Rooster2

Last year, when I changed spark plugs in my 99 OBW, it was a bear getting the plug wires loose from the plug. Same problem as you, the plug wires were just laminated to the spark plug. I figured the plug wires were old to be that tight, so I bought a new set of plug wires. At that point, I didn't care about destroying the old plug wires for plug removal. I just ripped at them with channel locks until they either came loose, or shredded them until they pulled off. When replacing with new wires, I used the dielectric jelly (looks like Vaseline) on the ends of the spark plugs to help aid removal in the future. Read the archives here about changing spark plugs. It is not an easy job. Just no room for tools, but with patience it can be done.

Thanks guys for the comments, my OBW already has alloy wheels on it. The tires are about shot. I have the Limited model, so the cut outs on the facing of the wheel have the gold paint. I might come out ahead buying the used alloys with new tires that look less than 3 months old, then selling my gold OBW wheels. Is there any demand for the gold facing 15" wheels?

Went to a wrecking yard yesterday to view Leggies, never know what is available. So, I spot this 96 OBW with OEM alloys with near new Hankook 205 X70X15 tires on the rims. The yard wants $200 for the 4 wheels and 4 tires? Is that a reasonable figure? Don't know anything about Hankook tires, to know if this Korean tire is good or not. Appreciate any advise. Thanks!

There are two OEM manufacturers of starters for Subies. I am not positive, but I think one is Nippon Denso, the other Mitsubishi. They are somewhat different from each other in design, but are interchangeable when it comes time to replace a starter. I replaced a starter on my 98 a couple of years back. The replacement works just fine. However, it is from a different manufacturer then what was on the car. It is much quieter then the one I took off the car, and my wife kept worrying that because it is so quiet, that it wasn't working properly. However, not the case. It starts the car every time, just quietly so.

By chance did you replace the O2 sensor with a generic type, whereby you splice wires new O2 wires onto the existing wiring of the original O2 sensor? If so, when I have done this, the wire splice never seems to last long, resulting in a new O2 code. Finally, I gave up on generic O2 sensors, and only install a sensor specifically made for that model car. No more splicing, no more sensor trouble.

Suggest replacing the PCV valve. It is an easy and inexpensive swap out. A new one can help get more mpg. Do you have a check engine light that"s on? Pull the codes if so. The codes would tell you if you need a new 02 sensor. Regarding the back brakes.......I assume they are disk brakes? If so, spray with penetrating oil or PB blaster, then wait several hours before trying to wrench off. If bolts still won't break loose, then heat with a propane torch. Good Luck, nice buy! I am nosy.......how much did you give for it?

Happy to help! Actually, it was a sales guy at Auto Zone who recommended the Trans-X. Not that he knew that the product helped Subie trany problems specifically, but he said he had heard good reports from customers applying the product in a wide range of different cars. Rooster2

Regardless where you purchase, you have chosen well to buy KYB shocks/struts. They are my first choice. KYBs have always performed well for me, plus they are reasonably priced.

I don't think "the bump cover" will come off. They are well attached to the car. The actual bumper is a metal beam bar behind the bumper cover. Yank on it if you like to see if there is any looseness where attached. I bet there is minimal looseness. I am pretty much like you, if a car is older, a cosmetic dent or ding doesn't bother me. They become character lines to the car. If it were me, I would ask for $200 to $300 from the guilty party for damaging your car. That is giving the offender a break. At a body shop, figure repair cost of $1,000 or more. I would prolly just pocket the money, and drive the car as is.

If no one knows for certain, take a tape measure and measure the distance between floor mounting bolts on OB seat (both north/south, and east/west) and pattern on the floor of the Forester. If the same, you have a fit.

If Trans-X is going to fix your delayed forward engagement, you will know after driving the car for only 10 minutes. Please drop a reply note on this thread telling us your experience using Trans-X. I hope the product works well for you.

Same thing happened to me, it was a bad alternator. EZ to replace yourself.

