Rooster2

I just replaced the pads on the rear of my 98 OBW last Sunday. I had used anti-seize cream on the lug studs, caliper bolt, and caliper pin, when doing the last brake job. This made everything come apart so easily for pad replacement. Add some cream to the slides that the pads move on is also advised. I can't believe a caliper bolt backed out, and fell off. Someone must not have tightened the bolt during the last brake job. Also be aware, that the caliper bolt fits the two threaded holes in the rotor facing to facilitate rotor removal. Simply screw in the bolt, and the rotor backs out and off for ez removal. Subaru was so smart to think and design this.

good informative article........thanks for posting this here.

I am the guy who wrote the original thread about using Trans-X on this forum. It has been a god send to people with years 99 & 00 auto tranies, that have a particular shifting problem due to a defective seal. However, you don't have this problem, so I would vote NO on using Trans-X. Like you stated, you don't need seal added conditioners that Trans-X provides. Recommend three successive ATF changes for your car, with short drives between drains. You will need to do three, as only about half the ATF can be drained from the trany pan at a time. The remainder stays in the torque converter. Others have removed a fluid return in order to bleed out all ATF at one sitting with the motor running. If you do this, just be sure to stay ahead of the bleed out process by adding fresh ATF during the bleed, so the trany does not run low or out of ATF.

it is just coincidence. Replace the alternator, 10 volt output tells the story. It's shot.

I would suggest you check the obvious. Are you sure the new battery is charged? They usually are, but no guarantees. I have bought more then one battery that was new, and really low on water that created starting problems, so check the water level. I would put a charger on the battery to see if it needs charging, or first try jump starting the car. With battery cables connected for a jump start, see if your car's lights will come on before turning the key. If your new battery is totally dead, a jump start may take 5-10 minutes before enough juice is built up in your battery to start your car.

Tim Mahoney is a sharp marketing guy. When you are a small fry auto company, and Subaru certainly is, you gotta find or develop your niche in the auto industry. To me it began when Subaru made a corporate decision in the early 90's that their entire product line would become all wheel drive. This made them different from Honda, Toyota in particular, as the car to drive where and when the weather gets slippery. Back that up with a continued well engineered and quality made product at a reasonable price, and sales will climb, and that they have. Add to that, a loyal customer following that continues to buy new Subarus, and spreads the word to their families and friends, who in turn buy Subarus. I still would like to see Subaru bring out a small sports car that would compete against the Mazda Miata. There have been pics in the last couple of years of that possibility with a Toyota concept car with Subaru drive train. How cool would that be to see that car or very similar badged car as a Subaru. I am thinking that Subaru could make some money with that product. Share the love..........it's a Subaru.

It has been my experience that the shims are only there to prevent squeal when the brakes are applied. When I buy new brake pads, there are usually shims included in the box with the pads. The new shims don't necessarily look the same as the ones currently on the car. My guess is that each pad manufacture has their own slightly different pad design. All different shim designs will work just fine. It is not a high tech item that has to duplicate exactly what you see on your car. I have also used the tube of rubberized cream that is made to replace shims. It is applied to the back side of brake pads. The cream functions as a replacement for shims, and works well. However, I don't like using the stuff because I create a gooey mess by the time the job is done. Maybe I am using too much of the stuff. At next pad replacement, I have to use a knife to cut the old hardened cream off.

Nobody has mentioned it yet.....a major leak of coolant could come from a split radiator hose. It is worth a few minutes of your time to inspect the hoses for damage.

I have read that Seafoam does a good job cleaning out engine deposits, but others have said that it is tough on engine seals. This may or may not be true. Suggest replacing the plug wires and spark plugs first. I wouldn't replace the coil pack unless it is causing a misfire. There is no moving parts in a coil pack, so they don't break that often.

Like others have said, I too think the white smoke is from over heating. You stated that your oil dip stick showed the motor was not low on oil, so I don't think there is an oil issue connected to this break down. It is possible that you may have a blown head gasket. The 2.2 motor is not prone to do this, but I did have a 1991 with the 2.2 motor that blew a head gasket, so it is something to be aware of. At this point, turn the key to see if it will turn over and start. If so, suggest changing the thermostat and rad cap like others have said. If motor runs okay, take only trips close to home, and constantly watch the temp gauge for over heating. When my 2.2 blew a head gasket, it would take about 10 minutes of driving from a stone cold condition to see the temp gauge start climbing in a hurry to HOT.

I don't recommend dropping the pan just to check on the metal filter screen, or just to see what the bottom of the AT looks like. It is easy enough job dropping the plan. Replacing the pan gasket upon reassembly is nasty. You will absolutely need a dremel tool or similar to grind off the remnants of the old pan gasket from the trany, and the the pan surfaces. It is difficult to find the space to do this work, unless you can get your car up on a lift. Even with good prep, it is still easy to create a pan leak upon reassembly. This lesson I learned a few years back from experience. I will never casually drop a pan again.

