, I don't remember the link, remember reading the content before I and a friend changed my wheel bearing on my 99 OBW. I bought a DIY wheel bearing change kit from Harbor Freight for about $100. It worked okay with an electric impact wrench, but it was still a struggle removing the old race that stays in the hub after disassembly. Figure it being a 4 hour job from start to finish, the first time you do it yourself. Parts needed: new wheel bearing, inner an outer grease seals, and wheel bearing grease. My new bearing came greased, but really needed more grease.

Same thoughts as above.........however, I think of denatured alcohol as methanol. I bet you are really meaning to say ethanol. I read a previous thread here, where it was suggested adding 2 gallons of E-85 (ethanol) to a tank of gas to pass an emission test. Adding Seafoam or Marvel Mystery Oil to the fuel system should help clean the engine too.

And the correct answer is ?????????????

Boy, that turned out to be a simple quick fix!

I don't think anyone on this forum is going to know the answer regarding oil filter bypass specs. Prolly only the manufacturer knows that. I use, and have used for years the Walmart brand supertech filters. I have always used the 3593 size in my Subie with no problems. I see no reason to switch to another size.

I flushed both my 98 and 99 OBW brake systems. Both have ABS, and presented no difficulties, or anything unusual. Old fluid was the color of iced tea. I flushed until I could see clear fluid in the transparent drain tubing. I am not aware that any special electronic tool is needed to flush Subie brakes.

I'll have the braking fluid flushed as well... the pedal doesn't transmit a lot of confidence as it is right now. It is easy to flush the brake fluid yourself, using one of those "one man" brake flush kits. Since, you are going to be working on the rear brakes, you are already there to flush the rear brake lines.

I would add some Marvel Mystery Oil to both the oil and gas tank to clean up the engine and fuel systems. It might even get rid of that tick you are hearing.

The purpose of the heat shields is to curb starting a fire, should you ever park in an area that is over grown with high dry weeds or grass. Without shields, the exhaust system is hot enough to ignite the weeds, should the weeds physically contact the cat or exhaust pipes for an extended period of time. I don't know about you, but the chances of this happening to me is darn near impossible. So, in my opinion there is no realistic negative effect of removing the heat shields.

I originated this thread. Update.......I have been using Trans-X for three years now. My 99 OBW started to get lazy, reverting back to its earlier habit of delayed forward engagement, when shifted from R to D. So, I filled and drained twice the ATF, and added a pint of Trans-X. Within 5 minutes of driving, the lazy shifting has now completely gone away. Trans-X continues to do its magic. I now see a pattern has developed, that Trans-X will work for a year, then begin to fail. However, draining ATF, and adding fresh Trans-X completely fixes the problem. So, I have learned that after a year the Trans-X additive must wear out. It is just great to know that the cure in the plastic bottle will work year after year.

If your battery has caps, pry them off to see if the water level is full. Fill with distilled water if needed. Low water can cause the battery not to perform.

Happy to hear that you got your OBW running, so you can drive it. I have the same car, a 99 OBW. Read up on using a product called "Trans-X." It is an additive that will solve your problem with "delayed forward engagement" of your trany. I wrote the original thread on this subject, and find Trans-X still working well for me after 3 years of use. I have good success at a good price in buying brake rotors and calipers from Advance Auto Parts. I like ceramic brake pads. If you buy from their website, there is always a coupon available for 20% discount off the entire bill. Prices are decent to begin with. I bought their house brand, (I am sure Chinese made rotors) and found them to be of high quality, and not warping after a year of use. They are guaranteed free replacement if any problems are encountered within 1 or maybe 2 years of purchase. If there is one of their stores near where you live, you can pick up your on line purchase within about a half hour of purchasing on line. The store will refund any core charge incurred. 600 rpm at idle is normal for your car. I recently installed a Bosch 02 sensor that I bought on line. Good price, sensor works well.

