Rooster2
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for what it is worth, I have both a 98 and 99 OBWs. The 98 is the Limited model, and it is considerable quiter then the regular optioned 99. My guess is that the 98 has more sound deadening built into the car at time of manufacturer. I carry a piece of carpeting that I place on top of the plastic sheet that sits on top of the car's interior carpeting in the 99. The extra piece of carpeting does help dampen the noise some what. Yea, others here are bringing up ideas of bad wheel bearings, etc, but I will stick with the theory that Subaru does not add much sound deadening material in their standard OBW. Enjoy your car, it will give you a lot of good service, and yes the AWD is a real blessing on bad snowy days.
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If it were me, I would take four cans of "fix a flat" to inflate the tires, and seal tire leaks, then top off with air from a small electric tire inflater powered by the cig lighter. You will need to drive the car to get the fix a flat product to seal leaks. This is easier then swapping out wheels. Like said by someone, this will help you get the car on a flat bed trailor / flat bed tow truck, or drive at least a short distance.
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Yes, Sears is really owned by K-Mart, I was aware of that. However, Sears began calling all their battery line, including cheapies, "Die Hard," years before K-Mart entered the scene. I am still amazed that K-Mart came out of bankruptcy, and then within a year purchased Sears. Where did they get the capital, or credit rating to be able to do that? Yes, it was called a "merger", but K-Mart calls the shots for Sears, so you can tell that they bought Sears.
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The Leggies built during the 95-99 run are all the same series. Body parts should interchange. Bumper and hood should be no problem. However, check the mounting holes for the grill to see if they are the same on both grills. I say this, because I once bought a grill for a 93 Leggie to put on my 91 Leggie. Size was the same, but mounting holes on the grills were different.
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I am getting older at age 64, but I can remember 25 to 30 years back when Sears made a big splash introducing their Die Hard batteries. It was their top of the line, and quickly gained a reputation as an outstanding battery that performed well for a long time. Then.............over the years the Sears marketing people got their way, and started labeling every Sears battery, even their cheapies, as "Die Hards." That is why you see Die Hards with color names like Gold, Silver, etc. It is really too bad. Sears had a superior product with their original Die Hards, but not now.
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New antennas are inexpensive, so it is worth a try. If you buy a new antenna, make sure the base of the new antenna is the right size to fit into existing mounting hole where current antenna resides, as not all antennas have the same size diameter base. Usually import cars have a small size base. Sometimes, the antenna display in a store will have antennas that are advertised to fit imports. Also, check to see that the signal carrying plug (connector) is the right size to insert into the antenna port on the back of your radio.
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I like and use Seafoam, and as you say, it is more of a solvent. It has merit when added to the oil or the gas. However, I don't think using as you have suggested in your AT is a good idea. Your AT is designed to work with ATF, and I don't think Seafoam is promoted as a product to add to your AT, let alone have the property to "scrub" fine metal particles from your trany's internals. If I had your situation, I would be inclined to add, then drive a little, and drain ATF to your trany three or four times to get the trany fluid as clean as possible. Then leave well enough alone. You have already said that your trany works great, so if it ain't broke don't fix it. There is a fine mesh screen that you can change upon dropping the pan on the AT, but I would not recommend doing that. I have never seen a screen block any metal grit, let alone the fine particles that you have described. Also, resealing the pan is very difficult, and still presents potential for fluid leaks.
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I am no expert on abs systems, however, from my own experience on my 99 OBW with abs, I used a "one man" bleeder unit last summer to put in fresh Dot 3 brake fluid. All went well, with the car stopping well ever since. I am not aware of anything to bleed on the abs system itself. To me, it sounds like your brake job is finished.
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With all that is written here about swapping an older 2.2 into a 2.5, a friend of mine is considering a swap. He sent me the following: Many states don't have many concerns with putting a newer engine into an older vehicle as long as the vehicle can pass emissions per the year of the engine. Most of the state DMV people I've talked to (CA & NV) won't allow an older engine in a newer vehicle. If they'd let it, there would be a LOT of cars out there with 1967 engines installed (no emissions requirements at all). Actually this is covered in EPA rules, not state rules. EPA allows engine swaps as long as the engine is the same or larger displacement and is from the same or newer model year vehicle. It also has to be installed with ALL emissions equipment intact and operational. As long as these guidelines are met, the swap would be legal. I guess the trick is, not to divulge to the authorities checking emissions that you have indeed installed an older, smaller motor to be in violation of EPA rules. However, even if authorities looked under the hood, they would be hard pressed to tell the difference that a 2.2 has been installed in a car originally fitted with a 2.5.
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It has been about 1 year now, and 10 thousand miles later. The Trans-X is still working. No more problem with Trany delayed forward engagement. I would not recommend down shifting from 3 to 2 to slow the car down. Yes, an automatic transmisson will do this, but it is far better, and less expensive to replace brake pads sooner for slowing/stopping, then to replace drive train components that have failed because of added driving stress and wear.
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IMO, if buying new, and comparing Subie 4 vs 6 cylinder motors, I would go with the 4 cylinder. The 4's run well enough with good power. However, if buying used, I would consider the 6 cylinder. It uses more gas driving around town, and spark plugs are nasty to change, yet it is a very nice motor. So, if the price is right, the six cylinder would be a good buy.