Rooster2

Maybe replace the EGR valve. EZ to do.

For what it is worth........someone wrote on this forum not that long ago, that they add grease to a torn boot, then wrap the entire boot with seran wrap. Yea, seran wrap clings to itself, but who knows, this band-aid approach might just work to stop the grease from flinging back out. It is a cheap and easy "worth a try," can't hurt to try this.

Good call on the bluish tint to replacement head light bulbs. I got suckered into a pair of those bulbs some time back. They looked really cool, when looking at the front of your car to see the bluish lamps, but light output was terrible when driving. I ditched those bulbs in a matter of days, and went back to OEMs. There are now brighter bulbs being sold these days. I can't remember the manufacturer, but saw their ads on TV some time ago. Suggest you talk to any parts counter guy at an auto parts store, and ask his opinion. The guy who sells them should be able to point you in the direction of who makes better bulbs.

Well if it is simply a reminder to replace the EGR valve, it is a simple and inexpensive project. Buy the part at a parts store, then remove old one, install new one, with minimal labor involved. The parts store counter guy should be able to tell you where to install the new EGR valve. Heard on the news about your massive blizzard snow storm, and the roof falling in on the Metrodome in the cities. Winter starts in another 9 days.......how much worse can it get?

I know it is a little late to tell you now. Several companies sell stereo installation kits. It makes installation of an after market radio real simple. Simply remove the original radio, then plug in the the installation kit harness into wiring into the car's wiring system. This eliminates any wire cutting that the college kids did.

I did my Outback brakes last summer. I pulled the pins, and did some light sanding with fine grit sand paper on any rusty areas. Upon reassembly, I used antisieze. It is a graphite cream, and works as a good lubricant. I coated the pins, also used it on the slides for the pads, and on the rotor where the back of the road wheel bolts up to it. Also, used on the threads of the studs for the lug nuts. Makes for a lot easier time of doing the brakes next time, or even having to change a tire to put on a spare in case of a flat. Later, I had a tire going down. I went to a tire shop to patch a nail hole. The guy doing the work complimented me on the liberal use of antisieze. Said he wished a lot more people would take the small extra amount of time to do this. He said it makes his work a lot easier. Next to my car, was a Chevy that they had already broken two lug studs in the last five minutes, because the lug nuts were rusted on. Too bad, a little antisieze would have prevented that.

Prolly best to replace the blower motor. It is an ez swap out. Get a replacement from a wrecking yard. Be glad to give you detailed info if you desire.

There is a tensioner pulley that one of the fan belts uses. In the past, I have had the bearing go bad in that pulley.

a bandaid fix is to add a bottle of "stop oil leak" available at any auto parts store. It won't cure the problem, but adding this to my 99 OBW at every oil change has stopped leakage by about 75% over the past year. The product swells the gaskets for a better seal. I don't smell oil burning off my exhaust any more, and have few new oil spots on my driveway. IMHO, I have trouble justifying a lot of major work, and $ spent on any car over 10 years old, just to stop oil leakage.

If Wix, then great!

Beyond just having a bad tail light/stop light bulb, it is possible that the bulb socket is bad. I haven't seen that on a Subie, but did find that to be the problem on a Toyota minivan. In that case the plastic bulb holder was cracked, so the bulb could no longer seat properly to make good electrical contact. Replacing the bulb socket fixed the problem. Tracking down any suspected bad grounding problem is always a pain in the neck. It is time consuming and frustrating, and best done with a multimeter to check electrical continuity and grounding. I have even rewired tail lights starting at the head light switch, when all else fails.

I bet your trany could use a drain and fill, three times worth. Drive at least 5 minutes between drain and fills. The reason for doing this three times, is that only about half of the ATF can be drained at one time. The rest remains in the torque converter. Some guys pull off a trany cooler hose to flush out all old trany fluid. See this info here in the "search" portion of website archives.

Yea.......wouldn't be surprised if it is a cheap Fram, but who knows??

Just had the same problem. My boot wasn't torn, I regreased, but still noised persisted, so I replaced the half shaft. That fixed the problem.

Who makes the Walmart house brand filter? Any good?

Sounds like a ground wire problem with your lights. Check wiring for corrosion at any grounding point, particularity where any wiring is exposed to road salt corrosion. The tail light and braking light problem sounds like a simple bulb replacement. One of the filaments is bad, the one for the tail light, while the filament for the braking light is still good. One bulb contains both filaments.

WOW........Baddest sounding 4 cylinder that I have ever heard. I like hearing the subtle turbo whine too. Not really street driveable for long. The cops would see to that. Sounds ready for the drag strip.

Agree with others, it is prolly a half shaft, or maybe both half shafts gone bad. Crawl underneath the engine with a flashlight and look at both the inner and outer boots at each end of a half shaft. My guess is that you will find a torn boot or two that has been that way for quite a while. Replacing the half shaft(s) is an ez do it yourself job, or not costly, about $135 in labor per side if work is done at a garage. I think the 2000 model went to phase 2 engine, so head gasket problem is minimized. On that motor, a bad HG will leak coolant to the outside, but not to the cooling system. So issue is simply running low on coolant if you have HG problems. An additive by Subaru is available for the cooling system to fix this. Good luck with your new car. Looks good in the picture.

A word of caution.............Upon knock sensor installation, remember to just snug up the bolt. Otherwise, if you really crank down on the bolt to tighten it, you will likely crack and break the plastic sensor and ruin it.

You should be able to tell if you hear the tell tale "rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr" sound. It can be heard when taking a freeway exit or a sharp turn at speed. On a right turn, the load bearing is on the left wheel, therefore on a left turn, the load bearing is on the right wheel. Which ever side has the load bearing producing the rrrrrrrrr sound is your culprit.

Bubbles are never a good thing. In case you don't know, the bubbles are caused by exhaust gas leaking through the bad head gasket, then entering the cooling system. The build up of hot gas vapor causes the engine to over heat. At first a small amount of gas vapor may not be enough to cause over heating. However, with time it will only get worse.

Pull off the cap, and check the fluid level. It might be low. If not low, then pump is prolly going bad. Replace with one from a wrecking yard. Cost is about $35.00

Nice car!! Reminds me of the 91 LS wagon that I had. I remember the seats being super compfy, and the "mouse fur" fabric interior being rather luxurious. The 2.2 motor is bullet proof, and good for 300K+ miles before needing a rebuild. You got yourself a nice car. Little bit of work you put into her will make her that much nicer.

Your above info is correct.