Rooster2

For temp service if there is enough straight pipe to work with on both ends of the break......the soup can can works in a pinch. I have used screw type hose clamps to hold the can in place, or regular horse shoe shaped exhaust clamps. That will make it quiet enough to drive to a muffler shop.

Boy, I bet the exhaust is very loud with the break before the cat! Hard to see by the picture exactly where the pipe broken. Is is broken flush at the entry to the cat? Is there any straight pipe to work with on both ends of the break? Shroud in the way? If so, I have some ideas!

Any thought that the engine knock may be piston slap? The noise, I am told sounds similar. If so, with piston slap, the condition is not deadly to the engine, and you can drive that engine for many more miles.

Last summer, I replaced the front rotors on my 99 OBW, which would be the same size as on your 98. I bought mine on line from Advance Auto Parts on line. Seems like they always have a 20%+ discount going on to create a good price, then picked them up at my local store the same day and saved delivery cost. The discount is only for purchasing on line. I bought their low end line (made in China), and they have been great. They come with a 2 year free replacement should they warp. They seem rather thick, but maybe that is because my old rotors were warn thinner. If you buy these or from elsewhere, suggest you use a screwdriver to pry the rotor dust cover away from the rotor. Otherwise they can rub on the rotor, well mine sure did.

How are your tires? If they have seen better days, I would suggest you look at installing a good set of new tires. On my 99 OBW, I recently went one size larger on the same profile tire. I bought 4 Yokohama Avid TRZ tires, and am very happy with them. They are heavy duty tires with extra firm side walls, and belts under the tread. They would be well suited for off road driving. The size larger provides nearly an extra inch of lift, which you would appreciate on bad roads to avoid bottoming out. The Yokos ride pretty firm, but provide solid confidence that you are driving on tires that you can depend on. Driving out in the middle of no where, it would be wise to take some car hand tools, and belts, and a flashlight with you. A CB radio may be handy, when you go out of cell tower range. A Tom Tom would also be something I would take into parts unknown to keep from getting lost, and would provide accurate directions to gas stations and restaurants. I wouldn't worry much about your motor. Sounds like you have kept it well maintained. Have fun on your new adventure!

Since your axle nut is tight, Yea, I think you need to replace the wheel bearing. Having just replaced my wheel bearing with the help of a friend, I doubt you will need to replace the knuckle. The inner and outer races of the bearing should prevent damage to the knuckle. The races are each about an inch wide, and pressed super tight into the knuckle, which is why a hydraulic press, or hub tamer is required to remove the races from the hub. You prolly already know this about bearing removal. If, however, upon dis-assembly and inspection, it is found there is damage to the hub, then, and only then, would I replace the hub. Yea, I guess you could buy a new hub, which I think costs about $125 at a Subie dealer just to have readily available if needed. Just make sure upon purchase, that the dealer will refund your money, if the part is not needed, and you want to return it. Good luck on this project!

If I remember correctly there is a large nut that tightens up on the end of the axle. See if it is loose, and if so tighten it up, which should remove the play that you are talking about at the wheel bearing. With a help of a friend, we used a hub tamer to R&R a right front wheel bearing on my 99 OBW. It was a nasty job, that I will pay someone to do this job in the future. Unless your wheel bearing starts making weird noises, I wouldn't replace it, if you have this in mind.

I will remember that.

That is worth looking into. The road wheel does have a little bit of wobble that I noticed when spinning the tire/wheel when up off the ground, but is not noticeable when driving. I did super tighten the lugs for the road wheel, which did remove some of the brake wobble, but not all. Having just swapped out the rotor, it will be ez to take apart, pull the rotor off, wire brush the hub-rotor mating surface, and reassemble. If that doesn't fix it, then I will replace the caliper. Thanks for the advise. Rooster 2 (Larry)

Don't think it is the caliper. I am thinking this is a tire issue. Maybe a bad belt in a tire. Sure it would balance fine, and alignment correctly, but still vibrate and pull to one side as you describe. I have had good service from my Discount Tire Store. Ask them to rotate tires front to back, and then drive the car. See if that corrects the problem, or moves the problem to a different corner of the car. If so, then it is a tire problem.

If there is some sort of extra battery drain, when the car is running, maybe you can detect it with motor not started, and with the ignition key turned to the "run" position. Put a meter on the battery, and see what amperage is draining from the battery. Your NAPA store counter guy can do this test. Yea, it is possible to get two bad rebuilds. Stranger things have happened. If so, with your present alternator, I would think the voltage regulator could be the culprit.

Thanks for your story......I am going to replace the caliper next on the part replacement installment plan to see if that fixes the problem.

