Rooster2

Using first gear, as a gear down to slow down on declining steep grade sounds a bit too much to ask the tranny and engine to do. Second gear with some braking is what I would do.

The gauge on a do-it-yourself can with a hose, and small gauge is often very inaccurate. I have often see the gauge show that pressure is in the blue zone on the gauge, but still find the system is low on refrigerant. If system turns on the compressor more like every 5-10 seconds, then that is an indication of low refrigerant in the system. If you sense something like that, then add just half a can of refrigerant. Then see how that makes the system work. I have also seen where the A/C works well when first turned on, as you are now finding, but then not putting out cool air once the system is on for a while. That too, is an indication of low refrigerant level in the system. Another reason to add a half a can to see if that improves the cold air output over extended time.

+1 on compression test.............I bet that will tell you a lot.

Having checked ATF level, and adding Trans-X with no improvement, indicates that tranny is probably shot. Having been on this forum for years, the advise often repeated under the circumstances, is to replace the tranny, usually one from a junk yard, rather than having it repaired at a tranny shop. The tranny shop will be expensive. Subaru auto trannys are well made, and don't often break, so one from a JY can usually be counted on to be good, if taken from a car that was wrecked. "Wrecked" means the car was running at the time it entered the JY, and was involved in a traffic accident, so tranny likely good, as car was being driven. 86BRATMAN's advise above gives you is an excellent starting point on what model Subaru's AT will work on your car. You can also verify that your tranny is a 99 model by looking for an external tranny filter screwed onto the front side of the tranny. It will look exactly like a screw on oil filter. This will verify that you have a phase 2, 4EAT model tranny. Earlier model years, with phase 1, 4EAT did not have the external filter.

I agree, going to a 2.0 is too great a loss of power. On my 98 OBW, I went from a 2.5 to a 2.2 with a loss of about 35 hp. The loss is significant, and sometimes uncomfortable, especially when entering an on ramp on the interstate, when you need some power to blend in with traffic. When pulling a trailer, you need all the HP you can get. Don't think you will be happy with a 2.0 motor. My experience............I have bought two motors from junk yards. Both turned out to be good engines, and continue to work well. It is best to get a motor from a car that has been wrecked. At least you know the car was being driven just before entering the JY, and the yard can tell you how many miles were on the donor car's odometer. Also, with my last motor purchase, I was given the name of a small independent shop that swaps in motors, and does a lot of swaps with motors sold by that JY. That all worked out well, as they swapped in the motor for $700.00, and did a good job. I have read stories about Japanese take out motors sent here to the U.S. Some work great, but some have been junk. They cost considerably more then a motor from a JY, so I don't think they are worth it. Truth be known, the Japanese take outs are most likely motors from Japanese JYs, so what is to be gained going this route?

The "delayed engagement" version, of which I have one, only affects forward drive gear. Reverse gear, should work just fine, even if delayed engagement is present.

I am also a bit confused by the swap. I am not sure if the engine is the right type for a 99. If you look at the top of the intake manifold, the engine type will be marked there, as EJ22 or EJ25. The easiest way is to look at the 2 cam plastic covers. Look to see if each cam cover has 1 or 2 circular indentations molded into the plastic. If 1, it is a 2.2. If it has 2, then it is the 2.5 motor. The auto tranny dip stick is located down next to the fire wall on the driver's side. It is hidden down low under the heater hoses, and difficult to see without using a flashlight. Use your hand to spread apart the heater hoses, so you can see the dip stick. See if the tranny is full of ATF. This would be the first thing I would look into.

Yes, my same experience, the bracket came with the rebuild. A good thing too, as old unit with froze slide pin, would not free up even after a ton of effort. Just made it impossible to use old caliper.

