Rooster2

+1 I am thinking no damage to the tires, sensors prolly okay too. Fill tires to proper pressure, and see if sensor works okay, and if drives okay.

You may want to check out the fuel system. Who knows what crap may have been added to the gas tank. To have opened the hood to add sand, would have required getting inside the car to pull the hood release. At the same time, the gas tank flap could have been released. It doesn't require much imagination to think that someone could have tainted the fuel as well. So, I would replace the fuel filter just to be on the safe side. Considering all the work at hand, it may be worthwhile to swap in a 2.2 motor.

I would try a can of injector cleaner added to the gas tank. Buy the good stuff, TC-3, Techron, or equiv that costs about $6 to $7.00/can. Don't bother with the cheap stuff, none of that works well.

The ATF dip stick only takes about a pint of fluid to read from the low mark to the high mark. So, it is really easy to over fill.

another +1 for the GR-2 struts. I have installed them on several different vehicles, and have always been pleased with the performance at a good price.

Replace wires and plugs, since you have a known #3 cylinder misfire. I have a hunch this may fix your problem. Drop us a note, if this fixes, or doesn't fix the problem.

As someone else replied to this thread, there are 2 bolts that affix the starter to the engine block. The bottom long bolt can only be worked on by touch/feel, and can't be seen. Still not a big deal. I jam a rag or paper towel under the nut, so if dropped, it won't fall down deep into the engine bay and be difficult to retrieve. Removing bolts does require a hand wrench to hold the nut, while using a drive to loosen the bolt. For my time and money, I would buy a rebuilt from a parts store, and not waste time waiting to have the old one rebuilt. Rebuilts for me have always lasted a long time, and have a lifetime guarantee.

I was in a wrecking yard here in Indy. The yard has several Subarus, one of which had nearly new tires on alloy rims. Pretty sure it was a 96 OBW with 15" stock alloy wheels. Yard wanted $200 for tires and wheels. Prolly still there. If interested, I will get you contact info. Larry....Rooster2

No, I haven't, but should. I live in Indy, so it is only about an hour up the road to Lafayette, In to the Subie plant. The plant can be seen sitting off the west side of I-65, with a three car display on the side of the Interstate. Tours do require a reservation. I don't know how much in advance a reservation needs to be made, but I think reservations can be made at their website. A tour is on my "to do" list. Gotta get there this summer.

If it were me, I would replace the T-belt, fix the key, prolly plug wires and plugs (if needed) and sell it. That should not cost much. Maybe the bad T-belt has jumped a tooth or two to give you poor performance and poor gas mileage. You would be $$ ahead, and could apply that money towards a better Leggie Wagon.

You would want 2 WD, should you ever have a flat tire, and need to use the spare tire. Any amp size fuse can be used. The space saver tire always gets put on the back, even if your flat is in the front. This is all done because your Subaru is AWD, and must have 4 tires of the same size, when driven in All Wheel Drive. Failure to follow instructions, can damage the AWD. What I do, is carry a can of Fix a Flat tire inflator to air up a tire that is going down, then drive pronto to a tire shop to get the flat tire repaired to avoid using the spare, and two wheel drive. NEVER have your Subaru towed with any wheels on the ground. Always have it "flat bedded" carried away, if can't be driven, and must be moved.

hmmm........look good in my 99 OBW. Is $450 about what they usually cost?

If you use jack stands, be sure to apply the hand brake first, and use wheel chocks. I learned the hard way that otherwise the car can fall off a jack stand. Luckily, I was not under the car to get hurt. If you have the drive up hard plastic ramps, I would use those on the rear, or use four if you can borrow them from a friend. I have found they work great for getting under the car. I feel safer under them, verses jack stands. I have used grease or antisieze on pipes to help them to slide together easily, if not using flange mounts.

As already written, there are serious electrical problems to over come that turn this into a nasty swap. Much electrical engine management systems was changed between 95 to 00 models. You could be stepping into a nightmare. You don't mention how many miles/km on existing 2000 motor, if less than 150K, then would elect to repair the 2000 motor. Head gasket problem on Gen 2 2000 model is not as serious an issue, as with the Gen 1 featured during 1996 to 1999. Since motor does not run, you should be able to buy this car on the cheap!

Took a test drive in a new 2010 OBW that I am interested in buying. They are really nice cars. Is there much ability to negotiate on new car prices or cost down these days? If so, how much? Anyone bought a 2010 that can tell their negotiation story? No trade in, I will keep my old car. Sorry if this is the wrong USMB forum to ask this question, but after looking around, I couldn't find any USMB forum that looked better suited to ask this question.

Glad to hear that a second treatment of Trans-X is solving the delay problem again. I prolly need to do the same thing. After two years on Trans-X, my trany is starting to get just a little bit lazy again in shifting from R to D. Best regards, Larry (Rooster2)

Engine starting problem and AT oil light problem are two separate problems. I suspect changing spark plugs and plug wires would be a good place to start. Pulling codes is really helpful too.

Nothing special on Subie brakes. Hope all goes well.

Don't know specific to Subaru, but some auto A/C systems are designed so the compressor won't activate when outside temperature is below 55 degrees.

check alternator belt and A/C belt for looseness. If cheap belts were installed, they will stretch and squeal.

I had same problem with my Legacy. I thought the fan motor was bad, but upon replacing the unit, it turned out that the blower unit was full of tree leaves and crud. Cleaning out the mess fixed the problem. It is easy to access the fan motor. Simply remove the glove box, and the unit sits there right in front of the firewall. Use simple hand tools to remove, and clean out. I am fairly confident this is your problem, particularly if you leave your car outside, and park under trees.

I once had a conversation with a guy who used dino oil, and never ever changed his oil. He said, that all he would do is change the filter every 3-4K miles, and add oil when low. I thought, and still think, the guy was nuts to leave all that cruddy and sludgy oil in the engine. He said something that "oil never wears out, so why replace it." With that "know it all" attitude, I never even bothered to try to convince him of the advantage of changing oil. I have no idea how long his engines lasted under this crazy care, but I know for sure that I would never buy a car from him, that he had driven for a while.

built in!

Maybe I have just been lucky, but I have had no problem with Autozone rebuilt alternators. I am running one on my wife's car, and after three years, it is still going strong. Since your first one was bad from them, I would have had them put their second one that they sold you on their in store testing machine to verify amp output before installation on your car. Suggest rechecking your wiring. The odds of buying three bad alternators in a row suggest a wiring problem. Check your wiring again for damage or poor connections.

Is this a car that you can learn any history on? How long was it left in high water? Anyone attempt to dry it out immediately after being flooded? Was the oil and trany fluid changed after the high water? Does the car run and drive now? Any known electrical function caused by the water, that don't operate now? Does the car interior smell of mold and mildew?