Rooster2

Good thought, I will try that. Thanks...........Larry (Rooster2)

I have a 99 OBW. I use the cig lighter socket to power a small air pump. It is great for keeping tires pumped up to correct pressure. Last time I used it, I over heated the air pump motor in pumping up a very low tire, and blew the fuse in the cig lighter socket. The fuse panel down on driver's side foot well indicates which fuse is for the cig lighter, however, I checked that fuse, and it is not blown. I checked a bunch of other fuses (particularly 20 amp) in that same fuse box, but can't find a blown fuse. Also, the fuse box label says the same fuse is used to operate both the cig lighter and power door mirror motors. The power mirrors still function, so maybe the fuse is okay. The air pump works properly when plugged into the outlet in the cargo area, so I don't think the pump is the problem. Anybody have any advise?

I am thinking that turning the rotors did not get rid of all the warpage, so it still presents the pulsating. I would suggest buying new rotors. Regarding the banging noise, sounds like a brake component could be loose. When the shop broke the bolt, was a correct size bolt used as a replacement on the caliper? Did the shop replace the bolt at all? Maybe the bolt sheared off, and the shop never bothered drilling out the rest of the bolt. Having a repair shop return your car to you with continued brake pulsating, breaking a bolt, and then the newly created banging sound doesn't speak well for the work they did on your car. Their test driving the car after working on the car, should have shown them their deficiencies. If it were me, I would be reluctant to have that shop do any more work on my car.

In my opinion, I don't think the 2.2 is that finicky about what plug is used. Any manufacturer's plug that is sold to fit the 2.2 will work okay. I have used Bosch Platinum (with the single electrode) in the 2.2 with good success. No gapping this plug, so no fuss to install. Priced pretty cheap too.

My vote is for an Impreza Outback Sport. To carry flowers, this small wagon is a good way to go.

The bore is the name given to the circular "hole" that the piston slides back and forth inside the caliper.

grossgary...........thanks for the advise about listening for light rapping or tapping noises. I will be sure to remember that, and listen for noises. Thanks again. Rooster2 (Larry)

I am unaware of a complete alternator rebuild kit being available for a Sub alternator, like the complete kit that you got for your Jeep. Without a complete rebuild kit, IMHO, it is not worth the time/money trying to chase down the individual rebuild parts to rebuild the alternator on your own, and only hope that you got the correct parts in your search process. In my opinion, you are far better off buying a rebuilt alternator, or getting a used one from a wrecking yard.

I feel your pain, and have a similar concern. I have a 99 OBW with about 175K on the odo. I had the tb, water pump, and front oil seal replaced upon buying the car used. It wasn't until reading this forum that I learned that I should have had the pulleys and tensioner replaced as well. No one said a thing about that, when I got the tb replaced. Now, I drive around with the scary thought of the tensioner going bad as yours did. Subaru dealers should do more at promoting pulley and tensioner replacement, when the tb is replaced. As mentioned in the previous post, your fiance's car motor may not be ruined. The tensioner broke at low rpm, and maybe did not taken out the valves. Replace the tensioner, and maybe the engine will run again.

Yes, I have been lubing the handle mechanism for some time now, however, I would really like to replace the handle. Like you say, the lube for a while, then wears off, and the rust returns again to bind up the handle from moving easily. Just a few minutes ago, I just removed the two 8MM bolts that secure the "handle plate" to the outside of the rear hatch door in order to remove the handle. Removing the bolts did nothing to loosen the handle from the hatch. I suspect that the vinyl cover on the inside of the hatch has to be removed to gain access to removing the handle. My dealer says they have a new handle in stock, but I want to see what needs to be done to R&R the old handle. Any advise would be appreciated on what to do.

Think I have the same problem on my 99 OBW, my squeeze release handle hasn't broken, however, with rust on the bracket, the handle won't spring retract after hand releasing the squeeze handle. Too much rust is binding things up. Is it simply a matter of buying/replacing the metal bracket which would include the squeeze handle? Looks like two 8MM headed bolts mount the bracket in place to the tailgate. Do the two license plate lamps mount to the bracket? Is the bracket an item that a dealer would typically keep in stock? Thanks for any advise. Update, I just telephoned the parts desk at my local Subie dealer. They want $45 and change for a new "handle." They do carry the part in stock. Parts guy refused to give me the part number, said the dealer owner has new policy of not releasing part numbers over the phone. Guess they don't want me shopping the part number over the internet.