Thanks for the advise. My gut also says it is the caliper just slightly sticking. Both pads seem to have even wear, not angled, and not warn much, so caliper sticking is still prolly minimal. I lubed the slides and pins, so I don't think there is any sticking with them. I just checked, and for less then $50, I can buy a rebuilt caliper from Advance Auto Parts. Good advise too on using a wire brush on the hub to create a tighter fit. I should have done that, when replacing the rotor last week. Thanks again.........Rooster2, (Larry)

I have owned a number of cars that the spedo is off by as much as 5 mph. It is not uncommon. Cars are just made this way. It is better to just live with it. There is no ez way to fix this. Your GPS is prolly giving you a very correct mph reading.

Seems like you are doing everything correctly to fix the problem. Has the car not started, or been difficult to start after a bout of battery light on the dash? If not, I am thinking you have some electrical gremlin creating a false warning light on the dash. Maybe a ground wire is loose or corroded? You may want to check the water level in the battery. I once bought a new battery, that I installed myself, only a short time later to learn that it was low on water. I never bothered to check the water level, thinking a new battery would be full of water.

My same thought......I had a 91 Leggie with single piston, my 99 OBW has the double piston. I remember the rotor being smaller on the 91, so I don't think a single will fit on a double system. BTW, I just priced a front double piston caliper for my 99 OBW at the Advance Auto Parts website, cost is $61 less current $20 discount, so $41 plus tax, and your old core. If there is a store near you, you can pick up your purchase at their store, and avoid shipping charge. Not a bad price. It is prolly a rebuilt unit. The $20 discount is for web shoppers only, and not available if bought at the store.

What fantastic stuff have you found? Expected a link, but none found.

My 99 OBW right front brake goes thump, thump, thump, when the pedal is lightly applied after driving about 5 minutes. It felt like a slightly warped rotor, so I just replaced that, but it still thumps. There is no pull, and if brake pedal is pressed strongly the thump is gone during braking, and the car comes to a good straight stop. Would this be a caliper issue, or brake pad not sliding properly on the rail, or an issue with the pads? Upon installing the new rotor, I could not see any problem with the caliper, and I made sure to lube the pad slide with anti-sieze. I installed ceramic pads last summer, and have plenty of pad thickness remaining. All bolts, including lug bolts are all tightened up real good. Suggestions welcomed. I took someone's suggestion, and pulled the rotor, and used a wire brush to clean off accumulated rust off the hub. I reassembled, and found I still had the same thump, thump, thump. I did notice that the brake pads sweeping across the facing of the rotor was not consistent. It seemed like the outer half of sweep around the face of the rotor had a brighter metalic sheen look, while the lower inside sweep looked grayer, and duller in color. This presented greater evidence to me, that something was wrong with the caliper. So, I swapped in a rebuilt caliper, and this has solved the problem. Case closed.........no more thump, thump, thump, when the brake pedal is lightly applied,

You know Murphy's law would apply........as soon as you junk it, you will find a need for it.

I have been happy with KYB GR2 struts that I have put on several cars. They are gas charged, so firmer then OEM, without being harsh. Cost is reasonable too, and they last a long time. I think you will be happy with the performance. EZ to find for sale on line.

Good work on the turn signal fix! I was sure you would find the problem to be the bulb socket, when I suggested looking there. I agree, electrical work can be a pain. Simple wiring and checking for continuity is okay, but running around with a meter checking ohm values is something I have no patience for. As for the rear wiper motor, I would go to the wiper electrical motor, pull the wiring connector, and see if you have 12V at the connector with the wiper motor switch turned on. If so, then the motor is bad. Removing the plastic panel that is on the inside of the tailgate door is easy to do to get to the motor. You prolly already know all of this. Unlikely the wiper switch at the steering wheel is bad.

You could powder coat your wheels to any color. They would look really nice, and finish would be durable, but I am thinking powder coating is expensive.

What tire brand did you put on your car? Sounds like the tire you moved to the rear, (and now your problem is solved), has a bad belt or is out of round to cause the pull. Two bad tires out of four is not good at all. Another thought.......are you sure that all tires are aired up to the correct psi? A low tire has more rolling resistance then the others on the car, and will cause the car to pull to the side of the low tire.

Whenever I have spray painted aluminum on a car, it looks good for about 6 months, then starts to flake off, even after the best preparation and priming. If it were me, I would spray clear cote to avoid oxidizing (aluminum rust), and consider the job done. Even if some of the clear cote does come off, it will not be very noticeable, and ez to touch up.

I don't think a particular brand of oil will make any difference in quieting it down. It is the added detergents found in MMO that may make a difference.