Rooster2

The knock sensor is electronic, so it's input to the ECU to retard or advance engine timing is super quick within milliseconds. That is way faster then the seconds or minutes that you are thinking about. It has always been my understanding that ping is caused by carbon engine deposits on the face of the piston or on the head. Short of pulling the heads to look for the deposits, you may want to try a gas additive. A trip to a car parts store should yield you a product to add to your gas tank. I would ask the counter people for advise on which product to buy. It might help.

This dilemma of high miles with an HG issue has been asked before. My opinion is to drop in a good used 2.2 motor for good reliability. With 245K miles on the odo, the motor is nearing the end of its useful life. I don't think it is advisable to put good time and money in a nearly worn out motor.

I too, would think a bad MC, particularly since the brake pedal keeps sinking to the floor. I don't think a new one is that costly, so you are not out much money if you install one yourself. It will give you the opportunity to use your bleeder tool again.

I guess you could try flattening out the twisted condenser, and hope it doesn't leak. It was prolly damaged in shipping. Ask Rockauto or shipper how to request a damage claim.

Using search insert the words "Legacy tailgate latch." Lots written there, some by me, plus links for more info. Info regards rusted latch, maybe, maybe not your problem. Maybe you have already read these links on your search. If it is strictly a problem regarding inserting the key, then lube the lock cylinder. Squirt some WD-40, using the small plastic wand to spray into the key hole. Doing this will surely permit your key to enter the lock.

This is a typical Legacy/Outback wagon problem. The latch mechanism rusts over time to cause binding and jaming. You can lube it up with spray grease that will help for a couple of months, but the problem will return. I can't remember all the particulars, when I replace mine on my 99 OBW (same body style as your car). I removed the inside panel on the lift gate to gain access to the mechanism. I bought my latch mechanism on line for about $35. It was easy to install. If you do a "search" in the archives on this forum, you will see write ups on how to fix this problem better then what I have described. If by chance your problem is strictly a key issue, spray some key lube into the key slot to lubricate the key tumblers. Still, I am betting that you have a rusted latch mechanism.

Go to an auto parts store like Autozone or Advance, etc, and get the codes scanned and cleared at no cost!

If it is strictly an issue of your hands being large and in the way, yet there is still room to insert the bolt into the hole, try this: Apply something like a bit of sticky putty, chewed bubble gum, or window caulk to the inside top of your socket. The idea is apply a substance that will temporarily hold your bolt inside the socket to keep it from falling out. With your hands turn the drive extension, with maybe using a wobbler (if at a bad angle) with socket attached, then hand tighten the bolt (a few threads) to get it started into the hole. Then apply the drive handle to completely tighten down the bolt. The hand tightening gives you a lot better feel of correctly inserting the bolt to prevent cross threading, however, I bet you already know this part.

Thanks Legacy777, both good ideas..........Rooster2 (Larry)

I am thinking your pump is bad, if not pumping. Pull the output line at the pump, then have a friend operate the switch, and you watch for water output from the pulled line. If nothing happens, then your pump is bad. Also, may want to look at the fuse, it is possible that the fuse is blown.

I would have replaced the MC as well to fix the problem. Since you have bled the system, all should work. If you replaced with a used or rebuilt MC, there is a chance the "new" MC could be defective. Are you finding any rust on the brake lines that is severe enough to cause even minor fluid leak? That could be why the brakes are weak.

I have a 99 OBW. Recently it has decided to slightly hesitate or stumble upon acceleration from a stop for the past month. Once above 20 mph, it runs great. I am thinking it is a fuel problem. With my previous tank of gas, the problem went away. Now with new tank of gas, it is back again. Anybody with any thoughts? Good to see USMB back again after being down for a week. I suspect a hacker created problems, or maybe it was down time for maintenance and upgrade. Anybody know?

I had this problem on a 91 Leggie. Finally got it super tightened, and used lock tight on the bolt threads to keep the bolt from ever thinking of backing out.

YES, big time gouge on your wallet from that shop. If it were me, I would never go back there again!

