Rooster2

I don't have an answer. However, since there is a specialized Ca engine, you probably need to stay with that type of engine only. Probably difficult for anyone to tell you the differences between the Federal version vs the California version.

To my knowledge only 99 and 00 Leggie models with Auto tranny had the delayed forward gear engagement problem. The 2001 model you are considering should not have this problem. Head gasket problems were much diminished in cars built after 2000. Yes, there can be some coolant weep, but this can be fixed with Subaru Coolant Conditioner. It is basically a stop leak product. Best to put this car up on a lift to look for rust problems. Chicago winter salted streets takes a rusting toll on all cars. As pointed out, if you have no evidence of a recent timing belt replacement, then a new belt should be installed. Otherwise, if the belt breaks, the valves are bent and ruined, and that becomes an expensive repair.

Well at least you found the answer to why the motor over heats. For what it is worth, when swapping in a Subie motor, you don't need to open the AC system. The compressor can be moved out of the way, when pulling the engine.

Not sure on 205/60-15 will fit. It will be tight. What does fit is 215X70/15, which I have on my 99 OBW, also, I have a 98 OBW with 205/65/15, which fit with no rub.

"Thanks for your ideas. I will test the head gaskets (compression) for sure." Unlike other cars, Subarus with a bad head gasket will not have any compression issue, or mixture of oil in the coolant, or coolant in the oil. The head gasket breaches between the exhaust, and the coolant. Result is hot exhaust gas enters the cooling system to cause engine over heating. It is not a constant problem at first. Car engine can idle all day, and not over heat, but stress the head gasket with a run on a highway, or climb steep hills, and the breach will open to cause rapid over heating. I have had this happen on all three Subarus that I have owned. Your 2.2 motor is not prone to blowing a head gasket, but it can happen. The 2.2 motor in my 91 Legacy did just that. I hope the motor in your car has not been seriously over heated a number of times. If so, the over heating limits the life of the motor. As mentioned earlier seeing bubbles in the rad over flow tank when over heating is a sure fire way to confirm bad head gaskets. The bubbles is/are the exhaust gas that has gotten into the cooling system. If head gasket breach confirmed, I have read where guys have removed the thermostat, and open the bleeder screw on top of the radiator to bleed off the exhaust gas. Doing this will reduce over heating, and let you drive the car some, until you either repair the head gaskets, or swap in a replacement motor. Just be sure to top off the radiator coolant to keep the system full, when the system gets low from trickling out.

Should it happen again, check the radiator over flow container. If there are bubbles in the tank, then it is a sure sign of a bad head gasket. What ever you do, don't drive it when the engine is over heating. It will destroy the motor. Suspect previous owner knew of this problem prior to selling the car to you. Ask the previous owner, maybe you can get some restitution.

Post us back the results of using MMO. Thanx................Rooster2

I swear by Marvel Mystery Oil. The product has been around forever. Contains a lot of detergent to do some good cleaning and lubing, and will help your lifters. Recommend adding a can to new oil & filter. Drive a week or two, then change oil again. It has thin viscosity, so use 10W - 40 weight oil with the Marvel. I have a 95 motor in my wife's 98 OBW. I use either 10W- 30W, or 10W - 40W oil. I am old school, so never took to the idea of using thin oil in the zero to 5 weight. I like the idea of thicker viscosity for better lubbing. The thin oil is just to marginally better to increase gasoline miles per gallon.

Yea, I can see how that can work. I use a large C-clamp to get the job done.

had same problem prolly 15 years back. Was told the same nonsense that motor would have to be replaced. Not true, don't iknow how shop exactly repaired it, but remember they did use Locktite to prevent it coming apart again. Never had any trouble with the issue after that.

How do you operate a caulk gun to compress the piston??

+1 on Lucky Texan's post. I had the crank position sensor go bad. It did throw a code, that the parts store got a read out on. Bought a new sensor, had a devil of a time replacing the sensor, as old one was so corroded in place. Practically had to drill it out. New one fixed the problem immediately.

