Rooster2

Guy, In my opinion, after thinking about all that you have done to improve the performance of your ailing transmission, I am thinking it would it be better to replace the transmission with a good used one from a wrecking yard. Even if you replaced the torque converter, the transmission has led a hard life, and still may have additional problems.

I read somewhere that all new Leggie wagons are only Outbacks models.

I had a 91 Leggie with the 2.2 that blew the head gasket, so it can and does happen. I had a about 175K miles on the odo, so I swapped in another 2.2.

No, use engine mounts to affix to engine stand, not in the transmission area. New to piston world??? You must be a jet engine or Wankel motor guy??? Welcome to the piston world!! People glad to help you on this forum.

If tightening the bolts doesn't fix the starter, then prolly best to replace the starter. Otherwise, there is no relationship between clutch and starter. Maybe starter is in need of replacing anyway.

Pretty obvious that the owner is a deceptive jackass, and nothing that he says or represents on his car is believeable. Best to stay away from anything he sells now or in the future.

My 98 OBW Limited doesn't have the sun roof. Lots of other Limiteds don't have the sun roof either. So don't feel left out, prolly some additional option.

Recommend not changing the trans filter. It is just a fine mesh screen wire, and when I changed mine, there wasn't any grit or dirt trapped by the wire mesh. So, it was a waste of time. The problem is removing all of the old trans pan gasket before replacing the pan. It is just way too easy to start a leaky pan, even when using a new gasket, which is what happened on my 91 Leggie. IMO, you are far better off changing the trans fluid about three times to get clean fluid, as draining the fluid still leaves about half in the system that won't drain out. Others here have said the same as my advise. Search this forum for past posts on this post.

In this situation, prolly best to call several yards to see if they have any Subaru CD changers in stock. No use going there, if there is none to be had.

Sounds like a good score for $8K. Please post some pixs here, so we all can take a look.

I think CDs are best retrieved by dismantling the changer. No amount of poking in the CD slot will help; prolly only damage the CDs. As already suggested, best to replace then repair. Car stereo gear is not really made to be repaired. You might get lucky at a wrecking yard for a used unit, or check after market for a new one. Replacing with a new unit OEM from a dealer, will be more expensive then after market.

I think at time of creating a title and registration at the license bureau, the clerk has asked me what model my car was, and my answer became what was printed on the title. I gotta think that is what has happened here. I have a 98 OBW Limited, and a 99 OBW standard edition. No question about it, the car pictured is precisely the standard version. Way over priced in my opinion.

I agree about there not being a need to check oil pressure. If motor runs quiet, and the dash board oil pressure is not lit, then don't worry about low oil pressure. Most important thing, is how does it drive? Any strange noises? anything not right? Brakes seem good? Look under front of car to see if the half shaft boots are in tact. The 94 Model has the 2.2 almost bullet proof motor that is prolly good for 300K miles if it has been treated right. If all is well, the car is a good buy for the money.

Maybe easier to rewire cruise control hot wire to another power source. Look around for a hot wire not in use for a car option you don't have, for example like heated seats. Connect to that open lead.

I live "down the road," in Indy, so a few times a year I drive buy on the Interstate and can see the plant off in the distance. It looks like a warehouse, with no smoke stacks, and no activity going on outside the building that I can see. I have heard that plant tours are available upon making a reservation. I want to do that some day. I am sure it would be very interesting seeing Subies assembled.

I have never done Leggie doors, only VW Jetta doors. I just wanted to comment that doors are heavy. Yea, you can pick up one and carry it away, but must weigh about 75 pounds each, and is an awkward shape to maneuver and carry. It is best to have a helper when doing a door R & R, especially on installation, when the door has to be aligned just perfect to get the hinge bolt holes to line up.

Thanks Nipper for the educational link. Upon reading, sounds like reduced emissions results from using a more efficient cat converter, and upgraded ecu. Cost to owner is $200 added to price of new car.

Saw this badge tonight with wording " Partial Zero Emission Vehicle" on the lift gate of a Leggie OBW that was prolly a year or two old. I have never seen this badge before, and wonder what it means, and what mods Subaru did to create this vehicle. Anyone know the answer?

I agree with you that rapid bulb flashing indicates a bad bulb, or sometimes the bulb is not bad, but not making good contact in the bulb socket. Also, could be that the bulb filament is bad, but sometimes makes connection to light properly. Figure out which bulb is acting up, then replace the bulb, and see if that fixes the problem. If you can't figure out if it is front or back bulb, then replace both bulbs. When doing so, look closely at the bulb socket(s) and wiring for any corrosion or loose wiring. I would give it a high probability that changing a bulb will fix your problem!

Can you better describe "front end noise?" Is it suspension noise, steering noise, or engine noise?

I had a 91 that it too had the crankshaft pulley bolt come loose and damage the key. It looked really chewed up, but was repairable by a shop. Suggest doing a search on this forum. There is quite a bit previously written about this problem, and how to fix it.

Yea, IMO, the Haynes manual is light on exact "how to" info. Just kind of gives you generic basics. I am not aware that Bentley makes a Subaru shop manual. If so, it will be technically good, but terribly nerdy in descriptions. At least that is my opinion on a Bentley for my 87 Audi 5000. This forum provides excellent technical information on Subaru maintenance and repairs. One very nice thing about Subarus is that they are very reliable, very well constructed, and using quality materials. The motor is easy to work on, with the exception of spark plug replacement. Enjoy your new Outback!

95-99 would work for sure. I have my doubts on 91 & 92, different body style, and prolly different electrical connectors. If you snag one from a Pick-n-Pull, I would suggest trying out the new unit in the parking lot, before driving away. That way, you will know for sure that the new unit works. If not, you are still at the Pick-n-Pull with the quick ability to pull another unit. Check to make sure your radio fuse is good before installing a new radio.

Last October, someone posted the Toyota FT-86 concept car by Toyota with a Subaru motor. See http://www.nextautos.com/tokyo-previ...src=Nextscreen Toyota owns 20% of Subaru, so there is the motor connection. Is this what you have in mind for Subaru to make?

IMO, bondo would not be a good gluing product. It just won't adhere well under any circumstances. The only thing that it will really adhere to a car is paint. Also, bondo won't "set up," to dry or harden unless the temp is in the 70's. I guess you could try it for temporary use. If so, use a hair dryer to heat and dry the bondo. I think you would be better off using some good glue, or even a trim adhesive that would be designed for that purpose.