If you buy and 02 sensor, suggest you buy one with the correct electrical connector. I have never had any success buying a generic sensor, and soldering the old connector to the new sensor.

My suggestion is to go with 195X75X14. It will be a little taller, without running the risk of rubbing front wheels when turning and hitting a bump at the same time.

Suggest you post above as a new thread. You will get more response to your question.

I am thinking that squirting out a little grease is not anything to worry about. However, try yanking back and forth on the tie rod to see if there is any wear that has created "play" or looseness at the joint. I rather doubt that you will find any play, but if so, then consider replacement.

+1 on above. I have a 99 that leaks oil from somewhere, prolly mostly valve covers. With high mileage and age, I have a hard time justifying time and money on tear downs just to fix minor oil leaks. With my last oil change, I aded a pint of oil stop leak, and it has helped a lot. My oil drips on the drive way have practically ceased. I will prolly add a pint of stop leak at all future oil changes.

When doing the swap out, suggest using a wobbler between your drive extension and the socket, as the securing bolt cannot be removed on a straight line set up. Also, just snug up the bolt on replacement, as over tightening will break the plastic sensor unit. Good luck on this project. Hope it eliminates your CEL, and your car runs better.

Since R-12 was declared environmentally unsafe, I have to think the switch to R-134a must be good for the environment. I would be concerned about adding something else to a system designed for 134a.

I would have concerns regarding using a quart of ATF to replace a quart of oil. Yes, ATF would certainly lower the oil viscosity to some degree. Why would you want to use ATF as a substitute for motor oil? Are you thinking that ATF is a way of adding detergent quality to the motor oil? In my opinion, I would instead be more inclined to change oil every 3000 miles to keep the engine clean.

When I replace brake pads, I find something to rest the caliper upon while replacing the pads. Usually, it is an old cardboard box. The idea is that you don't want the caliper to "hang" down from the brake line. Rubber brake lines aren't designed to support the weight of the caliper. I agree with others, you don't need to replace the rotors if they have not been producing vibration or pulsing, when the brakes are applied. I used to live in the Cleveland area (Strongsville), so I remember that a lot of salt was applied to the roads. Suggest you spray the caliper bolts with PB blaster and wait a while for the liquid to soak in. Otherwise, the bolts may be rusted in tight. Suggest that you also replace (bleed out) the brake fluid in your braking system. If it is the original since 02, the fluid is prolly pretty dark and nasty looking. Brake pads from an auto parts store don't cost much. Suggest you buy their better pads, but not necessarily their best pads. Good luck on your brake job! Larry (Rooster2)

I have had this happen before, prolly moisture on wires and connectors. Suggest you let the motor idle to get hot, or at the least open the hood and let the sun beat down on the motor for several hours. Once dried out, car should run normally.

If it were me, I would install new spark plugs and wire set to fix the slight miss problem. If that doesn't fix it, I would add a can of injector cleaner to the gas tank. Use the good stuff that cost about $6/can, like Techron. Anything cheaper won't work well in my opinion. I have used aftermarket half shafts from auto part stores with no problems. However, others have had problems. At a consumer cost of about $65 per axel, I don't think the axle rebuild companies spend much labor time, or install many new parts to complete a rebuild. I suspect they mostly clean up the joints, add fresh grease, new boots, and call it a rebuild. I agree that your shifter bushings are prolly shot. I have never replace bushings, but don't think it would be that difficult. Others here can advise you on work involved. I don't know if the 2.2 motor in your 96 is a valve interference motor or not. Irregardless, you will need to replace the timing belt, and prolly some pullys to gain engine reliability. Otherwise, breaking a worn out timing belt makes for a bad day. Perhaps previous owner can tell you when the belt was last changed, or a receipt in the glove box can tell you that, and if changed not long ago, then the current belt will last you for a while. Prolly a good idea to look at the antifreeze in the cooling system. If the coolant looks dark and ugly, then best to drain, and flush, then add new antifreeze. Subies are long distance cars. Many owers are still on the road with 300K+ miles on the odometer. Have fun with your new car, and welcome to this forum.