Rooster2

If replacing the thermostat and rad cap don't fix the problem, then I would suspect a bad head gasket. A bad HG doesn't usually occur on a 2.2 motor like yours, but it can and does happen. I had a 91 Leggie with the 2.2 that developed a bad HG, so I have seen it happen.

Could well be a bad cell in the battery. I had that once. Car would start, but gauges gave crazy read outs, and warning lights kept going off, and the car ran poorly. All because of low battery voltage. Alternator should have an output of 14V, not a paltry 12.6V. Suggest getting both alternator and battery checked out. Maybe find a smarter guy at AZ, who knows that a12.6V read out is not good.

Please report back on what you bought, what size, and how happy you are with the performance of the new tires.

I have an Outback that does that, but I am not concerned about it. I don't think it is valves or bearing knock, prolly most likely some "piston slap," which doesn't cause problems.

At a U Pull yard, I would be inclined to pull a motor from a car that has been wrecked on the sides or rear, but not the front. To have been in a wreck, is a good, but not positive, indicator that the motor was running at the time of the accident.

I am thinking that the Bosch Plats are not gap-able. They are just plug and play, never need gaping.

I bet if you swung that wire down toward the trany, and moved it about the length of the wire, you will be able to see where it was connected to the trany. Prolly best to reconnect it. There's electronics inside the A/T that needs a good ground.

I know I am a heretic here for not saying to use NGK plugs only. I installed Bosch Platinum, their cheapest ones with a single anode, about two years ago in my 99 OBW, and they continue to perform just fine after 25K miles of driving. Cost was maybe $2-3/each per plug. The nasty part is ahead of you, when it come time to install the plugs. Search this forum for plug installation for details.

My vote is to do an engine swap. Running good 2.2 motors can be had for about $200 as someone else said. Your rebuild time and parts will cost more than $200.

When I changed plugs in my 99 OBW, it took me a good three hours of cussing, when adding and subtracting extensions, using a wobbler, and finger tip loosening, and tightening the plugs to get the job done. Nastiest plug change that I have ever done. Just no room to do work. Wish Subaru had cut nice access holes in the inside fender wells to give access. It would make the job a lot easier.

IMO, I would buy the 195 vs 185 size tire. For a couple of bucks more per tire, they handle better, ride better, with negligible spedo difference. I have had good performance with Kuhmo Solice 721 tire. Sell for a reasonable price too.

Have you checked the brake fluid level in the reservoir? I think if fluid level is low, it will activate brake warning light.

I had a buzzy relay on a VW some time back. The relay still seemed to work, but I replaced it anyway. I figured it was cheap insurance to replace before it caused trouble.

Suggest you read previous posts on this USMB regarding "torque bind." A search here will yield a lot on technically what causes it, and how to fix. It doesn't seem like something cheap and ez to fix.

I have had Trans-X in my car for about 2 years now, so if the product would cause a problem, I think it would have done so by now. Someone on this forum tore down their trany after using Trans-X, and could not find any deterioration of internal seals, so I am thinking Trans-X is a safe product to use.

Bad axles result from torn boots that allows dirt to enter the CV joints. Check for torn rubber boots at each end of the half shafts (axles) by looking under the car. It is difficult to do this without raising the front end to get a good look at the half shafts. Suggest this being done at a repair garage, where the car can be put up on a lift, or it can be done driving the front up on small portable ramps. Is this car 2 wheel drive or all wheel drive? Torque bind is only an all wheel drive problem. It can be diagnosed, when driving, if the steering seems to bind up on turns, thus the name torque bind. Most I would pay would be $500, or $495 if owner lets you keep the $5 bill resting in the cubby hole in front of the shifter.

Agree with others, it is really a tire problem. Using snow tires, or better yet, studded snow tires, do a lot to reduce tire spin in really slick conditions. The "tallness" of Subie Outbacks and SUVs make the vehicles more top heavy then earlier Subies, which were passenger cars, also makes for trickier handling.

There is a fuse for cig lighter and some other functions on the same wiring, so you may want to check to see if that fuse is good. However, I had a situation where fuse was good, but lighter socket had no power. What causes this, is that there is a fuse link built into the lighter socket, that can blow without blowing the fuse at the fuse block. This turned out to be my problem. To repair, I disassembled the lighter socket, and bent the metal clips together to by-pass around the bad fuse link to restore electrical power. IMO, the lighter socket design is not good, and a real PITA to repair.

Agree with you.........just too many miles on existing trany to consider repairing. A good used trany is the way I would go.

You may want to try repairing with JB Weld epoxy. Available at most auto parts stores. Just be sure to super clean the area where the leak is. I have had really good luck with that product. Cost is about $5.00

Suggest going to a hardware store, and buying one each of all the nuts that have been suggested. The cost is cheap. In that mix, you should find one that fits. Also, for what it is worth, when replacing that bottom nut, I jam a rag or shop towel under the starter to catch the nut should I drop it. Good luck on getting this project finished.

It is difficult to see much detail in the picture. Where under the car was this picture taken? I may be mistaken, but it appears to be a shroud on an exhaust pipe. If so, I doubt that it is gas dripping there.

You refer to the "pipe above the trany pan," I think that is the tube that the transmission dip stick fits into to measure ATF level. No, the trany fluid does not fill up to the level of the tube, so nothing will flow out. However, there is no reason to remove the tube. The transmission fluid is not cooled by antifreeze. Coolant and ATF flow through the radiator using separate lines. On the inside of the radiator (facing toward the engine) the transmission lines are screwed into the radiator. You will see one line at the top of the radiator, the other line near the bottom of the radiator. There is no need to remove either line, when replacing the trany pan. Be very careful in replacing those pan bolts. The bolts can break (sheer off) very easily with minimum effort. Be sure that you know how to operate your torque wrench correctly. Someone, here on this forum, accidentally sheered off several bolts, when re-torquing the bolts with a cheap torque wrench. So be very careful when tightening, and good luck to you.

Guess I am confused..........isn't the shoe suppose to rub when the pedal is applied? The "star" wheel, is where tightness is adjusted. E-brake cable rusts inside the tubular housing is what I have observed as the reason the e-brake freezes. I replaced the cable on a VW some time back with brake shoes, it was difficult job requiring a lot of cussing during the process of hooking up the cable. It required a lot of cable stretching, but it can be done as a one man job.

By smoking, do you mean "out the tail pipe," or oil leakage that burns off after dripping on the exhaust system? Either way, I disagree that it is caused by Walmart oil. Smoking out the tail pipe is a sign of a high millage car with worn piston rings, and oil leakage is a sign of leaking seals. IMO, Walmart oil will cause neither. I use Walmart oil: 20w X 50w in the summer, 10w X 30w in the winter with no issues.