Rooster2
Members-
Posts
4817 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
11
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by Rooster2
-
Yea, when I did mine, I didn't cuss so much, as spend a lot of time figuring out which drive extension, or no extension, or swivel use, and which angle to approach with a drive or breaker bar. It was summer when I did mine, two plugs one night, two plugs the next night. Prolly put 3 hours + into the project. It was the most difficult plug swap I have ever done. Suggest using antisieze on the plug threads, and dialectic jelly on the plug wires at the plugs. Will make it easier to change plugs in the future, if I ever need to do so. I gave some thought to loosening up the motor mounts, then jacking up one side of the engine to gain work access, but never tried that, but maybe that would work.
-
Yes, I am running an Autozone Duralast alternator without problems. It is a rebuilt alternator, so only as good as the rebuilder. Keep your receipt. A life time guarantee comes with their alternator, and Autozone will swap it out for another rebuilt unit, no questions asked. At $153, their alternator isn't cheap, but a lot less money then one from a Subaru stealership, without a life time guarantee.
-
For what it is worth, others have made trips with known bad head gasket, by simply loosening the vent screw on top of radiator at opposite end from rad cap. Loosening the screw vents exhaust gas in cooling system, allowing the gas to escape in the air. This prevents the cooling system from pressurizing properly, but it will help keep the engine from over heating.
-
I have had this exact problem before. I used a screw driver with the best fitting philips bit I could find, then attached vice grips to the screw driver shaft. I pushed in on the screw driver as hard as I could, then used the vice grips to rotate the screw driver blade. It worked. Why weren't bolts used to secure the door mirrors at the factory? Philips heads were a bad idea!
-
Agree with Strat. Doesn't sound like you have much or any money invested in this car. Take a shot at drilling out the busted stud. Use the highest quality drill bits you can find. Someone suggested a helicoil, I tried that once with poor results, but maybe that was just my poor work. Sounds like a good cleaning, and a better seat from a wrecking yard will round out your wish list.
-
It gets way more complicated then your answer from FedEX, even though Guy's town approves income shipments of hazardous substances. Because Trans-X has a flash point of combustion of 61 degrees F, as declared by CRC, the mfger of Trans-X, a certified trained hazardous packaging company is required to prepare the product for shipment, plus legal documentation to accompany the shipment. Cost prolly approaching $150-$200. Time, effort, and money make this project impossible. Additionally, since the product is not sold in Europe, it is not environmentally legally approved to enter Belgium, it stands a good chance of being confiscated. It is just layer after layer of road blocks that makes it impossible to ship the product to Belgium. As you can tell, I worked hard to learn if I could ship Trans-X to Guy. Larry (Rooster2)
-
It is really important to remove all remnants of old pan sealant with a wire brush. Any remnants left on any surface will cause a leak upon reassembly. I learned this lesson the hard way. It is very helpful to get the car up off the ground to do the pan work. Otherwise, there is just minimum ground clearance to do the work. I use plastic drive up ramps to raise the front of my car off the ground. The ramps work great.