Rooster2

Yea, the mechanism gets bound up with rust and crud, which prevents the return spring from pulling the mechanism back down. I bought a replacement latch unit for about $35 on line about a year ago. I tried using white grease, WD-40, and PB Blaster to lube up the rusty mechanism. All the lubes would work for only about a month or so, then it was back to binding up again. The only sure fire fix is to replace the latch unit.

How old is the battery?

I am thinking this car hasn't run for a long time, so it prolly has some pretty skunky gas left in the tank. Really bad gas makes for a car that may not start. I don't have a solution for bad gas in the tank, but maybe someone else does.

Because your car was driven for a while with one plug not fireing, I suggest you change your car's oil right away, particularly if oil on the dip stick appears runny, and smells like gasoline. Unburned gas runs down the cylinder walls into the oil pan to dilute the oil, and make for poor lubrication. If a lot of gasoline accumulates in the oil pan, there is a chance that the gas fumes will explode. I have heard of this happening on old cars with carburetors.

Surprised to see that it is right hand drive. I did not know that Subaru made anything like this back in '95.

Glad to hear that you got the glass in. Agree with you, about waiting until Spring to see why the scissors up and down action is jamming. This time of year is not the best time of year to be outside working in the cold. At least you got the window glass in the up position to keep out the weather for the winter.

I had the same problem a few years back, and was able to stop the leakage permanently by adding Alumaseal additive to the cooling system. Don't add more then one package to the system, or it may block the flow of coolant through your heater core. It is worth using this product first, before tearing the entire dash out to replace the heater core. That is major and costly work. It is best to drain, flush, and add new antifreeze first, before adding Alumaseal.

+1 that you are having continuing problems with the head gaskets. I know that is not what you want to hear. I hope you can take it back to whoever did the work, and get it fixed under warranty.

I think the external AT filter did not start until the 1999 models. When I change my ATF, I drain and fill three times, with at least 5 minutes of driving between changes. The reason for this is that you can only drain about half of the ATF out with each drain. The other half stays in the torque converter, and won't drain out. Each drain is about 4 quarts and 1 pint. Yea, the three changes requires a total of about 14 quarts of ATF, but that is a lot less costly then having the ATF pressure drained at a shop. Also, good to know is that the AT dip stick from the low mark to high mark is only about one pint of fluid, so pour slowly, so you don't over fill. Yea, I think you know, the fluid level should be checked with the engine warmed up, and engine running. Trany should not be over filled with ATF to prevent fluid aeration. I am not aware of a torx head screw/bolt application on the auto trany. My 98 doesn't have any torx heads at all. I am thinking that you will find a drain plug bolt on your trany pan that looks like the drain plug bolt on the oil pan. The drain plug will have a 17MM bolt pattern. Suggest that you do NOT drop the AT pan to change the filter screen inside. It sounds like a good idea, but it is not. I did that once, only to find the fine mesh screen absolutely clean. Then, I had a difficult time removing the old gasket, then adding a new gasket to reseal the pan to prevent leakage. Others have said the same thing here on this forum... that dropping the pan for filter screen replacement is a waste of time. Good luck on your ATF change. Your Subie will love the TLC you are giving her.

The trany dip stick from low mark to full mark is only about a pint, so pour just a little ATF at a time. Otherwise, it is really easy to over fill the transmission.

Since I read that you are digging into it, I assume you bought the car. Is it as easy as replacing the idler pulley and TB to get her running again?

Damage doesn't look that bad. Can't see what is broken inside the sheet metal, until the sheet metal is peeled away. Looks like maybe an entire "front clip" minus driver side fender, and bumper, or bumper cover would be a good starting point in parts to start a rebuild. To me the car looks very repairable. Suggest not giving up on Chuck just yet.

My cargo light turns on when the lift gate is up. I haven't looked, but there must be a plunger type switch to turn it on and off. Look around the the border of the lift gate opening for the switch. Maybe it is defective.

I agree that this could be a condenser problem. Any idea how many of the fins got bent over? Maybe small rocks getting kicked up by cars in front of you? See if you can straighten out the fins before considering replacing the condenser.

Suggest you go to an auto parts store, one of the chain stores like Autozone, or Advance. The counter guy will read the code with his instrument, and tell you what code is setting off your check engine light. There is no cost for this service. If it is a bad knock sensor, or something else, well then you are at the right store at the right time to buy parts to fix the problem. Changing a knock sensor is relatively easy, just a little awkward to find, and get a wrench on to remove. Check the search archives on this forum to see pixs and write ups on how to do it.

I am under the impression that a defective knock sensor would put the engine computer in limp mode by slightly retarding the timing. Sure the car will keep running, and not leave anyone stranded, but performance and gas millage will suffer slightly. If I am correct, then detonation would not occur.

Still if the body is decent, and the interior half way clean, buying at $300 or less could be a good deal. Did you check the oil level? Those old 2.2 motors were built tough, and nearly bullet proof. It may not take much to get that motor running good again.

92 EJ22 is definitely NON interference. So, if the seller swears it is interference, don't argue with him. Buy the car on the cheap, by telling him the valves and maybe the pistons are now shot, so it is going to take a new engine. You should therefore be able to buy the car for near scrap value of $100-$200.

Vacuum leak?

The pump is probably bad. you may be able to get a generic replacement from the local parts store. Agree that the pump is prolly bad. Squirter pumps are very generic. I once replaced a pump for my VW with one that was made for a Ford. It fit and worked perfectly.But first, wire it directly to 12V to see if it will work. Just make 12V contact for a second or two, as the washer fluid is designed to cool the pump motor from over heating. If it doesn't work, take your old pump motor to a parts store to find a generic. Usually there is a display board with pump motors, just find one that looks like your old one. This will cost a whole lot less then going to the dealer.

No, I am pretty sure the motors will not interchange from side to side.

Steve, Nice work on replacing the rotor and pads. I like your liberal use of antisieze on the slides and lug studs. I do the very exact thing. Did you also bleed out the diet coke looking brake fluid with some fresh DOT 3? BTW, I tighten my lug nuts by hand, then after a couple of days of driving, I make sure they are good and tight. Usually, the lugs tighten down just a little more.

Can you post a picture, or draw a picture of what you got? I think seeing something would help with advise.

On 5/14/09, I bought the handle from Lee's Summit Subaru in Missouri thru their website, http://www.leessummitsubaru.com. Part # 62150AA211. Part cost $22.62, shipping $10.50, Total: $33.12. I knew I kept the receipt just to help you. This was for my 99 OBW to replace handle that was rusted and jamming/sticking. The same part will fit your 97. It is an ez to do project to replace the handle. It does require removing the interior panel from the tail gate, but ez to do.

Before doing all that work, try adding the ATF to the oil as suggested earlier, then drive ez for about 15 minutes, or even just let idle for 15 minutes, then change oil and filter. I bet this will quiet things down.