The 02 sensor is the same size base as the old style (large base) spark plugs of long ago, whatever size that is. I am thinking either 7/8" or 13/16" in SAE, but I might be wrong. However, it is a common size in SAE, so I don't think you will have trouble finding an open end SAE size wrench in your tool box that will fit. I do remember that the size needed is an exact same size in both SAE and metric. It is the only time, that I have ever found an SAE size to match up exactly with a metric size.

Just remember to slide a length of pipe over your existing drive or breaker bar handle. The added length gives added leverage makes all the difference in getting that tight 02 sensor to break loose. I will guarantee you, it will be TIGHT!! I found it easier to tighten up the new 02 sensor with an open end wrench.

My bad 02 sensor triggered a CEL. I had a parts store read the code. They told me it was a bad sensor. The toughest problem is to get the existing 02 sensor loose. It will be on super tight. My sensor removal socket loaded the drive at the end of the sensor. This won't work on a Subie, as there is no room to attach the drive handle. So, I got lucky at an auto parts store, and found an 02 sensor removal socket with an offset where the drive handle attaches. I used a short extension between the socket and the drive handle. When removing the sensor, run motor for a short period of time to warm up the exhaust pipe. I slid a small metal pipe over the drive handle, which lengthened the drive handle for more leverage. I also drove my OBW front wheels up on ramps, so there was enough room under the car to work. I applied the hand brake, and chocked the rear wheels to prevent the car from moving.

Scratching my head as to why the tail gate was cut in half, then the upper window portion moved forward and rebolted, after a section of the roof was cut away. What purpose does this serve??

I recently installed a Bosch 02 sensor. It works just fine.

I am thinking a bad wheel bearing. Recently, I had noise from my right front on my 99 OBW. Mechanic could find no looseness when jacking the front wheel off the ground, and yanking the road wheel back and forth, so he did not think it was a bad bearing. Still the noise was there. I finally replaced the wheel bearing myself, and that solved the noise and vibration. It is a difficult job to do with a hub tamer. I don't know that I would want to do this job again. Prolly, best done by a shop with a hydraulic press.

If the pipe is accessible, try to patch with JB Weld. The product has amazing strength. I used it with success to patch tubing on the high pressure side of my car's A/C system. In using JB weld, it is imperative to get the area extremely clean before adding the patch, then let it dry over night, perhaps longer, before driving the car. I am betting the patch will hold, even if applied to the high pressure side.

If your radio is a high rated wattage output to the speakers, there is a possibility that the radio is over heating, and these radios produce quite a bit of heat. I found that to be true after burning up several radios in a VW I owned. It was such a tight fit into the dash, that there was no way for the radio to dissipate heat. I tried installing a cooling fan at the back of the radio. It helped some, but my fan installation job kept coming apart.

Looks like this turned into an Ethanol thread. In my opinion, ethanol is a good fuel, but it has to be understood that it degrades rubber parts over time. It also attracts moisture, which cars don't like to burn. Maybe these are reasons that Subaru does not produce cars that are flex fuel enabled. I have read that growing some type of grass, (not pot) produces a much better yield of ethanol then corn, but I don't hear that discussed at all these days. I am in favor of any fuel that helps reduce U.S. dependence on oil. The world oil mafia has us by the short hair, and charges us whatever they want to charge us. Just think, pump prices are up a $l.00/gallon over last year this time for no good reason. I still think that oil revenues paid to middle eastern countries gets into the hand of world terrorists to fund their trouble making........ just "letting out my frustration."

All those parts are "bolt ons," and none sound expensive, or time consuming to install. It is worth a call to a few yards to see what parts they might have. It sound like you have enough car left to be able to put her back on the road. Spray cans of paint that come close to matching your existing car paint are available. The result won't look perfect, but not bad either. I have an old Audi that I wrecked several years back. Parts needed were much like what you need. Cost came to something like $250-$300. Any structural damage to the uni-body, radiator, or head light support? Fan behind the radiator okay?

Congrats!! Always very satisfying to fix your car on your own. I have always heard good things about Sea Foam. Only down side is comments that it is hard on engine seals. But, who knows how much, and over what period of time created that comment.