Nothing sweeter then finding success. I don't think any boot remanant particles will cause any trouble even if they entered the combustion chamber. They will simply burn away and be gone. There would not even be enough carbon particles remaining to be an issue. Again, "CONGRATS" on a job well done!

Agree with Dave. Old plugs I pull are white now are whitish. I am guessing that the hotter spark in today's plugs cause this. I don't think you have anything to worry about.

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm, just love the tongue in cheek humor. Saturday Night Live is looking for a new writer, you should apply!

If I were fathom a guess, I think you would be happier with affirmative posts on a WRX/STI forum, or a Honda "ricer' forum where all the talk is how to add more performance with after market parts. IMO, the USMB forum is for people who drive Subies as daily transportation on constrained budgets. Their motive for being on this forum is to seek advise to keep their used cars running with "do it yourself repair and maintenance," because it seems like most USMB members drive Subies with well over 100K miles on the odo. Members here are very loyal to Subaru, and feel they are driving a great car for the money. Maybe now, you can understand why affirmative posts don't reside here.

Here is another idea............break off the ceramic top portion of the installed spark plug. This should give you more room to work inside the spark plug "hole." With the added work space, use a wire brush connected to a drill with a right angle connection to permit entry into the "hole." See if you can grind out the remnant of the spark plug boot. As I posted before, you may need to loosen motor mounts to jack up the side of the motor to gain better better working access and visibility. Man I feel your frustration. We have all been there one time or another. At times, I have spewed out all the four letter swear/cuss words that I could think of, and even invented some new ones along the way. When I reach that point, I know it is time to take a break and emotionally cool down, and come back later to work on the car, before I really do something stupid in anger. Just keep at it, and you will find your way to success. Don't give up and spend big bucks to have someone else relieve you of frustration. Keep talking with us here, we will help you get through this.

Would it help to loosen motor mounts, then jack up the engine on the side that you are working on to give better visibility and access to the spark plug hole? If so, maybe use a propane torch to burn out the rubber insert? Would cutting the rubber with an exacto knife be of any help?

I can't imagine anything other than using a 5/8" socket, as you have been doing. Try using other size deep well sockets, see if that might works. Keep us posted on what you finally remove. I am curious to know.

There are auto shops that specialize in tinting window. Tints can be purchased in different shades of darkness. Look in the telephone Yellow Pages under auto accessories. A listing should be found. Give a call to learn cost.

LOL LOL the Billy Mays comment is really funny!!!!!!

I have used Seafoam as an additive to the engine oil and gas tank with good results. As an additive, I have always thought of the product as a detergent agent meant to clean off engine deposits. I am not familiar with Seafoam trans tune, but if it is like their other products, the detergent property would not be something that I would leave in my trany for a lengthy period of time. That could conceiveably create problems. If it were me, I don't think I would use this product. Suggest doing three drain and fills, (with some short driving between drain and fills) with new ATF. This is what I have done with both of my Subies to produce clean ATF on the dip stick rag.

Another thing, I believe the 91 had a external transmission filter which can clog up, be sure to get a new filter. I had a 91 Leggie wagon, with the automatic transmission, it does not have an external transmission filter, simply the screen just inside the pan. External AT spin on filters started on the 99 model for the U.S. model.

Like to hear good news. Glad you got your car back on the road again.

From what you have described, the car sounds more like a $500 "mechanic's special." Asking $1400 or $1500 sounds unreasonable. I owned a 91 Leggie wagon, so I know quite well what you are looking at. With that high millage, I wouldn't trust the automatic transmisson to go many more miles. Suggest you pass on this car at that high price, and look else where for a nice Subie. As someone else posted here, there are nicer and newer used Subies available for under $2,000. If you have never owned a Subie, you will read a lot of testimonials here about what great cars they are for reliable service, plus their motors are easy to work on, when they do need some attention. They are much easier to work on, when compared to a Honda or Toyota.

"suddenly turned brown" surprises me. In my experience ATF turns brown on a gradual basis over time and miles driven. Any chance you let someone drive your Subie without your supervision, like a teenage boy, who drove it like a maniac, and over heated the trany fluid?