I once owned a 91 Leggie wagon, so I can envision what you are saying. I don't think the aluminum window molding strip can be removed without damaging it. Then it would be difficult to find a good replacement strip. I can tell that you want to do a good job on rust repair and further rust prevention, but in this instance, I think you would be better off leaving the molding strip on, and painting up to where the molding meets the sheet metal. It may help to spray some rust preventive up and under the molding as best you can. I hope this advise helps.

Car got home just fine, then worse than ever.........Suggest going back to the same mechanic, tell him that the problem has returned. Ask to have the codes pulled again to see what they say. Maybe the replacement knock sensor isn't any good? Pulling the codes should tell you what needs to get fixed.

My same thoughts, the problem is with the contacts in the switch. Spray the contacts or replace the individual switch should fix the problem.

As touchy as the EPA is about auto emissions, you will be hard pressed to find a shop that will modify the emissions equipment on your car. If caught doing so by state inspectors, a huge fine can be slapped on a shop equipping modifying an exhaust system so that it is not pure OEM stock. The only way around this, is to do the work yourself.

I have used an old time oil additive product by the name of Rislone to remove the clatter in old American iron V-8s. Worked really well. With 205K miles on your odo, I wouldn't recommend a tear down on an engine with that many miles. If it were me, I would drive it "as is" until the motor dies. I know what you mean about the bad cloth seats in OB wagons. I have a 99 that wears my back side out on any trip beyond an hour's drive. Drop in a set of leather seats from a Leggie Limited model from a wrecking yard. The leather seats are so much more comfortable and supportive. My wife's 98 O BW has the leather seats. She is the lucky dog to have the better seats.

Just got my Subie back from the shop. Guys there fished out the rest of the bolt after applying torch heat. I bought a bolt from Ace hardware, and took it with me to the shop. For $68, I feel blessed to get out of this mess for that amount of money.

I have a 98 Subie OBW that needed a front brake job. It needed rotors and pads. The brake job went bad when I sheared off the lower bolt head that attaches the caliper bracket to the spindle assembly. I guess after 11 years, the bolt is really rusted on. I reassembled, and drove the car to my mechanic's shop. I am hopes my mechanic will be able to drill out the remaining portion of the bolt. If he isn't able to do that, is my only option to go to a wrecking yard and buy a used spindle assembly? Any thoughts and advise greatly appreciated!

VW spent a lot of money with direct injection for diesel engines, plus lower sulfur content in the diesel fuel to meet emission requirements. Perhaps VW has proprietary patents on their injection system that Subaru diesel can't use to lower emissions. As soon as the US economy revives a bit, I fully expect to see rapid inflation hit the country. All that government stimulus money that is being thrown around, and mounting national debt will cause foreign countries to not want our currency, therefore inflation. Expect to see gas prices at the pump over $3.00 soon, with $4.00 pricing not unexpected. The next ten years of auto production is going to be very interesting. What will cars be powered by, as alternatives to petroleum become economically feasible?

I developed the same problem recently on my 98 OBW. I figure the bulb burned out, but I bet it is a pita to replace. Since my AC still works, I am just letting it be.

It may not be possible to seal rear air struts, because of a torque leak. I am thinking the 2" lift is more then the air struts were designed to handle. IMO, it is better to replace the air struts with regular struts.

My guess is that your latch handle is rusted. I had this problem, kept lubing and lubing it with various stuff, but the lube wouldn't last long. It would eventually bind up again. About a month ago, I replaced the latch handle to permanently fix the problem. A new latch handle cost about $35 on line. It is an easy self install.

I have a 99 Leggie OBW. I am the second owner. By the time I bought it, there were no head rests for the back seat. Don't know if 2000 head rests will fit a 99. Seems to me my Leggie has seat cushion holes for only 2 head rests. I will have to look.

I am with you. I buy Subies as dependable transportation. I would not want to be the guinea pig operating the latest CVT. I think I would want to wait about 3 years to hear how well they hold up in the real world before buying one.