If caliper slide pins were not working properly, then there is a good chance that the pad was not retracting from the rotor, when your foot was off the brake. Result is added wear to the brake pad, and over heated rotor. If all this is true, then a frozen slide pin is your problem. I have had this happen, even though I was able to get the slide pin freed up, it froze up again about a year later. This time the slide pin was froze up solid, and could not be freed up, so I replaced the caliper. I would suggest replacing the rotor, pads, and caliper. I have bought, and used re manufactured calipers with great success. I would only replace the caliper that is the problem. No need to replace one that the slide pins still work properly. Use plenty of slyde lube on the slide pins on reassembly.

It is located at the fire wall on driver's side. The dip stick handle is hidden under hoses and cables. Using your hand, mover them out of the way, so you can reach through them. Good idea to use a flash light to look down into that dark area. Yes, I think it does have a yellow handle. My dip stick handle always seems stuck, and difficult to pull out, so don't be surprised if you have to pull hard to extract it from it's circular tube encasement.

Suggest you do a Google search, "reupholster shop," or "upholstery repair" followed by the name of the city where you live in the google search line. These shops do mainly home furniture reupholster work like couches and easy chairs. However, some do car seat repair. If a shop does not do car seats, ask for a referral. The upholster shops are generally small family owned businesses. Usually pretty easy to work with. Figure on removing the seat from your car, and dropping it off at the reupholster shop. They are not into doing the wrench work of unbolting the seat from your car.

I have a 99 OBW, seem to remember it sits low on the passenger side near the firewall. I don't remember a yellow ring. The dip stick is small, with what I remember a finger loop to pull out the stick. Stick is only about 3-4 inches long. Not anything as obvious as the oil dip stick.

Your customer is nuts to want you to warrant the motor that they brought in to you for installation. What is he thinking??? Before driving 2 hours each way, may I suggest you get on the phone, or your customer gets on the phone to get the warranty process in motion with the motor seller before ever driving there. Might make things a lot easier for everyone.

I totally agree with Grossgary's post. If you don't find metal particles as described in steps 2 and 3, then install a used compressor, and follow step 4. The only thing I might add, is if not vacuuming the system before R-134 re-install, then do this. Add about a half a can of 134 into the system, that should be enough to activate the compressor. Run for a short amount of time, then shut off the system and vent out the half can of 134 to the atmosphere at the low port schrader valve. This, I feel, helps vacate some of the atmosphere, and moisture that may have entered the system, while it was "open." I then install 2 cans of 134, and job is done. Also, while the system is open, I try to plug openings to keep moisture out of the system where ever possible. Yea, I know wantonly venting 134 to the atmosphere is red neck, but for just a half a can, I don't feel too guilty. I had to open the system on my 99 OBW about 3 years ago. After recharging as described, my system continues to pump out good cold air, so I must have done something right.

I assume the coolant level in the radiator is filled up................ A good starting point is to replace the thermostat and radiator cap. See if doing those two things fixes the problem.

Sounds like a well maintained car. I am surprised current owner put so much time and work on recent maintenance, only to put it up for sale. I think I have read that upgrade to Forester struts and springs causes no tire wear issues, but others here may know more about this. Also good to check tires for any strange wear. Owner should have had a 4 wheel alignment done. That affects tire wear as well. $3,000 is a bit high for a 96 Outback, usually sell for about $2,000. Added recent maintenance adds some extra value to the price, but not as much as owner spent recently. Drive the car in town and on the freeway to check for torque bind, and how well tranny and clutch work.

Yes, 02 sensors have a way of setting off a check engine light, then later turning off , then back on again. I just went through this with my 99 OBW. So your on/off experience with your check engine light does not surprise me. I think that a code reader should tell you more precisely what is wrong with your car. My code read out told me that my problem was only with the up stream 02 sensor, so I knew to only replace that unit. Hope this limited info helps. Update go to this website to learn about your VIN number..............http://www.vindecoderz.com/EN/Subaru

Follow up...............went to my cut, bend, weld muffler shop. They were great, removed the bad 02 sensor with a lot of effort, installed the replacement sensor that I brought along. Cost was $30, and that was a very good deal I am thinking. Advise.........for anyone having this trouble in the future, take the car to a muffler shop, not a car repair garage. If the sensor had broken off in the cat, or pulled the threads out of the cat converter, I was in the perfect shop to have a new cat installed.