Suspect a bad head gasket. The 2.2 motor is not known for having a head gasket problem, but it does happen. I had a 91 Leggie with the 2.2 that developed bad head gaskets. Best tool for diagnosing a bad head gasket on a Subie is to look for air bubbles in the radiator over flow container, when temp starts to rise. If you see that, it is a sure sign of bad HGs. Problem is caused by bad HG allowing exhaust gas to enter the cooling system at the breach, thus causing the over heating. So, in this case, there will not be a mixture of oil in the coolant, or coolant in the oil.. After market coolant or oil additive products to fix bad HGs, will not work in a Subaru.

+1, I have had my share of poorly rebuilt half shafts over the years. I too, suspect a bad half shaft.

I think all WRXs have had turbo motors from day one of US introduction. Like you say, someone may have installed a non turbo in the 02 WRX. Posting some motor pixs to us on the forum may help identify what motor you have. There will also be some motor ID stamped into the top of the block to help identify the motor. Helping us with more info, is the best way for us to be able to help you.

Buy both, install one, return the other for a refund.

If a master cylinder goes bad, you get PLENTY of warning. IMO, you will slowly notice extra stopping distance, when applying the brakes, and probably some soft pedal. There will be no catastrophic failure, so no need to worry about that. I thought stealership greed was an American problem, but guess greed is a universal human problem that can be encountered anywhere, even in Canada. If you have a slight weeping of oil, I would not worry about it. In fact, it is probably not oil, but coolant. Subaru sells a stop leak product, they call call coolant conditioner, that should fix the problem. This is a pretty common problem. Nothing to be concerned about. You can order the conditioner on line, and so avoid the stealership. From the line of crap they shoveled at you, I would avoid the place as much as possible.

Since the 2.2 was swapped in to replace the original 2.5, I bet the radiator was replaced at the same time. I had to do exactly that when I replaced my 2.5 with a 2.2 in my 98 Outback. My wife "cooked" the 2.5, that it so badly over heated, and caused the radiator to leak. I wouldn't be concerned about model numbers. Simply order a radiator to fit your 97 Outback. It is the size that matters, so needs to be a specific size designed to fit your Subaru mounting bracket. It is the bolt holes that need to line up to attach the radiator to the car. Dosn't matter if it is the 2.2 or 2.5 motors, both use the same radiator. Replacement radiators may state that they are designed for both auto and 5 speed trannys. If you get one of those, you won't be hooking up any auto tranny coolant lines that are built into the radiator. The 5 speed does not use any radiator cooling, like the auto does. Pretty much figure on a replacement radiator manufactured in China, no matter who sells it. Fortunately, they have a good reputation for quality. Yes, they will have the plastic end caps, but they seem to work okay.

Have only heard good things about the 3.6. Maybe only negative is that the engine is pretty well crammed in under the hood, so not much room to work on anything.

Yea, injectors can get gummed up, resulting in a poor spray pattern, or refuse to spray. Suggest you add Techron, or SeaFoam to the gas tank. Both are good detergent cleaners, and will clean your injectors quite well. Techron is my product of choice. I know it works well cleaning injectors.

Yea, I have had radiator trouble in the past. Often it is the plastic that goes bad, and can't be fixed. Fortunately, replacement radiators are only around $100, and easily installed in a Subie.

I would not be concerned about the thickness of rear rotors. They never seem to wear out. I have 235K miles on my 99 OBW, and the rotors still look good. Most of the braking action of the car is at the front wheels, so rear brakes last a long long time. If the rotors look good, don't worry about it, just drive on.

I think your problem is incompatibility of the WRX engine with the engine wiring and electronics with your 99 model. I have a 99 Leggie, and had to replace the motor several years back. After research on this forum, I was advised to only install a 2.2, or a 2.5 motor from model years 95-99. A WRX motor is from a later model year Subaru from the early 2000+ years. Converting the wiring and electronics is going to be difficult. You will need to find someone who has made the WRX conversion to tell you what can be done. Whoever sold you the WRX motor should have warned you of the compatibility problem. Thinking further, I bet the WRX motor is turbocharged, 99 OEM motor is not. This creates further wiring and electronics issues that are not compatible.

The O rings are easy to replace. The parts stores sell O rings in a kit containing difference size rings. Easy enough to size up old vs new to install. If you have not done this before, let us know, so we can advise on how to recharge the system. There is more to it, then just adding refrigerant.

Suggest you look long and hard for a vacuum leak. That whistle sound may be telling you there is a vac leak. A vac leak will indeed cause a poor idle, like what you are experiencing.