Rooster2

My 99 OBW has a slight steering wheel shake at freeway speed. It feels like it might be at the passenger front wheel. It is not a bad shake, just feels like the steering wheel has Parkinson's disease. Some history.........I recently had the half shaft replaced on the right front. The original shaft had actually broken into two pieces where the large nut threads onto the half shaft. The wheel bearing was not replaced, since my mechanic said the bearing appeared undamaged. I was thinking I had bad tires, (like a broken tire belt) so replaced them, but still have the shake. Ball joints and tie rods seem tight. I considered getting a front end alignment, but doubt that will solve this problem. I am thinking the rebuilt half shaft from Autozone may be the culprit. I know AZ half shafts aren't the best at $59.95. Any thoughts on how to proceed??

Same thought as above. The passage ways in the heater core are smaller then in the radiator, so they are prone to plug up. You may get lucky, and find the heater still puts out heat. If your radiator leaks again, don't recommend adding more Barr's. Barr's is an old product that has been around forever. I have used it successfully to stop a heater core leak that was misting up the inside car windows, and making the interior smell of antifreeze. On an old car, that was a lot easier fix then replacing the heater core. Back years ago, I had a 91 Subie Legacy that developed head gasket trouble. It over heated and caused the radiator to leak. I had a radiator shop install an after market unit. It had the square headed plug like you described. It worked just fine. It lacked the OEM cap or cover that the original had, that covered the top length of the radiator.

I bet that is a nice look with the WRX wheels!

I finally pulled the trigger, and today bought 4 each 215/70 r 15 tires for my 99 OBW. Specifically, I bought the Yokohama Avid TRZ tires. I just wanted to report back to the forum that they fit just great, no rubs anywhere, and drive great. Car appears to be lifted bout an inch higher, compared to stock tires that were 205/70 r 15. I would recommend this upgrade to anyone buying tires. The additional cost of a few bucks more seems worth it to me.

What are you wanting to do?

Is the replacement thermostat, an OEM model? If not, is it one of those short coil spring models made by someone like Stant? If so, then this could be your problem. Non OEM thermostats perform just like you describe, not very well.

I suggest you attach a flat of plywood or composite board, or whatever flat piece you have lying around on top of the existing roof rack. Affix the flat board with bungy straps. I have been amazed of the holding strength of multiple bungy straps to hold things in place. Then lay your lumber on the flat board, and bungy that load in place. The whole thing will look red neck, but transporting wood on top of your Outback would never be a pretty sight no matter what.

Anyone use a car MD code reader? I've seen it advertised on TV, but undecided if it is worth the money. I assume it will work on Subies? Cost seems to be around $150+ including shipping and handling.

Nice job..........simply looks OEM.........couldn't look any nicer! Bet your Mom really appreciates the grab handle being there.

a plastic circular push in plug should fill that hole. It's really stupid that the PO or PO mechanic didn't plug the hole.

Without adding a lift kit, I think the larger 15" wheels are going to rub suspension parts.

I have run Trans-X for about 30K miles with no issues. I use Trans-X to curb slow trany engagement from Park to Drive. It works fine for that. I have never had a torque bind issue.

I think part of your hesitation is due to the bad knock sensor. When mine went bad, I experienced a noticeable loss of power and acceleration, though I don't remember hearing any popping or back fire noise. Install a new knock sensor, and see how it runs. How long has it been since new spark plugs have been installed in your ride? Could also be spark plug wire problem too. Does reading your CEL code(s) reveal bad knock sensor only? Any chance other code(s) are there too?

Yea, SeaFoam work great. The only negative that I have heard about the product, is that it is hard on seals.

I just recently had the same trouble on my 99 OBW. I simply pulled off the road wheels, and using a large flat blade screwdriver, I pried back the dust or dirt shield away from the rotor. The shield metal is easily bendable, so that is why it gets bent in the first place. Mine got bent when I installed new rotors, and then later, when I had a shop install a new half shaft.

Good suggestion!

With all the comments on this car not looking original, it would be a good idea to run a carfax on this car to learn more about its history. Wonder why the trunk lid and road wheels were changed from OEM?

I am thinking the shims are an anti brake squeal device.

Since my wife asked the service guy when we were there and he told her it should probably be done, it'll get done sooner rather than later. She's certainly not going to listen to me Your wife must be related to mine. Like yours.....my wife would want the oil changed sooner rather than later, and be on my back to get it done.

I am not familiar with the product, but gotta think trying just a dab the size of a postage stamp on pass side will tell you what gloss level the product will produce. I agree with you, I don't like products that produce a bright shine when applied to the dash board. Just produces too much glare, and doesn't look good.

Also check for ball joint and tie rod wear in the suspension. Also could be loose road wheel lug nuts, I have had that happen.

There was another Toyota/Sub concept vehicle that was shown about 2 years back. It was a Toyota body with Sub drive train. I guess the SubyYota is yet another concept car in the same vein. With Toyota owning 20% of Subaru, the cooperation is understandable.

I share your opinion on all issues: 1.) I don't own an 08 model to know, however, if your car has the fuse holder to disable AWD, and your owner's manual advises to disable AWD when using the spare donut, then it seems like a no brainer.........use the fuse when needed to temp disable the AWD. I seem to remember that with a flat and using the spare donut, you are suppose to put the spare donut on the rear axle only, even though you may have had a flat on the front. This in effect makes for two tire changes, should you have a flat on the front. I have never had to do this. I carry a tire pump that plugs into the cig lighter for power. If I spot a tire going down, I pump the tire up, and head for a tire shop for a tire repair. This is always easier then changing a tire. 2.) If 85 octane works for you, then keep using it. Your engine knock sensor is designed to retard timing if need be to protect the engine should you encounter spark ping. In past cars, higher octane gas gave me marginally better millage, maybe 1 or 2 extra mpg.......but nothing like an extra 5 mpg. 3.) Oil change at 1K miles........not really necessary in my opinion, but I think I would change the oil and filter at least once a year to feel like I am keeping the engine good and clean. Like you, I feel like the Sub dealer people gave you some unusual answers. I have the feeling there are some dealer service people that patrol this website, who may give you better advise. Let's see what they have to say!!

Good advise, brings back memories of 40 years ago when I was in the Air Force at Goodfellow AFB, in San Angelo TX. Even back then there was a base "auto hobby shop," as it was called back then. Plenty of good people available there with good automotive knowledge, and sage auto advise to help your daughter. The shop was well outfitted with a lift, and plenty of tools available on a loan basis. I gotta think that 40+ years makes these base shops a whole lot better. Maybe your daughter can find someone there who knows Subies to work on her car on the cheap.

Since you like to run in the wet, I would suggest you add a snorkel system for your engine air intake. You don't want to risk ruining the motor with water intake causing hydra-lock.