Thanks for the advise. I think I have a 22MM box, which I think fits. If not, off to Advance Auto per your suggestion. Update.............bought the 02 tool from Advance Auto. It fit okay, but really need a lift to get any muscle on the breaker bar. Just could not get the old 02 sensor to break loose. Plan B is to go to my local cut, bend, weld muffler shop. With their lift, I am hoping they can get the leverage to loosen up the old 02, if not, then drop the cat down for better access. Subaru did not put the 02 sensor in a user friendly spot to work on.

99 Legacy OBW, throwing code PO130, and a check engine light........... Code reader says this is for bank 1, sensor 1, 02 sensor. So, I bought a Bosch upstream part # 13702, 02 sensor as a replacement. I asked a buddy to install it, but he ran into problems. He could only find one 02 sensor, when as I understand it there should be two 02 sensors, an up stream, and a down stream unit. To add to the confusion, he says the 02 sensor he found is tucked up under the exhaust system. Further more, he says the existing 02 sensor is smaller in size then the Bosch unit, with a longer power cord. He says that it appears the exhaust system needs to be dropped to gain access to install a new sensor.. Nothing seems to add up. I have replaced oxygen sensors in the past, and have never run into anything like this. I checked through the USMB archives with no success. Can anyone give me some advise........much appreciated............Rooster2 Update..............looked at a couple of you tube "how to" videos. Saw the up stream 02 swapped out on an 03 Leggie. Prolly same as my 99. Doesn't look like much room to get a socket in there. Where there is a will, there is a way. Saw recommended spray first with PB Blaster, then warm up exhaust system to help break old sensor loose. Once broke loose, job looks easy.

Changing oil & filter frequently is my best recommendation.I am old school, so still use dyno oil, not synthetic. I change oil about every 2-3000 miles. I don't think there is much difference in oil from various manufacturers. They are all good. I have personally used Walmart brand oil for 15 years with no problems. My 99 OBW just turned 235K miles, and does not burn oil. I always heard the adage about sticking with one brand of oil, because each manufacturer has their own set of additives, and it is best not to mess with changing the additives. However, that is old info, so don't know if that means anything anymore.

Since car sat without starting for 6 months, I am not surprised that the battery went dead. Even though not running during that time, there is always a small amount of continuous battery drain through the car electronic systems. It would have been better to have run the car a few times during that 6 month period, just to keep the battery charged, and oil circulating through the motor. If the battery went dead, and was exposed to freezing temperature, it is possible that the battery has gone bad. Frozen dead batteries don't recharge very well. Suggest you find the battery receipt, jump start the engine, and return to where you bought the battery. Someone at the store will be able to test the battery, and tell you if the battery is good or not. If it has gone bad, you will have your receipt, and should be able to get a new battery for free, or at low cost. Under the circumstances, don't think any system on your car is a source of a battery drain. In the future, if car is left for 6 months without starting, it is better to disconnect the battery cable to prevent discharging.

heard from the guy in dealership that they have a mchine that flushes the brake fluid out before they put in new fluid which i doubt if my mechanic has which is probably one thing i will get done when i go to pick up the above items. Power flushing brake fluid is no big deal. The old fashion way of bleeding out old fluid, while adding new fluid works just fine. When the color of the brake fluid flushes out to become clear in color, then you know the new fluid is fully in the brake line. This done at all four wheels assures a clean flush out of old brake fluid. Doesn't take long to do the flush the old fashion way.

Broke the belt on my 95, 2.2, same motor as yours. As porcupine 73 wrote, no engine damage. Simply replace the belt for sure, maybe the idlers, and pulleys, and you are good to go.

Glad to hear that MMO fixed the problem. You may also want to consider changing the PCV valve, and the fuel filter. Both are easy jobs. I recently did this on my Subie, and was surprised it ran so much better, with better power.