Rooster2

I used toothpaste on a wet paper towel, and cleaned by hand. Worked pretty good. I did not use polish afterwards, but think that would help too.

A can of Seafoam may help this problem. Suggest you change the oil within a few days of using the product, as it can be hard on engine seals if left in the engine for a lengthy period of time.

Glad to hear that Seafoam worked well for you. I have heard only good things about the product. However, I have read that Seafoam is hard on engine seals, so good that you are changing oil a couple of times after the product has done it's work.

Pretty sure they are all the same amongst Leggies/Impreza. Update.........read on another thread on this forum that there are a variety of sizes. See very recent thread re: 97 OBW A/C issues. Then again, maybe you wrote the original thread.

With these questions, are you trying to convert an R-12 to R-134? If so.... In my experience the Schrader valves are generic to all R-12 systems in all cars, and 134 systems are generic in all cars in their respective systems, but not interchangeable between R-12 and R-134. You see this played out in the converter kits, when switching from R-12 to R-134. One kit fits all in terms of modifying the ports to accept the larger R-134 hose connector.

I had a 91 Leggie that my wife drove. One day, the radiator sprung a leak, so I replaced the radiator. A couple of weeks later, it started over heating after about a 5 minute drive. It turned out to be a bad HG on the 2.2 motor. So, yes 2.2 motors blow head gaskets. I don't know if the leaky radiator caused the over heating problem, or a bad HG caused the over heating problem, and the added coolant pressure caused the radiator to leak. If you can't find any radiator leakage anywhere under the hood, then it is a good assumption that a bad HG is causing the coolant to exit out the tail pipe. You may want to look for added wetness or water (coolant) coming out the tail pipe. I gotta think you have burped any air bubble out of the cooling system by now.

I am with you, $2,500 is absurd for the package. Way over priced in my opinion. I like the wheels you have picked out!

+1 I am thinking no damage to the tires, sensors prolly okay too. Fill tires to proper pressure, and see if sensor works okay, and if drives okay.

You may want to check out the fuel system. Who knows what crap may have been added to the gas tank. To have opened the hood to add sand, would have required getting inside the car to pull the hood release. At the same time, the gas tank flap could have been released. It doesn't require much imagination to think that someone could have tainted the fuel as well. So, I would replace the fuel filter just to be on the safe side. Considering all the work at hand, it may be worthwhile to swap in a 2.2 motor.

I would try a can of injector cleaner added to the gas tank. Buy the good stuff, TC-3, Techron, or equiv that costs about $6 to $7.00/can. Don't bother with the cheap stuff, none of that works well.

The ATF dip stick only takes about a pint of fluid to read from the low mark to the high mark. So, it is really easy to over fill.

another +1 for the GR-2 struts. I have installed them on several different vehicles, and have always been pleased with the performance at a good price.

Replace wires and plugs, since you have a known #3 cylinder misfire. I have a hunch this may fix your problem. Drop us a note, if this fixes, or doesn't fix the problem.

As someone else replied to this thread, there are 2 bolts that affix the starter to the engine block. The bottom long bolt can only be worked on by touch/feel, and can't be seen. Still not a big deal. I jam a rag or paper towel under the nut, so if dropped, it won't fall down deep into the engine bay and be difficult to retrieve. Removing bolts does require a hand wrench to hold the nut, while using a drive to loosen the bolt. For my time and money, I would buy a rebuilt from a parts store, and not waste time waiting to have the old one rebuilt. Rebuilts for me have always lasted a long time, and have a lifetime guarantee.

I was in a wrecking yard here in Indy. The yard has several Subarus, one of which had nearly new tires on alloy rims. Pretty sure it was a 96 OBW with 15" stock alloy wheels. Yard wanted $200 for tires and wheels. Prolly still there. If interested, I will get you contact info. Larry....Rooster2

No, I haven't, but should. I live in Indy, so it is only about an hour up the road to Lafayette, In to the Subie plant. The plant can be seen sitting off the west side of I-65, with a three car display on the side of the Interstate. Tours do require a reservation. I don't know how much in advance a reservation needs to be made, but I think reservations can be made at their website. A tour is on my "to do" list. Gotta get there this summer.

If it were me, I would replace the T-belt, fix the key, prolly plug wires and plugs (if needed) and sell it. That should not cost much. Maybe the bad T-belt has jumped a tooth or two to give you poor performance and poor gas mileage. You would be $$ ahead, and could apply that money towards a better Leggie Wagon.

You would want 2 WD, should you ever have a flat tire, and need to use the spare tire. Any amp size fuse can be used. The space saver tire always gets put on the back, even if your flat is in the front. This is all done because your Subaru is AWD, and must have 4 tires of the same size, when driven in All Wheel Drive. Failure to follow instructions, can damage the AWD. What I do, is carry a can of Fix a Flat tire inflator to air up a tire that is going down, then drive pronto to a tire shop to get the flat tire repaired to avoid using the spare, and two wheel drive. NEVER have your Subaru towed with any wheels on the ground. Always have it "flat bedded" carried away, if can't be driven, and must be moved.

hmmm........look good in my 99 OBW. Is $450 about what they usually cost?

If you use jack stands, be sure to apply the hand brake first, and use wheel chocks. I learned the hard way that otherwise the car can fall off a jack stand. Luckily, I was not under the car to get hurt. If you have the drive up hard plastic ramps, I would use those on the rear, or use four if you can borrow them from a friend. I have found they work great for getting under the car. I feel safer under them, verses jack stands. I have used grease or antisieze on pipes to help them to slide together easily, if not using flange mounts.

As already written, there are serious electrical problems to over come that turn this into a nasty swap. Much electrical engine management systems was changed between 95 to 00 models. You could be stepping into a nightmare. You don't mention how many miles/km on existing 2000 motor, if less than 150K, then would elect to repair the 2000 motor. Head gasket problem on Gen 2 2000 model is not as serious an issue, as with the Gen 1 featured during 1996 to 1999. Since motor does not run, you should be able to buy this car on the cheap!

Took a test drive in a new 2010 OBW that I am interested in buying. They are really nice cars. Is there much ability to negotiate on new car prices or cost down these days? If so, how much? Anyone bought a 2010 that can tell their negotiation story? No trade in, I will keep my old car. Sorry if this is the wrong USMB forum to ask this question, but after looking around, I couldn't find any USMB forum that looked better suited to ask this question.

Glad to hear that a second treatment of Trans-X is solving the delay problem again. I prolly need to do the same thing. After two years on Trans-X, my trany is starting to get just a little bit lazy again in shifting from R to D. Best regards, Larry (Rooster2)

Engine starting problem and AT oil light problem are two separate problems. I suspect changing spark plugs and plug wires would be a good place to start. Pulling codes is really helpful too.

Nothing special on Subie brakes. Hope all goes well.