I use the Bosch platinum with the single tip that doesn't require gapping. Like said, no problem. Let us know what you learned from code pulling.

I went to a muffler shop that cuts and bends pipe for repairs, when my 99 OBW developed a rusted pipe leak just behind the resonator. My resonator did not look to be in the best of shape, so I had the shop torch off the resonator and bad section of pipe. They then used their shop equipment to bent a section of new pipe, and welded in the section of pipe to replace what they had removed. Cost was under $50, and system is now quiet. Removing the resonator did not make the exhaust louder. I can't detect any noise level difference with or without the resonator. Why does Subaru bother to have a resonator in the system? Not many muffler shops do cut, pipe bend, and weld. Check your tel yellow pages, or search on line for a shop that will. It is usually a small family owned, non franchise shop that does this type of work. Cost is a lot less, with no screwing around trying to get the right size donut gasket to fit. I would stay with your original cat. No need to replace if it is not throwing a code.

I use Bosch plugs with no issues, and good millage. I can't imagine the Bosch plugs as the source of your problem. Have you replaced the air cleaner, or at least looked at it to see how dirty it might be? Really important to see what code may be stored aboard the car. Maybe the 02 sensor is not right. A code pull will identify that. It is possible that you may have simply gotten a bad tank of gas. Maybe it had a little water mixed in the gas. Just my 2 cents worth.

I replaced the rotors and pads at all four corners on my 99 OBW. I bought the parts from Autozone. It was an ez job. Recommend you coat the slides with antisieze cream. I also apply the product to the lug studs. I upgraded to Autozone ceramic pads. I also took the extra time to bleed out/replace the brake fluid. What bled out was the color of ice tea.

Misfire causes the engine to not rev up properly, or hold speed properly, so the trany will shift back and forth to a lower and higher gear in the process. So, yea you could easily think there is a trany issue, when it is an engine problem. Replace your plug wires, and maybe plugs too, if the code read out indicates a misfire.

If you buy it, I would suggest having it towed to a shop, or to your home. It is not worth having a break down, or stalling out and blocking traffic on your 5 mile drive. You don't want to be talking to the cops regarding blocking traffic, and being a road hazard, when the title is not yet in your name, and you have no insurance on the car. If all wheel drive, make sure that the car is "flat bed" towed, not towed with two wheels still on the pavement. Flat bedding prevents damage to the all wheel dive. Good luck!

I have never heard of the term "zero front brakes." Guess that means they are saying that your front pads are wearing down, or getting thin, and needing replacement. Guess the scare tactic term of "zero front brakes" sounds a lot more urgent and dangerous then telling you simply that you need new front brake pads soon. Replacing brake pads is really easy on a Subie. Even a cave man could do it. Like others said, go to an independent shop, if you aren't able to do it yourself. Ask for a brake inspection before telling them to replace the front pads. You don't want to waste money, if the front pads are still good. No need to have this work done by the dealer at a higher cost. Since your brakes are not squealing or grinding, then your rotors are prolly not damaged. Have only the fronts replaced, the rears last twice as long as the front. Something like 80% of all braking is done by the front brakes. Also prolly a good idea to have the brake fluid flushed, and replaced with new fluid.

I would start with new spark plugs first, or at least pulling the plugs to see how clean they are. With the 2.2 motor, it is not difficult pulling plugs. It sounds like it may only be running or 2 or 3 cylinders. If plugs don't fix, then plug wires. That is just for "starts."

Glad to read that you are happy now with your trany. I have never been too particular on the ATF that I put in my Subies. As long as the label said Dextron or Dextron equiv or compatible, I would use it. Never have had any problems over the years.

If the cylinder wall is undamaged, I would consider not replacing the piston. Like earlier said, it looks like cosmetic damage to the piston. Clean the top of the piston, and then judge what damage is really there. I have read repeatedly here on this forum, that a broken timing belt does not damage the piston top.

I suggest you replace all spark plugs and the wires. Also, replace the EGR valve. I would also run a can of Chevron Techron injector cleaner through the gas tank. Did cleaning the 02 sensor remove the CEL code? The misfire over an extended period of time may have damaged the 02 sensor.

How many mile on the 96 motor? Does it still run? If approaching 200K, I would recommend replacing the motor. Also, if over heated repeatedly, the motor could be cooked, and again not worth over hauling. So, I am thinking a replacement 2.2 motor would be a good way to go. It bolts in and is plug and play.

No, I think the ATF is being pumped out of the trany only, hose would not enter torque converter.

Start with the obvious..........replace one head light, and see if the new bulb yields both low and high beam, if so............replace second head light. Don't have your son touch the glass envelope of the bulb. Skin contact yields small amount of oil, which causes bulb to over heat and burn out early. If touched, clean off with rubbing alcohol. Hard to believe that the alternator is responsible for this. If so, there would be other electrical problems with the car.