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Rooster2
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no heat
Rooster2 replied to derby's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Prolly a good idea to flush out the cooling system, then install a new thermostat, along with a new radiator cap, and fresh antifreeze. -
The 2000 Legacy with automatic transmission may develop a condition where it is reluctant to shift into forward gear when moving the gear shifter from R to D. It seems only to affect the 1999 and 2000 models. Suggest reading through the thread..........."FIXED A/T delayed forward engagement," to get a better understanding of the problem, and how it can be fixed using Trans-X additive to the A/T fluid.
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Others like to complain about Autozone parts, but I don't. I installed their rotors and pads on my 98 OBW last summer with no complaints. Pads install the same with or without ABS, as others have said. You will need to a "screw down clamp," (for the life of me, I can't think of the precise name) to retract the double pistons before fitting the new pads. You are prolly already aware of this. I use a cardboard box to rest the caliber upon after removal, instead of letting it hang by the rubber brake line. If the caliper bolts are really frozen on tight, use a lot of PB Blaster or penetrating oil, and maybe heat up the bolt head with a torch to get it to break loose. I broke the head off a caliber bolt doing my rotor job, because I didn't follow my own advise.........then the fun began.
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how much difference in performance from a 2.2l to a 2.5l is there? Having owned both and driven as daily drivers, there is not much HP advantage in the 2.5 over the 2.2. The 2.2 is not a slug. You won't miss the tiny HP advantage of the 2.5. I would not hesitate to do the swap, if my current 2.5 bit the dust.
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I have also heard of running with a bad head gasket by loosening the vent screw/bolt at the top corner of the radiator on the opposite side from the radiator cap. This helps vent out exhaust gas that is entering the cooling system via the bad head gasket. A very tiny amount of coolant will escape from the cooling system, and the cooling system won't pressurize, but it will help your motor from over heating.
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Oil level prolly okay. Checking oil when parked on a slant, give a false reading. Does the engine run long enough to be able to pull codes? Check all your wiring to verify everything is hooked up properly, same goes for all vacuum connections. Doubt that alternator is source of your problem. The white smoke thing is prolly associated with your problem, but I am not knowledgeable enough to know the answer.
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You mentioned buying gas at a shady gas station, that could be the source of the problem, particularly if you have had some rainy weather lately. It is easy for a shady place to have bad gas resulting from run off rain water getting past worn out seals on the top of the station's under ground gas tank. Years ago, a cheapie station in my town had this trouble. It resulted in stalled, or nearly stalled cars all over town. Suggest you try adding a can or two of "dry gas" to your gas tank in case this is your problem.
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I would be surprised if Toyota sells this car with a Subie motor. The cost of providing Subie replacement engine parts, and Subie mechanic training through out their entire dealer network for this one car only would be stupendous, and cost prohibitive. The car has killer good looks, that I think would sell well. If it is ever marketed, I think the logical choice is to see an established Camry or Corolla drive train under the hood.
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In draining your oil, you mentioned that the viscosity was light, so it drained out like water. By chance did you smell the drained oil? Did it smell like gasoline? If so, then you may have a stuck injector, that is allowing gasoline to drain down into the oil pan. However, this situation would have caused a miss fire, and your check engine light to be on. Didn't see any mention of that in your post. As advised, just keep an eye on the oil level to head off trouble before it arrives.