Rooster2

Injector cleaner takes maybe 25 miles of driving before any noticeable improvement is felt. With your "bucking bronco" Subie that may be the worst 25 miles of driving in your life. Gotta think your problem won't be solved with injector cleaner, but it can't hurt.

You can pick up a used Mass Airflow Sensor at a wrecking yard on the cheap. Pulling the codes, may even tell you that this sensor is bad.

Interesting road info you provided. I hope replacing the knock sensor fixes your problem. Let us know!

I have always used a high quality injector cleaner additive to the gas tank. Chevron Techron is very good, as well as one sold by Lucas Oil. The good cleaner additives cost $6 to $7/bottle. Avoid the cheaper cleaners that sell for less. They are mostly just alcohol, and don't work well. I keep thinking about how your motor is misbehaving, and can't help but think that it must be something simple, and prolly inexpensive to fix the problem. Otherwise, the motor would not rev up and run well and strong at high rpm. I hope pulling the codes tells you exactly what is wrong. PO saying the problem is misfire, may or may not be accurate. You have no way of knowing if he was telling you the truth. Yea, it could be the injectors, but maybe something simple like a sensor. But, I see that you replaced possible problem sensors.

I have always associated a bad fuel pump with an inability to provide gas at high rpm, so maybe your fuel pump is okay. Does pulling the code(s) yield any more information then just "misfire?"

fuel filter and or failing fuel pump?? You have addressed most everything electrical.

Since you see the plugs are soaked with black gas/oil, I agree with you that you are not getting spark to the plugs. If you haven't done so, check to see that all plug wires are on correctly, and are plugged in properly to the coil pack. However, I am thinking that you have already done this. Swap out coil packs, if you have access to one. Any chance that you accidentally crossed plug wires on reassembly to 1 and 3?

It is a 1.6 never mind the performance Had four Rotarians from Holland visit our Rotary Club in Zionsville, IN last summer. They put on a good power point show and tell about Holland that was very interesting. I remember seeing some interstate roads in the presentation, but most appeared to be 2 lane slow driving roads, so I guess your 1.6 motor is sufficient. The group also said that gasoline cost was about twice as expensive or more compared to the US. No wonder you use direct injection propane.

Highly recommend the GR-2 struts. I have put them on several cars. Love the performance for the price, and highly recommend them. I haven't bought them for a while, so don't know current prices. Suggest you check out prices at several on line parts houses to see if $158 is competitive.

Changing the ATF three times get rid of all the old fluid may help, as each plug drain only drains about half the ATF from the system. Then drive around some between changes. Then, add the Trans-X at time of third and final ATF change. Hmmmmmmmmm....guess also that Trans-X could be added before ATF changes to clean out gummed valve body. Just drain out a pint of ATF before adding Trans-X.

Your '95 would have had the 2.2 motor, which is a non interference motor. So, when the timing belt broke, it would not have damaged the valves or pistons. A simple belt replacement would have put your car back on the road, if that was its only issue. I would suggest you look around on Craig's list, or E-bay for a used Subie. If for sale by owner, ask to see the service receipts on the car to see what repairs have been done. You may also want to do a Carfax on a car to learn about its history. I think it is difficult to tell if a motor was half cooked from over heating before head gasket replacement. I simply listen to the motor at idle, and at speed for any strange noises, and see if the motor has good responsive power during a test drive. I also try to test drive for an extended period of time to see if it wants to over heat. As far as Subie wagons go, the Impreza OBS is narrower and shorter then a Leggie wagon or Leggie Outback. In my opinion, the Leggie's extra room is the better choice of the two sizes, but that is only my opinion. Drive train is pretty much the same among all Subarus. Good luck on your car search!

When my knock sensor went bad on my OBW with the 2.5 motor, the CEL would come on, then turn itself off, for varying period of times. It is a rather easy do it yourself replacement job. It is kinda hard to find, if you don't know where it is, and what to look for. Assuming you know what to look for, it is best to use a wobbler and a short extension on a 3/8" drive to R & R. The reason for this, is that there is not a straight shot with a drive and socket to reach the sensor to remove it from the block. Using the wobbler, you can reach the sensor from an angle. Upon installing the new sensor, take care to not over tighten it. Just snug it up, to avoid damaging it. If you are talking the equivalent of $180 in USD, then that is expensive. Here in the U.S., I am thinking I bought mine for about $80 out the door about 3 years ago. You should be able to buy a knock sensor on line at a reasonable price. You can continue driving your car with a bad sensor for a while. However, your fuel millage and performance will suffer a little. Good luck on getting this repaired.

Welcome to this forum. Lots of people willing to help you here. Suggest on any future thread that you write, to be very specific to describe what your problem is on the title line. You will get more people to respond to you that way. Simply titling your thread as "help," doesn't say much. Swap out the intake, putting 97 intake on 95 motor. Should bolt up. I am thinking the wiring harness can't be that much different, though I really don't have hands on experience on 95 or 97 model. My guess is that the wiring may just have different style connectors. That was the issue I had when I swapped a 2.2 from a 92 into a 91.

If it were me, I would go to a shop that has a good reputation for doing front end alignments. Have the front end aligned, and have the entire front suspension checked for anything worn which could cause any "play", like bad ball joints and tie rods. +1 also on bad half shaft as a possibility. I had that happen on my OBW. It shook like crazy for a few miles on the interstate one day, but then the shaking went away, and never returned. Then the half shaft started making some noise, so I swapped it out. Now no noise, and no shaking.

I am thinking bad gas, maybe got some water mixed in with the gas. Suggest you add a bottle of "dry gas," to the gas tank to see if that helps.

I don't think you have a relay or flasher problem, otherwise the RH side wouldn't work too. Suggest you check the turn signal bulbs to see if they are working on the LH side of your car. Bet you have a bulb filament burned out.

The customer service guys at Crutchfield electronics have always been very competent and super helpful fielding questions like yours over the phone. I would call them first vs emailing them or viewing their website.

If it were me, I would replace the brake booster, and maybe the master cylinder as well. If your work prevents an accident, then your work was very worthwhile.

Disagree about dropping the trans pan. I did that only once to learn that was a mistake. I found very minimal metal particles on the magnet, and fine mesh screen was absolutely clean. So, dropping the pan accomplished absolutely nothing. Then the fun began. Cleaning off old gasket is really a nasty job, prolly best done with a dremmel tool. Then upon reassembly, it is really difficult to keep from having a pan leak, no matter how nicely you torque the bolts. Simply use the drain plug to drain old ATF, or pull a return line to pump the old ATF out. Just my 2 cents worth.

There is a current thread titled "auto trany help" on this forum right now. Read the problem, sounds similar to yours, read the responses. Suggestions may help fix your problem.

Gotta think you bought the car for a song, since it didn't start or run well. Now with retiming, you say all is well. Nice to buy a car on the cheap, then get it running right. Good luck to you.

Glad to hear that the ATF change and Trans-X have improved your trany performance. I hope the slipping issue is behind you. Nice pix on your 92. I had a 91 that was the same color as yours. In fact looks the same all over. I miss those nice mouse fur fabric seats that I bet yours has. They were so compfy. Much better then my current 99 OBW.

Be aware if you are unaware, that your Subie has a drain bolt on the bottom of the trany pan. Draining fluid will only drain about half the trany fluid in the system. The remainder stays in the torque converter. To do a good fluid change, suggest draining, filling, then drive for 5 minutes between changes. Do this routine three times. Don't drop the pan cover on the bottom of the trany. The little screen mesh never gets clogged inside the pan cover, and then it is a bear to clean off all surfaces when reinstalling the pan cover. Then, really difficult to prevent fluid leaks from the pan. It is possible that the quart of extra fluid in your trany is causing your problem. It may be foaming, and not lubing your trany. Be aware that low to full mark on the ATF dip stick is only about a pint of trany fluid. So, easy to over fill it. I bet that is what previous owner did. Keep us posted on your progress.

Definitely sounds like a wiring problem, since replacing the wiper motor did not fix the problem. Pay particular attention to wiring connections at connectors, and look for a bad ground wire that may be corroded. Lots of times a bad ground connection is the culprit.

1st, i prefer to buy locally vs online for some things, tires being one of those things. Same thought, I buy locally. By the time you buy tires on line, then pay the shipping cost, the overall cost works out to be about the same, as buying locally and paying the sales tax. I don't think that Subarus are any different then any other car as far as tire needs is concerned. I remember reading that Subaru AWD is about 90% front wheel drive, and 10% rear wheel drive. So rolling wise, not that much different then any other car. I personally like Michelin tires. Expensive, yet always perform very well, and can wear for 80K miles. In the long run, cost per that many miles makes them an excellent value. Never had an issue ever with Michelin tires as far as tire balance or quality.